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Under where you type in your post is a click-link called 'Attachments'. From there you can upload pics from your computer/tablet/phone with the 'Add files' link, then you need to click 'Place Inline' next to the photo name once the photo is loaded...it'll insert the pic at the cursor location in...

Looks close to the '72 Alumacraft I picked up and am currently working on...the rear corner plates look a little different though...so yours could be earlier or later. Far as the decal, I'm replacing mine and found it here...

Feet installed - working on the main runs for the subfloor now. Right side is done and riveted in place, almost done with the left...couple more risers to rivet then the main run to be cut to length and riveted.

Close to being done setting the feet. To keep them in line bow-to-stern, I'm using my 'long straight edge'. Set the foremost one, set the rearmost one, place the straight edge between those and set the rest against the straight edge...and they all line up.

Strip-down and cleaning is complete - now's the time to start the rebuild. https://youtu.be/YobjHTFhLfU

Cheaper - for my boat (14' Alumacraft) I estimated the costs BCX plywood + sealer + carpet = approx $200 1/8" Diamond plate to do the same area = approx $400 with 3003, $550-$600 for 6061 And that's with a place local that has aluminum cheaper than any box store - even Menards with their 11%...

Wired2Fish just started a drawing for a 6-box starter kit Register daily for the giveaway. Drawing on the 16th https://www.wired2fish.com/giveaways/buzbe-starter-kit-giveaway?mc_cid=0cdbd4e373&mc_eid=6abddd389a

Dunno about Cali - but around here MDF is priced between BCX and ACX (3/4" x 4' x 8' - $46, $37, $65 respectively)

More than just 'a few bucks' here. 1/2" x 4' x 8' Marine Grade: $89 1/2" x 4' x 8' ACX $50 1/2" x 4' x 8' BCX $30 Since I'm sealing and carpeting all wood - I've already decided on BCX for the F-9...gotta keep costs within my meager budget.

My standard with the canoe was to plug in the charger the night before a trip...probably do the same with the F-9.

McMaster-Carr does indeed have just about everything...but the shipping charge will kill you. I had a $59 order set up - then found out that shipping that order was another $42 - cancelled the order. E-mail to McMaster questioning the high cost of shipping got this answer..."We subsidize...

Mount them in the boat - run an extension cord to the socket.

Another board I'm on - the recommendation is to stick to these three brands. Pro Mariner Noco Minn Kota I'm actually looking at a Noco for the F-9 rebuild

That's why you're cutting slots in the longer pieces - acts like a connected series of short pieces and you can bend the 'tabs' down. Easier to keep on level too as you're working with one length rather than a series of short lengths.

If the curve is gentle - even just the kerf (thickness) of an angle grinder cut-off wheel will be enough.

With the trailer done and the boat in the garage now - the 'destruction' begins. Using the cargo strap to make sure the hull doesn't bow outward...did the same when I modified the canoe that preceded this.

I would - the keel is the base for the whole boat and the single strongest part of the hull. Having keel support, at least IMO, is necessary.

We need a 'Like' button on this board. :D

Pro Mariner, Noco and Minn Kota are the top rated chargers - BPS isn't even in the running. That said, I'd already planned on a Noco 2-bank for my rebuild.