Looks like about 70% of the floor has been removed already. The transom shouldn't be too hard. I replaced one on my Lund Predator a couple years back. This one looks easier.
Been hemming and hawwing about buying a 1991 18ft Monark which needs a floor and probably a transom. Comes with a serviceable trailer but no motor. Price is at $500. Does it sound like a decent deal? Or would the costs outway any savings?
What I did when I replaced my transom was to build a drilling template. I used cutoffs from the 1 1/2 inch transom but you could use scrap 2x4's. Prior to placing transom clamp a 2x4 on the outside over hole/holes. Mark the 2x4 so that it can be placed in the same location once the transom boar...
Built one like it for my pontoon. It works great except when passing boats get it rocking and it splashes over the side. Trying to build some type of baffle now.
What hp motor do you plan to run? If it's a small engine I wouldn't bother trying to fit a board to the entire transom (top-bottom & side to side). Use marine plywood of correct thickness and match what original size was. It should be easier to slip under the transom cap than a full size board...
Looking for a project and found this tin boat. Looks like new floor/carpet/vinyl and some seats. =Does this boat need any support for the sides? It's 16 ft long and looks like some type of supports are needed..
After glueing together 1/2 in and 3/4 in marine plywood the foam template was used to draw transom on plywood. Cut out shape with power saws, treated with numerous coats of Thompsons.
This mulch was 80% of the transom. Don't know how it held the 60hp and 8 hp kicker. Lund makes good boats!!
Had to remove gunnels on both sides to remove tow eyes. Foam also needed to be removed and then replaced with Great Stuff.