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crazymanme2, Who inspected it? USCG? I just dont see how that HP would come out OK on a 12' open boat using their formulas.

Dont want to rain on your parade, but this topic has come up on here and many other sites before. Be careful: I don't know about where you live, but here in Alabama, I can tell you that if our Marine police or wardens see a 50hp motor on a 14' jonboat, you're gonna get stopped. And if you get...

Great minds must think alike! I plan on going up north this summer and getting a boat for fishing & duck hunting over here in Mobile Bay & MS Sound. If I cant find a Grumman 145ss or a Sylvan Alaskan 15DLX, I am going to try to find a older Lund S or WC that I can mod to a walk-thru.Probably...

SOunds like you have it covered. I'll only be running an 18 or 25 hp, so within the WC hp rating. I plan to do it just like the SSV, leaving a few inches at the bottom. I would also put in a single solid peice of plywood all the way across the bottom to form the floor in the notch and for...

I've been thinking about getting a Lund S-14 or WC-14 and doing a similar project. Mainly, making it walk-thru at the center bench. My idea was to notch the center bench, like the Lund SSV layout (which seem to be tough to find used, while used S- & WC's can be found pretty easily). I would...

WTB: Used Grumman 145SS or 165SS or Sylvan/Smokercraft Alaskan 15 DLX. Will also consider a Lund 14 SSV (or WC) or Sylvan 14 Super Snapper. These are the deep semi-v hulls with the split middle seat/walk-thru design and a floor. Needs to be short shaft. Not worried about scratched up paint...

Both should be great hulls, go with the better price. As far as engines, I think you will be dissapointed with a 15 or 20 hp on these hulls. I run an 18hp on a 1440 mv and get around 25 mph max without a load and 20mph with. Put that same engine on a 1648 and I doubt I would get 20mph with...

I would buy it in a heartbeat. Guy I hunted with years ago had one of those 30's, it was a great motor, he loved it. If I remember correctly, they are 3 cyl. & have the oil resevoir under the cowling.

I have always been leary of rollers, heard too many stories of hull damage from them. I think you are going in the right direction.

I don think there is any data that will back this up for any 2 stroke outboard made since the 1970's, probably since the '60s. And definately not for modern 2 strokes.

Something inside it gummed up or stuck. Needs a good cleaning.

How do I take it apart? Thought about pulling it off the shaft last night but could not figure it out.

Transom, fuel tanks and the outboard would be my biggest concern. Flex & rot in the transom, how old the tanks are & are they full of sludge and if the motor is truely in good shape.

Bypassed the switches and put juice to the lower unit. No go. Appears that the motor is bad. Bummer. Anyone need some parts for a really old motorguide????? Prop and head appear to be in fine shape!

Yep, prop turns by hand. Will check the switch tonight, thanks for the clues!

Check "pee hole" and intakes for obstructions (mud). Blow them out with air or clean with a pipe cleaner. Crank up on the water hose for a few seconds to see if it pees. If not, Pull the lower unit & check the water pump. If shot, replace. If good, check the thermostat and make sure it is not...

12V, dont think they made 24Vs back when this one was built! I remember my Dad having it back in around 1985 and a buddy had given it to him used.

Good point, I've seen fully rigged boats going for under $2,000, especially if you are in the right part of the country.

yep.

I have an old TM, probably 25 years old. it sat for last 5 years unused at all. Hooked it up to a battery and it was a no-go. Lots of juice in the battery too. Any thoughts on where to start first? My buddy is supposed to be dropping off a voltage meter tonight.