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LOL ....I did, and it was spectacular! Wing sheared the nylon bolts, the fuse buried itself in the ground and the wing came down intact after an additional 10 seconds or so. Got a standing ovation for that one.

Every trolling motor I know of has or at least recommends you add over current protection. Usually in the form of a circuit breaker. Most circuit breakers are not designed to break quick enough to protect the prop from damage. Your idea of a brass shear pin will hopefully accomplish what you...

I re-read this thread. You mentioned the alarm beeping. Is it beeping every second or two or is it a constant alarm or is it every 20 seconds or so? This makes a big difference so please be clear.

Nope. A thermostat is a device that opens and closes as a result of its temperature. It is a restrictor of sorts. A sensor (in your engine anyway) is actually a sender which is a device that internally creates an electrical ground based on temperature and will complete an electrical circuit...

Any grease will work. Just apply a light film with your finger. It will wash away once you run the engine. Try not to cover the tiny holes in the top of the impeller housing. Those are there to purge air from the pump.

In the Antique Outboard club we have tons of folks running the vintage 14' Alumacrafts with vintage 35hp engines. Gas tank goes forward in the boat and a small battery for electric start under the splash well if so equipped. They run perfectly with the bow hanging a few inches above the water...

Guys.....I get "cranky" when I take the time to think about and answer a question based upon the information I have received and then read that the OP will either ignore the information or only do part of what is asked. Or......when someone else comes in behind the answer and suggests the OP do...

Just to clarify. This engine does not depend on the thermostat much past idle. The engine is heated by the thermostat at idle to promote good idle running characteristics and keep the engine dry internally while running in colder water. The engine is not thermostatically controlled throughout...

Not shocked by much these days but then again I have limited experience with the "entitled generation"! My style will not change. I still believe in keeping this forum to a high standard of information sharing while helping folks who need help. DaleH and RBW Thanks for the support! I do...

Tell me where I treated you like crap until you got on me about my use of bold? Contrary to your belief.... your thread was not "all about you!" You seem to be "entitled". I write so others can learn when they read what is written. I use bold to quickly find my posts in lengthy threads so that...

Am so sorry you got butt hurt by my choice in bold font. Poor baby.

No....that is not my intent. YOU have to remember that this is an open forum. You had 2 posts when you started this thread. I have zero idea what your capabilities are based on 2 posts. Other people read these threads in hopes that they can learn from them and this is the way I write. Not just...

Wow......! You're welcome.

You saw no voltage because it is AC voltage, not DC ! You need a peak reading voltmeter to check it. Secondly voltage will only be present while cranking or running not while the key is on and engine not running. Regardless of how you had it wired I have given you ways to check it! Please...

Do not touch the end of the black/yellow as it has anywhere up to around 300v going through it but you can disconnect it and touch it to ground and it should shut the engine off immediately. Safer way to do it is to shut if off, ground the wire and try and start it. Should not start. Your...

Welcome to the forum! Needle setting means nothing. That is simply where the setting ended up to run your engine smoothly at idle. Carburetor part number can be looked up if your carb still has the tag on it. You say you probed the kill wire. First.....identify the wire for me that you...

With nothing else attached to the battery !!!!! Take a voltage measurement tonight and again in the morning or tomorrow sometime.

First off. 12.2v is not a satisfactory charge level. Should be way up into the 13v range. So, right off the bat you either have a drain and the engine cannot keep up or a bad battery or an onboard drain on the battery or a faulty engine charging system but we cannot assume anything yet...

That red seal should come in a carb kit! I just looked at a 1987 model real quick and it is right there. P/N 315232. #17 on the parts diagram

A 15hp will be more than enough to do those speeds. You will be pleasantly surprised [ Edit Just for some peace of mind here is my cousin running his 14' Alumacraft with a 35hp on the back. This was just a part throttle cruise. Runs great with only one person on board as well.