Upgrade passive livewell help

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llbaker2
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by llbaker2 »

I recently bought my first boat. I got an aluminum 1752 flat bottom side console jon (Blazer Jet boat). Boat has two livewells, one under passenger and one under helm seats. Livewells don’t have any kind of pump/aerator. They have a single standpipe in the center of each tank. Has a plug that you can insert into pipe to block flow. Wells do not have any kind of pump or aerator. Seems like water would get hot and low on oxygen after a while. Guess you could pour a bucket full of water into wells every once in a while to refresh but was thinking might be better to upgrade and add a pump and timer and/or an aerator. Looking for guidance on how to go about doing this. Do you just insert a pump into the standpipe and put pump on timer or what? If you insert pump into standpipe how does the well drain? Lots of info on how to replace existing pumps etc. but can’t find much on how to upgrade a simple gravity fed passive well to one with pump and timer. Heck I don’t know if this is even worth the effort. Seems like it would be good to pump fresh water into well every few min to control temp and aeration. Would appreciate your input.
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onthewater102
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by onthewater102 »

I'm not quite visualizing what your setup looks like, but if I understand it doesn't have a drain line connected to below the waterline of the boat?

Normally livewells have a drain that can be plugged (or closed remotely) but otherwise allows the livewell to fill to the level of the water displaced by the boat and at least one pump to draw water into the livewell, possibly a second to aerate the water within the livewell. There is usually an overflow drain toward the top to allow the pump to cycle every so often with the drain plug inserted in order to cycle/cool/aerate the water.
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Scott F
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by Scott F »

There are several YouTube videos about putting livewells in boats. Maybe something there will help you.

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llbaker2
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by llbaker2 »

Livewell.jpg
onthewater102 wrote:I'm not quite visualizing what your setup looks like, but if I understand it doesn't have a drain line connected to below the waterline of the boat?

Normally livewells have a drain that can be plugged (or closed remotely) but otherwise allows the livewell to fill to the level of the water displaced by the boat and at least one pump to draw water into the livewell, possibly a second to aerate the water within the livewell. There is usually an overflow drain toward the top to allow the pump to cycle every so often with the drain plug inserted in order to cycle/cool/aerate the water.

As I said above my well has a single inlet/outlet with plug, a short tube (3/4 inch?) located at bottom center. Tube exits thru bottom of boat. There are no other openings other than the lid. It fills to level of displaced water when you pull the plug. There are no pumps/aerators or overflow drains. There in lies the problem. I would like to add a pump/timer to add fresh water every so often. Picture of well with standpipe below.
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richg99
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by richg99 »

I am not sure how this will work with your configuration...but.

I belong to our local bass club. It is a group of 25/40 old guys and we fish the small lakes within our subdivision. In order to compete in the club tournaments, I needed a live well in my tinny. I never before owned a live-well equipped boat.

I took a large Walmart plastic container. it is about 24 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches high. I did not want to drill any holes in my boat.

On a trip with a striper guide a few years ago, I noted that his large live well was not really connected to the boat except at the floor. He filled, and emptied, his live well with a large bilge pump. I use an 1100 GPH pump. He attached a large PVC tube. His pump was wired into a switch controlled outlet.

To put water INTO the live-well, I drop the pump overboard and flip on the switch. The pump transfers water from the lake to the live well using its hose. When I want to EMPTY the live well, I hang the hose over the side and turn on the switch. The pump stays in the live well and pumps 98% of the water back over the side.

When I have fish in the live well, I just leave the pump on the bottom and run the pump, which acts as a re-circulating pump. I added a $10.00 battery operated aerator. When I start in the morning of a tournament, I fill the live well about half full. I add a bag of ice, being careful to NOT cut the bag open. I don't want the chlorine water to mix with the lake water. The frozen bag of ice keeps the water cool but doesn't dilute or poison the live well water.

If we catch more fish, I add water one more time.

That's it. If you check the internet, you will find a number of pro fishermen who caution to NOT add much additional lake water during the day. That water is warmer than the water you have in the well and defeats the purpose of the ice.

Hope this helps.
rich
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thedude
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by thedude »

Is the well right on front of your console? If so drill a hole between the console and the well to run power to a bilge pump (any basic switch will work). Connect the bilge to a hose and attach the hose to a one foot PVC pipe with holes drilled in it. Install the PVC pipe at the top of the well on the console wall. As long as the pipe is above the natural level of the well it will aerate the water.Image

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thedude
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by thedude »

Pic With a bait bucket. Cheap way to separate the livewell if large enough. Image

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llbaker2
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by llbaker2 »

thedude wrote:Is the well right on front of your console? If so drill a hole between the console and the well to run power to a bilge pump (any basic switch will work). Connect the bilge to a hose and attach the hose to a one foot PVC pipe with holes drilled in it. Install the PVC pipe at the top of the well on the console wall. As long as the pipe is above the natural level of the well it will aerate the water.Image
Sounds like a solid plan for aerating but on a hot summer day seems like it would be good to pump fresh water into livewell every once in a while to keep water temp down. Not sure how well that would work anyway due to high temp of surface water. Just a thought.

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llbaker2
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by llbaker2 »

richg99 wrote:I am not sure how this will work with your configuration...but.

I belong to our local bass club. It is a group of 25/40 old guys and we fish the small lakes within our subdivision. In order to compete in the club tournaments, I needed a live well in my tinny. I never before owned a live-well equipped boat.

I took a large Walmart plastic container. it is about 24 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches high. I did not want to drill any holes in my boat.

On a trip with a striper guide a few years ago, I noted that his large live well was not really connected to the boat except at the floor. He filled, and emptied, his live well with a large bilge pump. I use an 1100 GPH pump. He attached a large PVC tube. His pump was wired into a switch controlled outlet.

To put water INTO the live-well, I drop the pump overboard and flip on the switch. The pump transfers water from the lake to the live well using its hose. When I want to EMPTY the live well, I hang the hose over the side and turn on the switch. The pump stays in the live well and pumps 98% of the water back over the side.

When I have fish in the live well, I just leave the pump on the bottom and run the pump, which acts as a re-circulating pump. I added a $10.00 battery operated aerator. When I start in the morning of a tournament, I fill the live well about half full. I add a bag of ice, being careful to NOT cut the bag open. I don't want the chlorine water to mix with the lake water. The frozen bag of ice keeps the water cool but doesn't dilute or poison the live well water.

If we catch more fish, I add water one more time.

That's it. If you check the internet, you will find a number of pro fishermen who caution to NOT add much additional lake water during the day. That water is warmer than the water you have in the well and defeats the purpose of the ice.

Hope this helps.
rich
Your bilge pump idea sure beats my current bucket method (bail out about 1/2 to 3/4 of well water and refill with bails of fresh lake water every once in a while).

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llbaker2
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by llbaker2 »

My livewell fills by removing drain plug from 2 inch tall, 3/4 inch diameter pipe (not sure if its the right term but lets call it a standpipe) that extends thru bottom of boat (see pic above). When you remove the pug the well fills with water to level equal to water level outside of boat. My question is what happens to livewell water level when boat is on plane? Seems like (since boat is higher out of water when planing) that the water level would drop (unless you plugged the standpipe before going on plane). If this is the case then all you would have to do is get boat up on plane for a little while to drain old water and then when you come off plane the well would fill back up. Is this the way it works or am I missing something? Just trying to figure this out. Guess I could test it out and see what happens. Debating adding a pump/aerator.

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richg99
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by richg99 »

Aerator...As I mentioned above, I added a cheap battery operated "bubble/aerator."

It just hangs over the side of my container. The batteries have lasted through three... five-hour tournaments so far.

It's got to help. I haven't lost a fish since adding it.

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eshaw
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by eshaw »

Instead of plugging and unplugging your inlet for water you could install a shut off valve. I'm lucky, my boat is big enough to just stick my portable one in it. I built a portable one so I can also stick it in the back of my truck.

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thedude
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by thedude »

llbaker2 wrote:
thedude wrote:Is the well right on front of your console? If so drill a hole between the console and the well to run power to a bilge pump (any basic switch will work). Connect the bilge to a hose and attach the hose to a one foot PVC pipe with holes drilled in it. Install the PVC pipe at the top of the well on the console wall. As long as the pipe is above the natural level of the well it will aerate the water.Image
Sounds like a solid plan for aerating but on a hot summer day seems like it would be good to pump fresh water into livewell every once in a while to keep water temp down. Not sure how well that would work anyway due to high temp of surface water. Just a thought.
Freeze a few plastic water bottles and throw one in every hour of so. What exactly are you trying to keep alive? tournament fish? Long enough to decide if you caught enough fish to clean/eat? Minnows or shad?

eshaw
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by eshaw »

I'd like to know how to keep shad alive.

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onthewater102
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Upgrade passive livewell help

Post by onthewater102 »

That tube sticks up 2" off the bottom of the livewell? Is the diameter the same in the tube the whole way down? That tube shouldn't protrude above the bottom of the bait tank by any meaningful amount, there js no way for the tank to drain, let alone cycle water. Who built the boat?
I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.

1985 Bass Tracker III

For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

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