My Mirro Craft 14footer

[FormerParatrooper]

This is my 1979 14ft Mirro Craft F4604 Limelighter Resort. The outside was roller painted with Duralux boat paint, and the inside was done with Rustoleum spray paint. I wanted to get rid of that awful lime green color. I do not paint well, but I think for my purposes this is coming along. Boat, trailer, motor (1967 Johnson 9.5) and a trolling motor (Minn Kota PowerDrive 665) set me back a whopping $700.

Future plans are too add a removable floor, add carpet to the seats and a small deck from the front seat to the bow. I added a piece of ¼ inch thick aluminum plate to the transom where the motor sits.

I will be running wire thru the gunwales for the lights, replacing the existing wire there that is way too thin for a 12v marine battery. I think the best place to put the battery is in front of the forward seat where the previous owner had it. From the bow to the battery will be a short run for the lights and then a longer run of either aluminum conduit or “smurf” tube under a removable floor to the transom for the trolling motor.

Trailer will also be getting a new look. The existing side lights are broken and the rear lights seem dim. I will be using a kit to do the new lights with new wire. According to a rep from EZLoader, the trailer is a 1978, 15 U 1650. Already had bearing buddies on it and they seem to work well. Some surface rust on the underside of trailer, some elbow grease and repainting will take care of that.

Any faults in the above ideas or something I need to rethink?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

If the transom is weak putting the 1/4" aluminum is just a Band-Aid. It should be fixed properly.

 

[Al U Minium]

looks Great!

 

[FormerParatrooper]

If the transom is weak putting the 1/4" aluminum is just a Band-Aid. It should be fixed properly.

The aluminum there seems good. I think the issue was the rotted wood behind in the transom. There was basically just a shell and nothing to support it. The motor mounts had worn into the aluminum and left the circle marks.

I have given thought to just removing the aluminum part of the transom and replacing it with some good wood. Would that create an issue? Given I would use a marine grade wood and treat it so it would last.

 

[FormerParatrooper]

looks Great!

Thank you, I appreciate that.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Replacing the transom wood is the proper repair. You don't need marine plywood any exterior grade plywood ACX, BCX CCX even CDX will do. There are several ways to seal the wood.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I have given thought to just removing the aluminum part of the transom and replacing it with some good wood. Would that create an issue?[/quote]
I don't understand what aluminum part your thinking of removing.

 

[jeepola]

Looks really good so far. I used Duralux on my rig as well, and was really impressed with how smooth the finish came out - as several folks that have seen it in person have asked if I applied the paint with a spray gun.
Anyway, nice job!!

 

[FormerParatrooper]

I have given thought to just removing the aluminum part of the transom and replacing it with some good wood. Would that create an issue?

I don't understand what aluminum part your thinking of removing.[/quote]

I am referring to the aluminum "cap" that the wood fits into on the transom. If I removed that cap and secured what would be exposed wood in the same manner as the cap already is, would that be ok? Or is the aluminum cap also providing a measure of strength that the wood would not alone?

 

[FormerParatrooper]

Looks really good so far. I used Duralux on my rig as well, and was really impressed with how smooth the finish came out - as several folks that have seen it in person have asked if I applied the paint with a spray gun.
Anyway, nice job!!

Duralux seems easy to work with, and I say that as someone with very limited practice in painting.

I appreciate the compliment as well.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I have given thought to just removing the aluminum part of the transom and replacing it with some good wood. Would that create an issue?

I don't understand what aluminum part your thinking of removing.

I am referring to the aluminum "cap" that the wood fits into on the transom. If I removed that cap and secured what would be exposed wood in the same manner as the cap already is, would that be ok? Or is the aluminum cap also providing a measure of strength that the wood would not alone?[/quote]
If the transom wood is bad replace it. Leave everything else as the factory made it.

 

[FormerParatrooper]

I have given thought to just removing the aluminum part of the transom and replacing it with some good wood. Would that create an issue?

I don't understand what aluminum part your thinking of removing.

I am referring to the aluminum "cap" that the wood fits into on the transom. If I removed that cap and secured what would be exposed wood in the same manner as the cap already is, would that be ok? Or is the aluminum cap also providing a measure of strength that the wood would not alone?

If the transom wood is bad replace it. Leave everything else as the factory made it.[/quote]


I shall leave it as made. And when I found the wood was bad, I looked around for best ways to protect the wood and came across this forum and YOUR post about old times mix. I am glad you posted that because I was initially going to use some Thompson wood seal. But I thought there may be something better considering the application.

I see you are in Illinois as well, a few hours north of me in. Down in Peoria here.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Howdy neighbor.

 

[FormerParatrooper]

Howdy neighbor.

You ever get to Central Illinois for fishing?

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Howdy neighbor.

You ever get to Central Illinois for fishing?

I'm not really a fisherman I have a jon boat for duck hunting. That is until I tore up my shoulder a few years ago.

 

[FormerParatrooper]

Howdy neighbor.

You ever get to Central Illinois for fishing?

I'm not really a fisherman I have a jon boat for duck hunting. That is until I tore up my shoulder a few years ago.

A tore up shoulder makes shotgunning a little more painful than it needs be. I hope you can get back to it soon.

 

[FormerParatrooper]

I am getting ready to work on making the floor. I want a flat surface of course, and do not want to add a lot of weight. Some ideas I have is to use 1/4 inch thick plastic sheets supported by aluminum unistrut pieces, or to use 11/32 plywood supported by 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 laminate wood sticks. Wood of course will be treated with old timers. While doing the floor will also put a "deck" from front bench seat to bow with a door to access the battery. No plans to use the "deck" for standing, just as a place to keep battery protected and mount trolling motor.

Has anyone tried the plastic method? Are there better ideas to keep weight down?