Outboard maximum weight on 14ft Alumacraft

[AndrewBrown]

I inherited a 1972 14ft Alumacraft V-hull. Weighs around 180 lbs. The original 2 stroke 9.9 weighed around 60lbs. In the last year I tested out a 88lb Tohatsu 4 stroke with electric start, along with a 37lb battery in the back, which worked just fine. I am looking at either a new 96lb Honda 9.9 with electric start, or a new 120lb Suzuki 9.9 with power tilt, with plans to move my battery and to the middle of the boat. I am pretty confident that it can handle the additional 8lbs with the Honda especially if I move the battery and reserve gallon tank, but unsure about the additional 32lbs with the Suzuki even with moving the battery and reserve tank. But I would really like the power tilt for shallow water operation.

So my question is really how much difference there is between weight being in the back of the boat (battery, reserve tank) vs. extra weight hanging off the back of the transom. Moving the battery and reserve tank with move about 44lbs off the back, whereas the Suzuki only weighs 32lbs extra. But it makes me nervous as the transom is only 15 inches and occasionally I wonder how much more weight it can take.

 

[MrGiggles]

I had an 81 model F7, probably pretty similar.

You will want to move as much of the weight forward as possible. Just the addition of a battery and electric motor in the back of mine was enough to make it not plane with a 9.8. Moved just the battery to the front and it made a night and day difference.

I eventually put an 83 25hp Johnson on it, which was quite heavy for that size outboard as I recall, over 100lbs. With the added weight up front (at that point it had a front deck, bow mount electric motor, and a battery up there) it was no problem.

 

[airshot]

Yes, move all that extra weight forward, experiment with how far forward you need. Gonna be some trial and error !!
As far as the 15" transom goes, do yourself a big favor and install a self bailing well across the transom !! Eady to make if your handy and there are some generic models availiable in kits. Any small amount of water comming over thevtransom goes into the well then back out with drain holes rather than going into the hull and adding more weight. In my many years of boating I have made a few, I woukd never be without one on a 15" transom.

 

[Ray Clark]

My 14' Lund has a 15" transom. I think you'll be OK.

I moved batteries into the middle bench for a number of reasons:

- Better balance.

- Allowed me to easily relocate the breakers and fuse panel to a spot that I could easily access while on the tiller.

- Freed up precious space behind the aft bench to easily maneuver my 3 gallon fuel tank with room to spare. That space was crowded when the cranking battery was also in the same space.

My 20HP Merc (tiller with electric start) weighs about 126 pounds. I don't feel the boat is stern heavy compared to other small boats I've operated at fishing resorts I've frequented.

I wish my Merc had power trim and tilt. I don't think springing the $$ to add the capability is high enough on my priority list.

One more thing...you mentioned a reserve fuel tank. The new 4-strokes are very fuel efficient; you may find you don't need a reserve tank. Of course, if you take your boat on long WOT runs away from the dock and just want the safety net, then perhaps it's worth carrying extra fuel. But, that tank takes deck space, which may be very precious small tinnies like ours.

 

[mbullen]

Your boat has a weight capacity that includes passengers, gear, and motor.
Alumacraft cap plates were usually found on the transom, but I'm not sure if that's still true in 1972. If you can't find your capacity, say it out loud here and we can surely figure it out. It's a calculation based on displacement and on most 70s 14ft open top Alumacrafts, it ranges between 650-950lbs.

Once the capacity is known, you can do the math on allowable weight between those three categories.
If you're maxed out, if you add to one category, you subtract from another.
How it rides depends on how and where you pack the weight.

 

[LaqueRatt]

I'm not sure why some people hate them, but seems to me the answer it a hydrofoil fin attached to the lower unit. I plan to get one for my Mirro. Considered moving the tank forward. Hard to tie down and one more thing to trip over. Thought about putting the battery in the bow. It would never remain level and would take a beating. Probably wouldn't last long up there. So the foil seems to be the answer. Most report smoother sailing and higher speeds. Being able to remain on plane at a lower speed.

I currently have an 18 HP on my Mirro and it goes pretty good, but I have a 25 HP Rude that's going on it soon which doesn't weigh a whole lot more. If I'm not mistaken it's under a 100 lbs. I can lift it without a lot of trouble so it can't be all that heavy. It's a 77 BTW. If you don't mine working on old motors this might just be the ticket for you. Less weight, a LOT more power and cheaper too. No way I'd put up with a sub 10 HP motor. Just too small IMO.

 

[Pappy]

In the Antique Outboard club we have tons of folks running the vintage 14' Alumacrafts with vintage 35hp engines. Gas tank goes forward in the boat and a small battery for electric start under the splash well if so equipped. They run perfectly with the bow hanging a few inches above the water and zero porpoising. A very good combination. This engine weighs around 123# or so and the boats carry them perfectly.
So....to answer your question this should give you a lot of leeway in engines to power your hull. Have fun!