need some help with 93 tracker tx17 (buck rivets)

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sb220

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powhatan va
ive torn the boat down but found some spider web cracks from a few buck rivets that are dripping when i put some water in the hull.
To access both sides to drill out the ends and patch ive got to remove some stringers. Having never worked with buck rivets...is the best way to remove them to just put an angle grinder to the rivet on the inside of the boat and punch it out?

For ordering new rivets does anyone know if these guys are 3/16" or 1/4" diameter?... and how long of a rivet I should order?

Thanks!
 

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not stringers...ive got to remove some of the ribs that are buck (or brazier?) riveted to the hull
 
To remove a rivet, some use a good sharp wood chisel and hit it with a hammer and shear off the tail then punch the rest thru. Once everything is tight as you can get it, this is where sealants like " gluvit" come into play. Thoroughly clean the interior then coat the seems and rivets to seal everything up.
 
To remove a rivet, some use a good sharp wood chisel and hit it with a hammer and shear off the tail then punch the rest thru. Once everything is tight as you can get it, this is where sealants like " gluvit" come into play. Thoroughly clean the interior then coat the seems and rivets to seal everything up.
thanks.
im guessing the rivet diameter are 3/16 or 1/4, but im really unsure of how long of a rivet i should use.

Im guessing the thickness of the hull and rib flange combined equals 1/4"? how much longer of a buck/brazier rivet should i order?
 
Pop one out to get a better measure on how much material your going thru. I would add a quarter inch to that length, can' t see being a little longer a problem.
 
I just removed a bunch of these a couple days ago. The angle iron I could tell was going to scuff the boat up something awful so I gave that idea up. Drilled through the heads, which was a piece of cake, but they still were stuck good. Ended up using a chisel on them, so maybe drilling was not needed. I like my wood chisels though so used a cold chisel instead.

Took me about an hour to remove a couple dozen rivets and the rotten transom wood. As for thickness, all I can say is my rivets are closer to 1/8 or 3/16. I'm wanting to reassemble with carriage bolts and may end up having to use 1/4" which will mean I have to make the holes bigger. As for thickness of the boat itself, my light little 12' Elgin is quite thin. Like tin can thin. Yours may well be thicker. This boat also weighs less than 100 lbs. Hope this helps some.
 
thanks.
im guessing the rivet diameter are 3/16 or 1/4, but im really unsure of how long of a rivet i should use.

Im guessing the thickness of the hull and rib flange combined equals 1/4"? how much longer of a buck/brazier rivet should i order?

The common rule of thumb for solid rivets is length equals the thickness of the material being joined together plus 1.5 times the rivet's diameter.
 
The rivet length mentioned above is dead on!

After bucking it should be 1/2 D in height and 1 1/2 D in width. Just make sure you seat the head with pressure and drive the buck tail until you have a nice permanent rivet. Sometimes it’s hard to get perfect buck tails in tight areas.

Wet install the rivets with 3M 2200 if you want the best method.
 
The rivet length mentioned above is dead on!

After bucking it should be 1/2 D in height and 1 1/2 D in width. Just make sure you seat the head with pressure and drive the buck tail until you have a nice permanent rivet. Sometimes it’s hard to get perfect buck tails in tight areas.

Wet install the rivets with 3M 2200 if you want the best method.
did you mean 4200 or 5200? i know 4200 is supposed to have a little more flex. which one is best for the rivets?
 
Sorry about that. 3M 5200 is what I use.

If you ever glued something together with it, and then tried to remove or separate the two parts, you will understand how strong 3M 5200 is.
 
Agree on the 5200. Make sure to wipe the excess immediately after installation, as it's hard to remove later.
 
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