PVC for transom

[bobmwsc]

It's come time to replace the transom on my 12' aluminum boat. I had done it years ago but used untreated wood with a bunch of coats of spar urethane. The issue I have is there is no drain and though I've thought of putting one in I don't trust that I won't screw it up. Because if this on occasion the boat fills with water and the transom board sits low enough that it'll be partially submerged for a day or a week or until I remember to siphon it out.

I found someone online selling cutoffs of solid PVC sheets. I was thinking if sandwiching the rear aluminum between 3/4 sheets of the PVC. Would it be rigid enough to hold a 4hp 2 stroke outboard and a trolling motor? I was thinking if need be I could put aluminum c channel around the PVC to stiffen it.

Any thoughts?

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[nccatfisher]

It would work but most of that stuff is heavy.

 

[DaleH]

Too heavy and way too flexible ... ext plywood and epoxy would run you $60 and last your lifetime ...

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

A local fab shop could make one out of aluminum. 1/4 aluminum plate on both sides with a 1x1 box tube frame in-between. I have heard of several guys doing this. Myself, I just take the plug out. I would definitely put a plug in. If your nervous about it, take it to a shop and have one welded in.

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[DaleH]

I would definitely put a plug in. If your nervous about it, take it to a shop and have one welded in.

There's enough info in here to buy a $7 drain plug kit from Moeller Marine and put it in yourself! See: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37364&p=389254

The 'trick' to using the homemade flaring tool is to use the rounded end of the nuts to start flaring out the tube, even if you need to use a basic plain steel nut and file a chamfer on one end. Once the tube is flared a bit and has started 'turning the corner' (looking like a trumpet) reverse the nut so that the flat-edges form it up tight.

 

[bobmwsc]

Thanks everyone for the comments. It looks like I'll be sticking with wood for the transom. I use epoxy as opposed to the spar urethane for sealing it.

I may run a strip of the composite along the top outside if the transom though. The top rail of the transom extends behind the boat and makes mounting a motor difficult, especially the trolling motor. I usually have to take a scrap piece of wood and shim it in there when attaching the motor.

Dale, I'll check out my old thread where you talked about installing the drain plug as well. The one time install may be easier than removing the motor and flipping the boat every time I'm done using it.

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