Hull paint flaking off, repaint or remove?

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I just purchased a 56 Lone Star Admiral Deluxe. It's got a good thick, heavy paint job on it, but there are some bare spots on the hull where the paint has flaked off. The two attached pictures are a side picture of the paint job in general, and a poor quality shot of the underside where it's coming off. From what I've read here, paint on an aluminum boat is only aesthetic and is not doing anything to protect boat. The boat will live in fresh water during the summer.

My main concern is the paint flaking off and getting in the lake. Definitely don't want that to happen.

It seems there's two options: remove the paint to the waterline or somehow encapsulate the flaking painter.

Removing the paint is pretty straightforward. What substance do people recommend to do that with?

If I go to the encapsulate option, does it makes sense to simply repaint it, or put some sort of epoxy, etc., over it?

i'm new to this so thank you for any advice you have.
 

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Not very lol

But if that's the right way to go then its the right way to go.
Right way for whom ?? Are you going to clean and polish the boat after every use ? Will you be showing this boat ? My belief is....putting lots of extra work into a boat that will just be used to fish out if on ocassion ?? But if turning it into a show piece....then well worth the effort ! All depends on what will be done with it when finnished...
 
Right way for whom ?? Are you going to clean and polish the boat after every use ? Will you be showing this boat ? My belief is....putting lots of extra work into a boat that will just be used to fish out if on ocassion ?? But if turning it into a show piece....then well worth the effort ! All depends on what will be done with it when finnished...
Your point is taken.

The "right way" to keep paint from ending up in our pristine lake. The actual question is Can the existing flaking paint be encapsulated effectively to prevent it from coming off or is it a losing battle for a boat that will live in the water.
 
I assume you want the final job to look "halfway decent." That's a subjective call, but it's not "boat show perfect." I did that for my boat build; the link is in my signature block if you want to see what I mean.

Here's how I would do it:

- I'd strip it using mechanical means. For me that entailed use of sanding discs on my random orbit sander and a polycarbide abrasive wheel on the angle grinder. The sanding discs can be harsh on the metal, so be gentle with those. The polycarbide wheel is friable, so it will wear down and is not overly aggressive to remove metal. It took me a weekend to do my boat.

- If you don't want to remove all of the paint, you will at least need to feather all of the edges of the paint where it has flaked away. Also pay attention to areas that may not have flaked but where there might be some separation starting.

- I repainted using Farm and Implement Paint, either the Krylon brand or the Rustoleum brand. Both have worked well for me. This paint is cost effective and easily available at big box stores. I think it's a good choice for "halfway decent" boat paint jobs. There are others on the forum who swear by Total Boat's paint products.
 
I'd start sanding along the flaking edge, the loose paint will come off quickly any paint that is well attached to the hull can be scuffed and feathered for painting.
 
I would suggest using a maroon Scotch-Brite pad to simply knock off the flakes. What remains will most likely continue to remain.
If you are considering a repaint, one can fix what flaked or go whole hog.

Fixing what flaked is just a matter of hitting the bare aluminum with a self-etching primer and then choose your preferred method and product to fill it in. If you want to paint over the old paint, too, the scuff pad will rough up the old paint enough to act as a default primer in those areas.

If going whole hog, you need to strip the boat. Lots of option here, too, but my preferred as of late has been Citri-Strip gel. Apply liberally and cover with a plastic wrap for as long as the stripper wants to remain liquid and working - hours to overnight, even. Once it begins to dry out, uncover and hit with a plastic scraper and a power wash. Repeat as needed.

If repainting, aluminum needs the self-etching primer for proper paint adhesion. There a few self-priming products on the market for aluminum as well - mostly in drab jon boat/sportsman colors, though.

Pic is of my standard Admiral. Stripped and shot with a thinned Rustoleum + hardener. The satin finish is done with aluminum wool.

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