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Basically if compression is good and it runs fine, I'd just put a water pump in it. Worst case it'll need coils and points and a carb kit. All of which aren't too difficult for even a newbie with a combination of YouTube and Leroy's ramblings. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

That 5.5 would likely plane that boat with a light load. If you don't care about that and putt putting around is fine by you, a smaller motor is fine. I have a little 2hp Mariner/Yamaha that I've used on a 12' and it shoves it around a small lake just fine. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Nice. Now to find a 14hp outboard for it! Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Mine is as permanent as a decal can be Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Yeah good luck. I've made them from aluminum plate. Any weld/fab shop should be able to. Sometimes it takes a bit of fiddling because those corners are never 90° Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Start by putting the boat on saw horses and fill it with a hose, just the bottom. Look for leaky rivets and mark them with a sharpie. You can tilt the boat to check side rivets. Once you have identified the offending rivets, you can rebuck them to tighten things up. Stubborn ones can be sealed...

Maybe not getting enough fuel? Is the jet size in the new carb correct for that motor? Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

I turn mine upside down on the trailer for the winter. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Congrats and that motor has waited a long time, a little longer won't hurt Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

B. But only against the hull above the seat, keeping any rivets or bolts above the waterline. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Jeez that's a tough one. The aluminum is obviously fatigued and further stress will cause more cracking. This may cost a few bucks but what if you fabricated some aluminum rod storage boxes? 14gauge perhaps. The boxes would replace the gussets and bolt or rivet to the benches and hull at the...

That's a cool looking old hull. A lot of boats of that vintage had wood seats. New planks with a stain and several coats of spar urethane will look great, I used pine on one tinny and they looked good and held up well. I definitely recommend having a fabrication shop bend up a couple flotation...

A hydrofoil will give a lot of transom lift. I've used them with great results on a couple heavy 14 footers. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Good call on the battery acid theory. Maybe a baking soda slurry poured inside and let sit would neutralize any remaining acid. Couldn't hurt. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

I have a 12' for the back of my truck in addition to my 16' main boat, so I get it. Check in out this video. https://youtu.be/Gos8Vs7_OgU Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Dales is a good plan for a good looking repair. If all you want is a quick fix and don't care about how it looks, use JB Weld Steel Stik. I've had good luck with this stuff and keep some in my tackle box. It comes in a stick and you simply slice off a piece and knead it into a putty with your...

That's interesting. Looks really good! Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Cool. So how is that done? Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

I know johnnyrude went from powerhead to propshaft rating in 84. So if it's a 30 HP powerhead, that is with a prop. With a jet it's likely closer to 20hp equivalent. A pic would be helpful. Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Pretty light motor. Depends on how flimsy your transom is and how rough the commute to the lake is. I just put a 1" ratchet strap around my motor to keep it from bouncing but a transom saver never hurt anything! Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk