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Marine Ply, White Oak, and Mahogany are the usual suspects. Many folks have good results with exterior ply, also. Avoid treated stuff. Sealing has multiple avenues, as well. Worthy of it's own discussion, probably. For non-wood, Coosa Blueboard is the standard...but pricey. Personally, I've...

Yeah....that's how I ended up with two. Lolol

As a 2024 update to this older thread, I have purchased two batteries online at walmart this year. Each were purchased online and picked up locally. Each charged a core charge. (can't remember how it was listed, but it was $12). Ultimately, the final price was still cheaper than...

In my experience, it's not the oil, it's the motor. "Ask your Javelin" means to experiment until you find the happy medium for that specific engine. ...if it means that much to you, anyway. Personally, blue smoke doesn't bother me, but if I'm playing around, many of my motors prefer Amsoil...

Perfect. lol To be fair, I'm just guessing. ...but I've got nearly 100 old motors for reference. But I wouldn't worry about addressing it at all, really. Those that know will know, those that don't ... well it doesn't affect performance anyway. Good luck with the sale!

If that's the case, vintage outboard guys are typically more interested in the compression numbers than anything. They'll typically do the total rehab thing themselves, anyway. (expect to lose a couple of points for the non-factory paint job and the under-hood corrosion that suspiciously looks...

I would suggest using a maroon Scotch-Brite pad to simply knock off the flakes. What remains will most likely continue to remain. If you are considering a repaint, one can fix what flaked or go whole hog. Fixing what flaked is just a matter of hitting the bare aluminum with a self-etching...

Cold doesn't bother a venerable 2-stroke. As long as your cooling water isn't frozen, you're good to go. Also, you are correct in that muffs will not work. The primary intake is the triangular extension right behind the prop. Any container will work as a test tank...barrel, trash can, etc...

Well, its a one-year-only design and horsepower. But to be fair, I'm only identifying it by the pic of the cowl (which has been repainted non-factory colors, btw). I guess it's possible someone has used the Javelin hood on a different motor, though. You can confirm with the model number found...

Cool ride! I also have an Admiral, though a '57. That Deluxe layout was a one-year-only design. Very nice! For what it's worth, your Javelin is also a '56 but it's 30hp. Another one-year-only design, by the way.

Personally, I've never tried but they have completely different part numbers for the lower pan and the seal.

Oceansouth has theirs on sale right now. I've not had a set, but I've not been disappointed in any of their other products. https://oceansouth.us/product/trailer-guide-poles/

admittedly, I have zero idea how the plates work north of the border, but it appears you have two different things going on. The red "Crestliner" titled data plate looks like the standard factory plate that I'm used to seeing. It also has Canbar Marine listed on the second line. My reading of...

agreed. For what it's worth, Canbar is the the Canadian Crestliner and the model numbers (#1569) don't always cross over to the American catalogs that are on record. But that being said, the Dane is the only aluminum 80hp rating at 15ft.

Awesome shape! 1959? It's rated 80hp, for what it's worth. Often advertised as a dual setup.

Some solutions include a number of two-part marine epoxies, marine JB Weld, riveted scab patch backbuttered with 3m 5200, etc. If previously covered with wood for some reason, avoid treated materials when rebuilding. Consider adding a sacrificial anode to the hull.

You're likely to get a wide variety of answers on these products as many folks use bedliners and flexseal products to seal their leaking aluminum boats. In my experience, however, they rarely work on aluminum in the long term. These products are largely in the urethane family of compounds and...

'tis a shame. And here I was just about to pull the trigger on a $250,000 pontoon boat.

1955, Andy. First year for the FD.

The cleat appears to be an Attwood product. The bow light looks to be Perko. In this era, most brightwork, steering, windshields, etc were third party vendors that appeared on all brands according to the dealers, wholesalers, or customers individual contracts or wishes.