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EVA - is same as hydroturf and others. Hydroturf also has #M adhesive - but they make many kinds............ I Wouldn't worry about that though. Worst case you get a little delamination - make a tiny slit and inject some more 3M - available at hardware stores. Shop price per sq foot and...

They are marine welders. I didn't say "go there" :? I suggested you call them. It is likely they know every aluminum welder from there to Arkansas. Plus - if they wouldn't be interested in doing to job for you - you know you have a problem.

Give Modliin's welding inn Farmville a call. https://www.facebook.com/ModlinsWelding

Specs given in manuals are cold compression. Remove all plugs and make sure it's WOT

How did it look? Worth a new thread?

Heck.. It's character. Posted at same time. You don't need to fix a scratch..............

Bring some bearing grease with you :)

Might be here? https://boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/

If it's the Lowrance ST - TU, and not aftermarket - go to Lowrance for tech. Not much out there otherwise. "The Lowrance ST-TU Transom Mount Paddlewheel with Speed and Temp Model: 000-0099-75 is only the sensor. The speed displayed will be determined by the chartplotter that it is connected...

And it's "best offer" I'd jump on it if I had time and,,,,,, err $$. My Merc still isn't out of the shop.............. Maybe someone else local like Dale might be interested. This seems right up his alley.

^^^ Also known as liquid tight flexible conduit. I used this also for accessory wiring that might be exposed to weather. Ther FlexTech I used was for engine cables / transducer, etc that are already weather protected.

Cap - That's about the third post you've made her recently here that caught me with a half swallowed gulp of beverage. My laptop can't take anymore spray and my sinuses are clean. Provide a warning on future posts. Something like "Put your coffee cup down" ought to do it.

Saw this CL in Massachusetts.......... In other circumstances I'd take a look............ https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/bod/5148726225.html

I used TechFlex wire sleeving. UV light won't eat it up like loom.

It does matter which side of the motor the ducer is mounted. For standard rotation prop it should *ideally* be on the starboard side. It can be mounted to port - but manufacturers recommended larger distance between ducer and prop to prevent interference. Grab your FF manual online and see...

3/8" is fine. Get a good quality line though. I don't think you even need to ask Pappy about this one :)

How big is the engine and what size is the fuel line?

The problem may be the sensitivity [gain] is set too high so you're getting a double bounce. But - the ducer is too low and on the wrong side of the engine, unless it's counter-rotating......

Chemistry proves that wrong. Don't use anything but stainless or aluminum oxide on an aluminum boat. Brass, bronze, steel brushes WILL embed small particles in the aluminum and WILL lead to uncontrolled crevice corrosion. That's just the way it is.

^^^^^^ DO NOT USE steel or brass. Use only stainless or aluminum oxide. That's bad advice.