12-14ft aluminum boat on a 6x12 utility trailer

[Tinhead1986]

I dont have room for two trailers and don’t want to sell my utility trailer as it can be used for more things. I’m looking to buy just an aluminum boat with no trailer to save money . I can get a boat by its self for like $400-700 . I have a 6x12 utility trailer with removable gate that i bought for my side by side that i have now sold . I’m wondering if i can launch and retrieve a 12-14ft v Aluminium boat probably with just a trolling motor to my local lake which is 5 min away with out issues. I have a can of coat it i will use on the bottom of the boat and probably add a hand crank winch .Just wondering if it would work and any kind of modifications i should do that could be easily removed if i need to haul something else

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I have a “pick-up on a stick” trailer. A 5x8 tilt bed with all sides removable panels. I have used it a few times to haul my 14’ Fishmaster boat. It is a lite boat, sold by Walmart back in the day. Its trailer was occupied by our 14’ StarCraft. Basicly, used the utility trailer as last resort.

Anytime I’ve used it for that, had a second person, and was only using a trolling motor and battery. It’s a PITA but doable. We flipped the boat over to get the more secure tie down. Stored the trolling motor and battery in the back of the suv. Then getting enough tongue weight. Maybe if you make some sort of removable bunks that go on top of your trailer. With the boat upright, keep the battery and trolling motor tried down on the front of the trailer.

With only one person, loading and unloading is going to be an exercise. Using a winch will make the loading a little easier. If you end up swapping the trailer use back and forth allot, think you will end up with a dedicated boat trailer.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I've used a car trailer to launch a jon boat.

 

[airshot]

It will work if you can get the proper tongue weight on the trailer and it sets low enough to launch the boat. You can always add some support blocks to support the hull on the flat bed of your trailer. You may need to add to the tongue length to get the proper balance. I have used a flat bed utility trailer to launch and retrieve my Jon boat many times. A V bottom will need some extra support due to hull shape. Let us know what you decide......

 

[Crazyboat]

I'd do it, tie her down well and hit the water.

 

[loosescrew]

I had a pop up trailer that I converted to a wood deck utility trailer in the 80's using 2x12 planks with low fixed sides. it was 12ft long and the tailgate lifted off. I used that to haul a 14ft flat bottom Grumman jon boat for over 10 years. I had bought a boat trailer to replace it but found it easier to use the flat trailer. I made up full length wood bunks with bolts that protruded from the bottom of the bunks that I'd drop into holes drilled in the deck, I'd attach them with a wing nut at each end so they didn't float away or stick to the boat.
I'd leave the tail gate at home, mount the two bunks and slide the boat off a same height cart I made for it, then once at the water I'd just back down the ramp, with the motor tilted up, and push the boat off the trailer. I had a boat winch up front to reload it when I was done. I carried a can of spray silicone to keep the bunks slippery and water proof. It was fast and easy and I didn't have to fight with a boat that didn't want to line up with the trailer, the bunks stuck out the back about 18" and when on the ramp they'd be in or just at the water's surface.

The boat was light, with a 10hp motor, one battery, and the usual gear. Maybe 600lbs tops in all.
It was light enough that I could load it without the winch if I had to.
Best of all, it was easier to tie down on that trailer, one strap and the winch left hooked to the bow and it wasn't moving. There was no way for it to slip or bounce sideways and no worry about it not sitting straight on the trailer. The bunks were spaced to fit just outside of the lower strakes on the hull.

I even used that set up to pickup a few other boats I had over the years. The fact that it was the same level as the roller stand I made for the boat on wheels meant I could wheel the boat into the shed in the off season out of the weather and there was no trailer tongue in the way in the garage.

 

[Shark52]

Many, many years ago I used a small utility trailer for a boat. It was a 4x8 trailer and a 10’ Jon boat. I clamped 2x4s across the trailer and put the boat on upside down. To hold it down, I tied the bow handle to the tongue and one strap across the back. I also used a 2’ hitch extension so I could slide the boat farther forward for balance. The boat was light enough that one person could flip it over and slide it on and off, at least I could back then.

 

[BillC]

I’d make a removable roller for the back of the trailer.Full width pipe with a bigger piece of PVC around it. It would make loading a lot easier.

 

[Tinhead1986]

Thanks everyone i’m also thinking of just selling the utility trailer and buying a cheaper aluminum v hull with the trailer and Motor . By the time you buy a decent boat for $500-700 and say just a trolling motor at $360 with out a gas engine. You could probably buy the whole package deal . I’ve seen boat trailer combos for $1500 and the utility trailer will probably just be sitting around since i’ve sold the side by sides and dont really have a use for it

 

[Tinhead1986]

I had a pop up trailer that I converted to a wood deck utility trailer in the 80's using 2x12 planks with low fixed sides. it was 12ft long and the tailgate lifted off. I used that to haul a 14ft flat bottom Grumman jon boat for over 10 years. I had bought a boat trailer to replace it but found it easier to use the flat trailer. I made up full length wood bunks with bolts that protruded from the bottom of the bunks that I'd drop into holes drilled in the deck, I'd attach them with a wing nut at each end so they didn't float away or stick to the boat.
I'd leave the tail gate at home, mount the two bunks and slide the boat off a same height cart I made for it, then once at the water I'd just back down the ramp, with the motor tilted up, and push the boat off the trailer. I had a boat winch up front to reload it when I was done. I carried a can of spray silicone to keep the bunks slippery and water proof. It was fast and easy and I didn't have to fight with a boat that didn't want to line up with the trailer, the bunks stuck out the back about 18" and when on the ramp they'd be in or just at the water's surface.

The boat was light, with a 10hp motor, one battery, and the usual gear. Maybe 600lbs tops in all.
It was light enough that I could load it without the winch if I had to.
Best of all, it was easier to tie down on that trailer, one strap and the winch left hooked to the bow and it wasn't moving. There was no way for it to slip or bounce sideways and no worry about it not sitting straight on the trailer. The bunks were spaced to fit just outside of the lower strakes on the hull.

I even used that set up to pickup a few other boats I had over the years. The fact that it was the same level as the roller stand I made for the boat on wheels meant I could wheel the boat into the shed in the off season out of the weather and there was no trailer tongue in the way in the garage.

would doing something like in the pictures work maybe put two 2x8s or 2x10 on top of 4x4 blocks bolted to the trailer floor . I’m also thinking about just selling the utility trailer because you can buy a decent boat , trailer and motor for $1500-2k . a decent boat alone is $500-700 with out a trolling motor or a gas ob . now that i sold the polaris rzr i don’t know when i would really use it anyways

 

[thill]

If you HAVE to keep the utility trailer, I would do exactly what Loosescrew wrote.

IF not, I would clean up the utility trailer and sell it for the highest amount I could. Utility trailers are usually pretty easy to sell, and you can often get almost as much you paid, if it's clean and you touch up any rust and/or chips in the paint.

Typically, a utility trailer is worth more than a jon boat trailer, so if you wait for the right buyer, you should do pretty good. I was looking for a trailer to haul my tractor, and was surprised at how much they were. I ended up getting a solid, 5,500 lb tandem-axle boat trailer that had bad rollers for something like $400. With a welder and about $350 in angle iron and wood, I converted it into a pretty nice utility trailer, with a 7x14' bed made from 2x6. Very happy with that choice, but I have the skills to do it easily, whereas some may not.

My point, is I got a HD utility trailer for much less than what a utility trailer would cost.

Maybe by selling the utility, you can get what you want with less out of pocket in the end

 

[Tinhead1986]

If you HAVE to keep the utility trailer, I would do exactly what Loosescrew wrote.

IF not, I would clean up the utility trailer and sell it for the highest amount I could. Utility trailers are usually pretty easy to sell, and you can often get almost as much you paid, if it's clean and you touch up any rust and/or chips in the paint.

Typically, a utility trailer is worth more than a jon boat trailer, so if you wait for the right buyer, you should do pretty good. I was looking for a trailer to haul my tractor, and was surprised at how much they were. I ended up getting a solid, 5,500 lb tandem-axle boat trailer that had bad rollers for something like $400. With a welder and about $350 in angle iron and wood, I converted it into a pretty nice utility trailer, with a 7x14' bed made from 2x6. Very happy with that choice, but I have the skills to do it easily, whereas some may not.

My point, is I got a HD utility trailer for much less than what a utility trailer would cost.

Maybe by selling the utility, you can get what you want with less out of pocket in the end

I don’t have to keep the utility trailer my thinking was I already have it and it’s paid for . It’s a 2023 that i bought new , Paid $2900 with taxes . Now that ive sold my two polaris rzr and don’t see me buying anything else anytime soon why keep it . it’s just going to sit around until the one occasion i might need it

After doing a little more research on facebook marketplace, if i were to buy everything separately . a decent 14ft aluminum v hull , trolling motor and then a decent mid 90s-00s outboard. I could buy a boat , trailer and ob for the same amount and i would have a trailer designed for the boat . Vs trying to coble something together and how much iam i really saving

The other thing is if i were to buy my utility trailer again i would probably get something different like a 7x14 , closed in sides. a side loading ramp and 2x6 decking vs what the manufacturer sold me .

i kick my self because i sold a mint thornes 12ft boat with a absolutely mint condition 5 hp mercury

here the boat i once owned that i paid $2100 canadian . Was in real nice shape