Bow or Transom Trolling Motor?

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Azdesert

Active member
Joined
Oct 8, 2023
Messages
31
Reaction score
28
I'm getting ready to purchase a Trolling Motor and would like to see the thoughts from others.

The motor will be going on a 13" 4" Gregor. The plan is to use the boat on various lakes in my area. Many of these lakes are on a Reservation with no docks and really no ramp, just an area with enough room to get called a launch. All of the Reservation lakes are electric only. The area is in the mountains and is subject to high winds that can catch you by surprise at times, most of these lakes are small in size, but still big enough when the wind kicks up. I have a really bad back so that plays a major role into the choice as well.

I was all set to pull the trigger on a Ulterra because the auto deploy is a must for me, so other models are not really in the running. I don't think I need 80lbs of thrust, but I'm fine with it for those times I might get caught in those winds. One of the problems is your choice is a 45" or 60" shaft length. 45" might be a bit on the small side. Another Gregor owner has a Minn Kota with a 54" and told me that he wished it was longer. A 60" shaft represents a 72" Motor ~ thats almost half the boat when stowed. 80lbs when in anchor mode on that little boat will provide a bit much power and might not be the most pleasent, getting overpowered corrections. Minn Kota told me to scale down on the remote but it still might be too much power and could cause someone standing to loose there balance?

My other option is a transom mount with a Auto Boat on it. I don't know a lot about Auto Boat on a Transom and am currently awaiting a return phone call on some questions. The Auto Boat adds some GPS functions to a Transom mount, slick little on. Auto Boat only works on a limited number of 12V motors so I would be at 55lbs with a Minn Kota.

I am concerned about both launching and recovering with a Bow mount as my only real means of power - with my back rowing isn't much of a option. I'm not wild about a Bow mount that takes up so much area for those days I'm on waters that I can use the outboard. I can not turn and run a transom mount all day, so the Auto Boat is a must. Besides I want GPS stuff with either. I am at the point in mods on the boat that I have to make a decision. Fishing will be Multi-species.

So finally off to the questions: Thoughts on which will provide me with the best set-up. Is that bow mount on getting in and out going to be an issue or am I over thinking things? My back plays a huge role in all this, it will keep me off the water more times then I can get out and I need a set-up that is super back friendly. What do you recommend and thanks in advance for the insight.
 
Typically a bow mount troller is best angled to one side or the other so it roughly follows the gunnels when stowed and stays out of the way. It'll limit you to getting in and out of one side of the bow, but for the most part is unobtrusive.

A 45" shaft would be more than enough on that boat, no need for anything longer.

You are 100% right that beaching and loading with a bow mount is very difficult. Here's a little outside of the box thinking, why not get something like a Powerdrive and mount it on the back? Some compromises would need to be made, spot lock would likely only work well with the stern facing into the wind, so you'll have to fish off the back. You'll have to be careful to not take waves over the transom. But it could be done.
 
Honestly, from your post...you need both !! Steering is much better with a bow mount, but having a transom mount can be very handy at times!! Transom mounts are easy to fold up and deploy so a power deploy would not ve necessary. Many transom mounts are availiable used, do to more popular bow mounts..
 
I am not able to run two motors due to regulatory restrictions or that would be the route I would go, I think that would take care of my concerns.
I'm sort of surprised I have not heard anything back from TinyBoat on the AutoBoat system. I am sort of leaning that way, of course this is due to the fact that I have Lithiums being delivered in the next couple days and the Aluminum decking I ordered for making the bow ready for the Ulterra should be ready before the end of the week. Something about a horse and cart comes to mind.
As you can see I am at that decision point and thank you for your insights in trying to help me make the right choice.
 
I have physical limitations also and use a Ulterra, when approaching the bank I stow the motor and drift into the bank. I also will approach the bank at an angle and turn just as I stow and the boat goes sideways against the bank. It is better for me to step out of the boats side than off the front. As far as the thrust 80lb is very good for those windy conditions, I would not want any less. The shaft length needs to be so that the prop is completely under the water but not much more, just so there is no cavitation. A longer shaft that is standing way above the boat serves no purpose.
 
Your kidding.....you can't use two electric motors?? What state do you live in?? No matter how many trolling motors you run, you won't go faster just better control !! I use a little 2.2 hp gas motor on the back and a bow mount electric, they work awesome together !!
 
The approach sideways is a good tip. Honestly I didn't even think about doing it that way. Does it seem to affect the retractment of the motor at all with forward speed? The lakes here are all reservoirs and most are rocky so that concerns me on having to run the motor up to a point where I can beach the boat. Most have a pretty good drop not far from the bank, but in low water years that is not the case at all. We have seen far more of those low water conditions in recent years, to the point where getting the boat into the water is not even possible for some.

I live in AZ, but the lakes I plan on fishing with the electric restrictions are on the Reservation where we spend our summers. Seems a little over the top to me that you can only have one electric motor on the boat. I'm guessing someone was under the misconception that additional motors means more speed? I really wish I could use two as that would be the setup for me. The tribe is very protective of the resources and understandably so but in some cases it is a bit over the top, IMO.
 
The approach sideways is a good tip. Honestly I didn't even think about doing it that way. Does it seem to affect the retractment of the motor at all with forward speed? The lakes here are all reservoirs and most are rocky so that concerns me on having to run the motor up to a point where I can beach the boat. Most have a pretty good drop not far from the bank, but in low water years that is not the case at all. We have seen far more of those low water conditions in recent years, to the point where getting the boat into the water is not even possible for some.

I live in AZ, but the lakes I plan on fishing with the electric restrictions are on the Reservation where we spend our summers. Seems a little over the top to me that you can only have one electric motor on the boat. I'm guessing someone was under the misconception that additional motors means more speed? I really wish I could use two as that would be the setup for me. The tribe is very protective of the resources and understandably so but in some cases it is a bit over the top, IMO.
The motor stows without any change in speed while the boat is moving, mine will auto shut off and stow when the stow button is pushed. Another useful feature when approaching the shore is to raise the motor by using the trim control, I raise it and watch and listen for the splash. I know then that the prop is breaking the surface. It still propels the boat but can work in very shallow water. I have a Tracker Grizzly with a flat bottom, I would think a V hull would actually ground before the prop would hit bottom. This is also handy when launching the boat, the trim returns to the position it was last trimmed to. All this makes it safe for the motor in the shallows, within reason. The Ulterra is a fantastic motor and with the Ipilot incredible.
 
The motor stows without any change in speed while the boat is moving, mine will auto shut off and stow when the stow button is pushed. Another useful feature when approaching the shore is to raise the motor by using the trim control, I raise it and watch and listen for the splash. I know then that the prop is breaking the surface. It still propels the boat but can work in very shallow water. I have a Tracker Grizzly with a flat bottom, I would think a V hull would actually ground before the prop would hit bottom. This is also handy when launching the boat, the trim returns to the position it was last trimmed to. All this makes it safe for the motor in the shallows, within reason. The Ulterra is a fantastic motor and with the Ipilot incredible.
You might be convincing me that the Ulterra is the way to go, getting a trolling motor shouldn't cause one so much consernation! I wasn't sure how the adjustment for motor depth worked so that helps me.
I got the lithiums for it yesterday, but the decking wasn't ready yet.
 
Gosh, this is the proverbial rock and a hard spot. The bow mount, IMO, will hands down work best for you out on the water. With no dock, it will be a problem if you intend to drive the boat up on the trailer. Even if you can beach the boat, how will you get it on the trailer. Soooo, for that a transom mount is preferred. Sounds to me like you may be forced towards the transom mount. Hope someone proves me wrong.
 
What about adding an electric winch on the trailer to pull boat onto trailer. A push pole onboard the boat will push you up onto shore those last few feet that a bow mount won't when beaching it.
 
I never drive the boat up on the trailer. My boat is 16' Tracker Grizzly and absolutely no need to drive the boat up on the trailer or the need for an electric wench. I launch the boat by backing into the water, then a push and off it goes. I have a rope tied to the front that I then pull the boat back to shore turn it side ways and step in. When loading I back the trailer into the water then give the boat a shove and when it clears the trailer pull it in between the guides, hook the wench up and crank it onto the trailer. If it's very windy I do not back into the water as far so the bunks contact sooner, still days I don't need to wench it at all except to secure it for travel. I see guys driving small boats up on their trailers and then need to jump over the side to get out or climb down on the trailer tongue, neither is a good thing with a bad back or bad knees. Larger boats with large motors need to be driven up on the trailer but the small reservoir boats with all electric do not.
 
I never drive the boat up on the trailer. My boat is 16' Tracker Grizzly and absolutely no need to drive the boat up on the trailer or the need for an electric wench. I launch the boat by backing into the water, then a push and off it goes. I have a rope tied to the front that I then pull the boat back to shore turn it side ways and step in. When loading I back the trailer into the water then give the boat a shove and when it clears the trailer pull it in between the guides, hook the wench up and crank it onto the trailer. If it's very windy I do not back into the water as far so the bunks contact sooner, still days I don't need to wench it at all except to secure it for travel. I see guys driving small boats up on their trailers and then need to jump over the side to get out or climb down on the trailer tongue, neither is a good thing with a bad back or bad knees. Larger boats with large motors need to be driven up on the trailer but the small reservoir boats with all electric do not.

All of my ramps have docks so I have never had this issue and yes, climbing over the bow after driving up on the trailer is a no go for me.

What you describe makes incredible sense and if I were the OP it would guide me to a bow mount TM.
 
I don't think I will have to drive the boat up on the trailer. I put Gator Glide on the bottom of the boat and replaced the bunks with redwood and topped them with HDPE, plus its a tilt trailer. I have taking the boat off and on, on dry land and it slides off and on very nicley, trying to set it up for those low water conditions and making things as easy as on me as I can. Plus the boat is so small. I have to add one more roller on the trailer and that part of the project is complete I think.

A freind who has fished the area his whole life highly reccomended nothing bigger then 14' because the ramps are so bad. With all the crap I want to stuff in the thing I really wish it was at least 18'.

I still haven't pulled the trigger on this yet, but I am back to leaning towards the Ulterra. I do appreciate all of you sharing your thoughts. Nothing beats being able to get some insight from those with experience. Thanks!
 
I never drive the boat up on the trailer. My boat is 16' Tracker Grizzly and absolutely no need to drive the boat up on the trailer or the need for an electric wench. I launch the boat by backing into the water, then a push and off it goes. I have a rope tied to the front that I then pull the boat back to shore turn it side ways and step in. When loading I back the trailer into the water then give the boat a shove and when it clears the trailer pull it in between the guides, hook the wench up and crank it onto the trailer. If it's very windy I do not back into the water as far so the bunks contact sooner, still days I don't need to wench it at all except to secure it for travel. I see guys driving small boats up on their trailers and then need to jump over the side to get out or climb down on the trailer tongue, neither is a good thing with a bad back or bad knees. Larger boats with large motors need to be driven up on the trailer but the small reservoir boats with all electric do not.
Depends on whether you can crank a winch or have the ability to pull...us guys with torn rotator cuffs have difficulty doing either !! Much easier for me to step out onto the dock rather than crank a winch. Gotta do whatever your body can do with least amount of pain..
 
When loading the boat, I back the trailer very close to the dock. I idle the boat until it is lined up and then give it a little throttle to ease it up on the trailer. Shut down, trim the motor up and step up onto the dock. Tighten the winch and pull off. Takes a minute or two, with no straining or acrobatics.

If the ramp doesn't have a dock, you have to climb over the front of the boat. I leave my tailgate down to make it easier and safer.
 
I ended up getting an Ulterra. Believe or not I ran across one on one of the fishing pages I watch. Brand new in the box never opened and I saved over $900, so the man upstairs was watching out for me....again! Now to put on the deck, mount it and finish up the battery installs. Thanks for all the responses!
 

Latest posts

Top