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I use it and it works great. It takes a bit of time though. For better try using your air chisel with a blunted (cut off) tip. You take that rig soak it in the mix and hammer away on the end of the bold or side of the nut . The vibration will get that oil right down in there. A...

This applys to the straight rack / pinion type only but it's smart, free and pretty simple. My 90 Bayliner has about 2" of free play in the wheel. Not a big issue on plane but at slow speed it's a PITA. This is what its getting in short order. I have heard of this before but never...

You might try looking up any local good old boy saw mills. Sometimes they have the good stuff you won't find in stores and it will be cheaper. They might even make it right to spec for you. If you give one a call and he doesn't have any often they can tell you who does. Just stay away...

It's always better to just put on new lignt sets, wire and all than try to repair old stuff. Then you can save most of the old wire for other uses as usually it's only the ends that get corroded. I quit running wire inside the frame too. Keep it on the inner side of the outside of the...

Heat shrink and liquid electric tape is just the kind of overkill you want for something that gets dunked and left out in the weather. I like using a heat gun on mine. It gets it more uniform for me tha n using a lighter and you don't overheat and burn anything else while doing it...

I just noticed this as I am redoing mine. I'll have to see how that works with 2x6 bunks like I have. FYI back when I worked for the government we had this booth that had a booth with a 40lb sliding window. The bottom track was long since gone and the aluminum was eating right down...

My el chepo EZLoader for the Bayliner is just simple open angle galvanized steel. The long frame runs are wide open on the ends. Nice and simple. They also get tiny spots of rust blush that I just sand off and shoot with cold galvanizing. No real rust though. This is the mess off my 85 Tracker...

I use a HF tiny 1 or less amp trickle charger that I have had for many years. A while back I tried laving it sitting hooked up to my smaller batteries for a week or so. The results werent good at all. It didn't seem to hurt the big ones but sure did kill the smaller ones. Not...

I got everything all sorted out and fired up the Merc. It started and ran like it had been sitting 2 days instead of 2 years. Runs great, filled the whole garage with 2 stroke smoke :LOL2: . Now all I have to do is put the front nav lights on and wire them and it's ready for a water test...

Yea, whatever he was thinking I would like to kick him in the crotch :x . Anyways I had planned on being able to kill all the power with that big double switch and now I'm not quite sure what to do with it. The simple solution is to leave it as with the engine hot all the time. Id...

Nope no lanyard. Just a tiny toggle switch that for the life of me has to be as useless as tits on a bull.

Oh but I found it :roll: . I kept looking at the schematic I posted before and there is a hot going directly from the battery to the solenoid . Then why not mine. So I start looking at the solenoid and all I see is black. Nice big black and a nice equally big black going to the...

https://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/1966ona/26A.jpg This shows a direct hot from battery to the cannon plug to rectifier and solenoid. There is a fused fairly heavy hot going somewhere into the engine loom.

Here are the pics though I doubt they show much of use. Pardon the strewn cable mess. I had hoped to route them along the forward panel ahead of the batteries but found out everything came up short so there it sits waiting to be tucked into a plastic loom. I talked to a friend who...

Oh fwiw they did send me another switch. It took a while getting here but I swapped it out in the panel and alls fine now.

Yup. Hot on both sides of switch, I probed it all. All the connections are fully cleaned or replaced and sealed under that electrical sealer OEM uses on things. The thing. Can't see is the area on the side panel where all those wires go before the controls.. Something looks to be completely...

I redid all the forward electrical stuff for my rebuild. I left the controls and motor electrical alone other than to clean things up, put looms on aged wiring ect. The only thing I added was a 2 battery Seasense shut off dial switch to kill everything. As far as I can tell the dash...

Oh boy, somebody call the 1950's........they lost the paint off their Impala. :LOL2: Seriously , it looks to be in damned good shape. Somebody must have kept it covered and out of the weather. Looking at the switch hanging down under the left side of the wheel. You might want to...

I wouldn't sweat that 10 lb difference. Those numbers are averages and it's not that much anyways. As for your problems always look to your gas for the first source of problems. I use the ethanol gas in my Mercruiser and have for years but don't in anything with a small carb. For some...

Looks good. It's not so much the actual wheel itself that looks bad usually but rather the center parts . Note on mine that aluminum panel. That's a great idea for cover ups and dress ups. Like I said you pretty much can't screw that swirling up and it's nearly free. The Raptorliner...