1999 Crestliner Project

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have started working on the floors. It is much more painful then I anticipated. I do have the old flooring, but it is covered with the carpet, so taking accurate measurements of irregular shapes is difficult.

I am planning to use marine vinyl, so it is thinner then carpet, so all dimensions should be adjusted. And that is PITA. they were able to hide lots of irregularities with fluffy carpet that would be super visible with vinyl. So here I am cutting, fitting, cutting, measuring.
 

Attachments

  • 20241004_140305.jpg
    20241004_140305.jpg
    213.4 KB
  • 20241004_140256.jpg
    20241004_140256.jpg
    192.7 KB
I'm not sure if your questions were answered about the hoses and fittings.

I'd leave the rubber hoses be. The plastic ribbed stuff is okay on bilge pumps, but definitely not for the livewells. If you do replace it, go to a hardware store and get some of the braided vinyl hose. Heater hose works too but is more expensive and prone to kinking.

Most plastic thru-hulls are not rated for use below the waterline. Be aware of that. Bronze is always a good choice.
 
I have started working on the floors. It is much more painful then I anticipated. I do have the old flooring, but it is covered with the carpet, so taking accurate measurements of irregular shapes is difficult.

I am planning to use marine vinyl, so it is thinner then carpet, so all dimensions should be adjusted. And that is PITA. they were able to hide lots of irregularities with fluffy carpet that would be super visible with vinyl. So here I am cutting, fitting, cutting, measuring.
Sometimes it's easier to just measure and cut from scratch. Make it tight, then use a planer to shave small amounts off and a jigsaw to cut out irregular shapes. You are probably past all of this already, but thanks for keeping the interesting updates going
 
Hi guys, to be honest I was not expecting plywood to be such a large project. Like Thrill said, I have ended up measuring almost all from scratch. Fit, trim, rinse and repeat. I have used the old pieces of floor for the rough cuts. Added 1/2 inch to all the sides a d then adjusted as needed. Even then I had to glue back some pieces to make it wider.
I had an offcut of the old vinyl laying g around and I have cut it up in small prices and together with the offcuts of the carpet "shimmed" thr joints to make sure they are tight. Of course the hatches needed to be less tight then static joints, so it was all custom fitted.
I did enjoy the process though. Feels good to be putting things back. Even though I know, that all of it will come out for coats of varnish and vinyl. Hopefully glue is not going to add much thickness. Lol

I do have a question for you guys. I will be mounting downriggers on this boat. I do not have much room on the t
gunnels (especially on the starboard side where cleat, gas filler and light are all located) . I have come up with the stand idea. Not super happy how it looks though. Feels like an afterthought. Any better ideas? Or should I just mount it on the gunnels?
 

Attachments

  • 20241010_144844.jpg
    20241010_144844.jpg
    108.7 KB
  • 20241010_144802.jpg
    20241010_144802.jpg
    95.5 KB
  • 20241010_144830.jpg
    20241010_144830.jpg
    134.9 KB
  • 20241010_144738.jpg
    20241010_144738.jpg
    111.3 KB
  • 20241010_144856.jpg
    20241010_144856.jpg
    97.9 KB
  • 20241010_144902.jpg
    20241010_144902.jpg
    105.6 KB
  • 20241010_144937.jpg
    20241010_144937.jpg
    87.1 KB
The downrigger mount looks fine. However, think I place farther from the stern. If that gap between the mount and stern were opened up a bit the lines might flow better.
 
The downrigger mount looks fine. However, think I place farther from the stern. If that gap between the mount and stern were opened up a bit the lines might flow better.
Thank you for your input. I have another option that I want to try. Basically move the aluminum angled panel out. I will mock it up next week (it is Thanksgiving weekend here in Canada). Will post pictures next week.
 
I'm not sure if your questions were answered about the hoses and fittings.

I'd leave the rubber hoses be. The plastic ribbed stuff is okay on bilge pumps, but definitely not for the livewells. If you do replace it, go to a hardware store and get some of the braided vinyl hose. Heater hose works too but is more expensive and prone to kinking.

Most plastic thru-hulls are not rated for use below the waterline. Be aware of that. Bronze is always a good choice.
Thank you. I have inspected the hoses and they looked fine, no cracks, still flexible. So the executive decision was made to keep them.
I was told that brass still has galvanic reaction with aluminum, so I have decided to stay safe and go for a good brand plastic ones (even though attwood had only white ones in my size).
Thank you all for the support and opinions. You guys help me to move forward.
BTW, I have estimated to have over 100 hours in this boat by now.
 
Great update.
Your carpentry work looks good. Hopefully, you have an electric hand planer. They save a lot of time and really help make things precise.
 

Latest posts

Top