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Almost none in the 25 HP range unless you have a canoe.

One thing for sure you don't mind jumping into something. You may have jumped way into this one much farther than you needed to.

Most likely it is a dirt dobber nest. If by any chance you have a chuck off an old drill you can put a bit in it and turn it by hand and while turning it flood it with a water hose and it will usually come right out doing it that way.

Yep. mine has tilt/trim and it won't break away.

The openings are much bigger in the front on mine. Sorry for the skewed pic. Bad back doesn't bend well. You can see in the other pic it is 1/8" SS and the sides beside those holes running up the edge where you can tell is thin has 3/8" SS rod reinforcing it. It is extremely...

It isn't a tiller motor, but the motor beside it in the first pic of your second post is.

I forgot to get pics of mine, hopefully I will remember tomorrow.

Mine is similar to a Macs. I have never actually seen a Macs but seen pics. I made the holes considerably bigger. I'll get pics of mine this evening.

Well here is the bracket, and that isn't counting the cost of the solenoid, starter, switch etc. And if you are going to do it they are pretty hard to find...

If you open those slots in the front side it cuts down on the drag considerably. When I first made mine I had smaller holes and it did drag quite a bit, I opened up the slots in the front and that changed it considerably. I am sure it still has some parasitic value but I haven't check mine...

I made my own, kind of a hybrid of a couple. It is 1/8" SS I have beat and banged it for 3 years now. I can promise you it has saved me a bunch of trouble. And I had to put that bend in it with a 20 ton press, I'll promise you that you won't bend it up into the prop. https://flic.kr/p/27sQ8Bv

Did you soak it in cleaner or at least spray all compartments out with cleaner and blow out with compressed air? Some really bad ones you have to get after with tip cleaners or small wire if they have scale in them.

You shouldn't have to pump the bulb after it is warmed up that being said even if it had been pumped again it really shouldn't make any difference. Now that kill switch could be a whole 'nuther issue, BUT it shouldn't cause a no start issue unless it was detached.

I have found on just about all of them that you can run them up WOT back them off 15% or close to it and your speed won't decrease hardly any but your fuel consumption will drop 20% or better and your motor will be just as happy as can be.

Look up a "Max Power" starter solenoid. They are used on just about all garden tractors. They are small and compact. I am betting you can fit it under the cowl. I have put them on several mercurys.

Those 12v to 6V ballast resistors he is speaking of for your choke are easy to come by, most auto parts places will have them. The downfall to them is they don't do moisture will. You will need to locate it where it doesn't get wet.

You can lead them to water, but you can't make 'em drink. But they will always be stubborn.

Is it the one with the big coarse threads like this? https://www.amazon.com/Amarine-made-Garboard-Drain-Stainless-Thread/dp/B015ZBLHMS?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

I wouldn't be scared of it at all if it were welded by a competent welder. I would bet that was caused by it setting full of water and freezing. That being the case nothing will stop that much pressure. I have welded a few brand new boats that were similar to that that have set on boat yards in...

It would work but most of that stuff is heavy.