Aluminum Versus Stainlees Steel?

2011 polarkraft outlander.
Fishing rod holders are bolted through a slotted channel. Aluminum drilled and tapped and secured with stainless steel bolts that have seized up. Best method to remove bolts?
Suggestions or remedies you've used to avoid future problems!
Thanks for solving.

Stainless bolt seized up in aluminum threads -- use an impact driver, heat, or both? The aluminum and stainless steel will expand at different rates. You could also try penetrating oil.

How to avoid in the future -- is the slotted track a T-track by any chance? If so, I would use it instead of a threading the bolts into aluminum.

Years back when I made my rod holder track system, I used SS screws and bolts but coated them lightly with moly grease. The tracks were aluminum with SS hardware holding things together. Sold the boat 8 years later with no sign of any corrosion.

Some anti-seize goes a long way.

I recently had the same issue on a boat that I recently bought. Cheap stainless self tapping screws and even a couple of zinc plated screws holding the front seat pedestals.

Like LDUBS said, an impact wrench works well for removal. It got everything but the two zinc screws. They required penetrating oil, plenty of hammer taps and finally a small pipe wrench to remove. Of course the deck had to come off to get the pipe wrench on them.

Use plenty of patience and they will eventually surrender.

Just to clarify, I wasn't talking about an impact wrench. I meant a manual impact driver like this:

Oh. I haven’t seen one of those in fifty years.

Still Afloat said:

Oh. I haven’t seen one of those in fifty years.

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Mine is a hand-me-down, so probably older than that. Every toolbox should have one.

LDUBS said:

Mine is a hand-me-down, so probably older than that. Every toolbox should have one.

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I wasn’t sure if you enjoy vintage tools or they or making a come-back.

My Dad had one but, I’m not sure what happened to it when we cleaned out their last house.

Still Afloat said:

I wasn’t sure if you enjoy vintage tools or they or making a come-back.

My Dad had one but, I’m not sure what happened to it when we cleaned out their last house.

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I didn't even know they had been out of use! Haha. It is a very useful tool for breaking free stuck fasteners -- without breaking things that you don't want to break.

They still make and sell those impact tools.

Still Afloat said:

Oh. I haven’t seen one of those in fifty years.

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Mandatory tool to work on 60s, 70s, 80s motorcycles.

Why they insisted on using Phillips head screws for all those side case covers I'll never know.

Deep creep by seaFoam getting it done today Oh ya had my Pittsburgh Allen wrenches from har frt but they didn't fail me.
Spell tried to insert Seafood for seafoam : )

That is a nice track system. Now that I see it I misunderstood your issue. If what is happening is what I think is happening, I would simply grease up the bolts before installing and maybe make it part of the annual maintenance.

Westr,
Look for backing nuts. If there, and if you can get to the backing nuts, use an impact gun on the nut from the bottom side. You may need an extension, a deep socket and a universal joint to get the right angle. Once the nuts are off, an impact should get the bolts out.

If the bolts are tapped with no backing nuts, try to lube top and bottom and heat. I heat with a pencil flame and then douse with WD40 for several cycles before putting the impact on it. Watch the flame! They usually come out if you are patient. Lots of heat + penetrating oil is what typically gets the worst ones out.

Worst case, I might drill them out and re-tap the next larger size.

My hammer-blow impact gets used VERY often!

LDUBS said:

Just to clarify, I wasn't talking about an impact wrench. I meant a manual impact driver like this:


View attachment 121892

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I have one of these and owned it for about 50 years or so, it works terrific!

I've been using this anti seize for many years. Learned of it when I had my sailboats. It's used in many places on a sailboat...especially standing rigging. I use it for ALL SS hardware and fasteners.

westr212 said:

Deep creep by seaFoam getting it done today Oh ya had my Pittsburgh Allen wrenches from har frt but they didn't fail me.
Spell tried to insert Seafood for seafoam : )

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I am in a daily fight with my spell checker, and I normally loose... I have to battle it constantly....wish I could figure out how to disconnect it !!

LDUBS said:

Just to clarify, I wasn't talking about an impact wrench. I meant a manual impact driver like this:


View attachment 121892

Click to expand...

I worked at a shop years ago that did a lot of heavy equipment and they had a 1" version of one of these. It had two long handles that one guy would hold, while another swung a 20lb sledgehammer at it. I have three in my tool box, a 1/4" (Napa), 3/8" (Snap On) and 1/2" (Proto) drive.

Seafarer said:

I worked at a shop years ago that did a lot of heavy equipment and they had a 1" version of one of these. It had two long handles that one guy would hold, while another swung a 20lb sledgehammer at it. I have three in my tool box, a 1/4" (Napa), 3/8" (Snap On) and 1/2" (Proto) drive.

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Better trust the guy swinging the sledge hammer.

Seafarer said:

I worked at a shop years ago that did a lot of heavy equipment and they had a 1" version of one of these. It had two long handles that one guy would hold, while another swung a 20lb sledgehammer at it. I have three in my tool box, a 1/4" (Napa), 3/8" (Snap On) and 1/2" (Proto) drive.

Click to expand...

Sounds like something the military would have for field use (no power).

They also had a huge 1" drive "impact" that was spring loaded. Pull on it like a huge torque wrench to load the spring and BANG, it fires and acts like an impact.

My father was an E8, Combat Engineer. So I grew up playing on equipment and in their shops (got to shoot a lot at their indoor range, too). I'm sure this kind of thing is not allowed these days. We're talking 40+ years ago...