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You probably saved yourself about $50 by stopping at that point.

From someone that is used to doing that job I can still understand why you would do this. Especially if you are limited on equipment. It will be money well spent as opposed to some of the total mishaps I have seen some folks do that are totally the opposite and just jump in and ruin major...

I have had a great deal of experience with stuff like this. I am guessing you most likely have limited tools to work with. Welding a nut on that stub would be the #1 way to proceed if at all possible. If you have anyone that has access to a welder I would highly encourage you to go that route...

Use the mix he said or use this stuff. It is great and won't take the paint off everything it comes in contact with...

Yep they would.

I am afraid you will find that plastic is going to be extremely brittle and UV deteriorated. In some cases you can brush it with a real fine wire brush and then dye (paint) it with automotive upholstery/plastic dye to it's original color. It is called vinyl, plastic and carpet dye.

Well It isn't a latch for a tilt like I have ever seen but for sure it isn't a folding tongue.

Lot of people are still living in the past. When 4 strokes first came out they were HEAVY, not so much compared to 2 strokes the same size anymore.

I have an 04 Grizzly and it doesn't have any in the transom.

With a hard jolt like that first thing I would check would be make sure the kill switch key was still attached. If it came out she ain't gonna hit a lick.

Actually there is a BIA standard for bolt on motors and USUALLY under 40 HP all are supposed to be the same. Over 40 I think all were pretty much the same, but Yamaha was much larger on their smaller motors to two years ago. I think they downsized their pattern around then.

I would agree with checking well. I have never gone into a transom that was better than I thought. Most were always worse. There is nothing worse then putting forth the effort of fixing one and think you have only to find out you didn't and more damage was done. I do metal fabrication and more...

You may have to drill them out. Go the left hand drill bit route and hope the combination of heat generated from drilling possibly will twist them in the process, if not at least they will be preheated for the easy out.

No, not to it blows it up which eventually it surely will at that mix.

Forget the orfice and set the idle to your engine.

That is your choice, I guess that would be much like keeping dual element light bulbs that had one element burnt out just in case you need them. But rest assured a TRUE reading of 65-75# is right at the bottom of what one of those motors will run RELIABLY at. Being a professional mechanic or...

65 isn't decent, most will not run reliably at that. I would throw that gauge away if the motor was running because I would suspect it was off by at least 20#.

I am gonna go with a lean mixture on that carb. Not sure if Pappy is going to chime in or not, if he does I will bet he will have seen it before and probably have a more precise or in depth diagnosis. Heat, was an issue.

Todd summed it up excellent. I ALMOST went with a jet on my last boat. I rigged up a prop guard up on my motor that works for my application that gets me by just fine for all the reasons he outlined. I hunt and fish in trash strewn water many times at night. Some times in shallow water, but...

Unless you work on it full time I seriously doubt that happening.