1436 alumacraft - opinions wanted

[trailpac]

I have a blank '93 1436 Alumacraft I just picked up. I will be decking it as I get time. I was thinking that I might use joist hangers and 2x4 cedar for the framing with no vertical legs extending down to the hull. It will be topped with 5/8" or 3/4" plywood. Would this be wise? I have attached a couple of drawings for the layout. I will post pictures of the build once I get started.

Thanks

 

[FishingBuds]

Welcome aboard mate

I like the layout, thats what is cool about it, ya get to set it up the way ya want.

Keep us posted on the build.

 

[SlimeTime]

I'd just use a 2"x2" as a ledger board as opposed to joist hangers. Less holes & cheaper too. Go 3/4" ply (not OSB). Plans look good!

And welcome also!
ST

 

[trailpac]

Thanks guys for the welcome and the idea. I had thought about the ledgers, but I thought that the joist hangers would give me more shear strength as I will not have any vertical supports. I would have four rivets per joist end and the hangers weigh a little less I think. Still not sure what I will do. That is why I posted. Thought I would get the opinions of the the experienced before I headed down the wrong path.

Thanks again

I look forward everyone's ideas.

 

[BassNBob]

A couple of questions. What type of seats are you going to use? Pedestal or Stationary. Will you be using an outboard?

 

[trailpac]

Pedestal, one in the rear and one up front. The one in the middle will not be on a pedestal and is for the occasional guest.

All electric right now. 40lb bow mount and I will hopefully be adding a 55lb on the stern soon. I plan to make the rear deck lift up to allow access at the transom. I may want to use a gas outboard in the furture, depending on my needs.

 

[BassNBob]

Here are a couple things to think about and suggestions.
Is there enough clearance to open the front storage doors when the seat is in place?
If your going to use 3/4" p/w I would go with 2x2's and use the hangers to match the 2x2's.
If your going to use 2x4's I would go with 5/8 p/w.
Think about adding a couple of gussets from the runners to the outside for support when mother nature calls. You know how close to the edge we get.
Is your overall length of p/w 89"? That's approx. 80# of weight your adding for 3/4" p/w.
YOur drawings and layout are excellent and I beleive your boat will turn out the same.
I hope you don't mind these suggestions.

 

[Waterwings]

Welcome Aboard, and nice drawings!

 

[dedawg1149]

welcome nice drawings

 

[Jim]

:WELCOME:

Thanks for joining! :beer:

 

[tornado]

I used 3/8" on my decks with the joists about 12" o.c. I add a extra layer about 12"x12"x3/8" under where the seat mounts and my deck feels pretty solid. You can cut alot of weight using the thinner plywood, a good thing in a 1436.

 

[trailpac]

Thanks for the information. I will not start decking until this fall most likely. Want to get a little fishing in right now. Also, I am now thinking of using aluminum angle for my framing. What size angle do you guys usually use (1" - 1 1/2")?

 

[SlimeTime]

You do what you like, but the flooring once installed it goes 1 direction.....downhill. The stronger the material you start with the longer it's going to last. I don't want to fish of a spongy deck, or stand on one when it starts turning soft.

Aluminum angle will be more costly, and you'll need more of it as it'll require more bracing/supports.

ST

 

[trailpac]

I do plan on using 5/8"-3/4" decking. That is the main reason I want to use aluminum framing. I want a solid deck, but I need to keep the weight down. The extra money I will deal with. I just want to do it right. I plan to redesign my framing layout for use of the angle, including vertical columns. I am looking to use structural alum. angle instead of the typical architectural angle found at HD and Lowes. The trusses will most likely be welded and not fastened with rivets. Although, that is my second choice. My question is, what size angle do you guys usually use for the main floor joist? I know different spans require different sizes. My longest possible span is 4'-8".

Thanks again for all the help you guys are providing. This is great.

 

[tornado]

I used L1.5"x1.5"x .125" structural angles on most of my build. When I ran them left to right, length of about 3'-4", the angle flexed more than I wanted so I put a leg at the centerpoint to the floor and it was much stiffer. My point is 4'-8" is a long span and might require more bracing or much larger angles.

 

[trailpac]

Thanks for the size info. I am thinking of running the framing accoss the boat because it will be a shorter span (4'-0" max.). I plan on attaching to the ribs and bracing in between. Now it is time figure the cost and find the time to start.

 

[SlimeTime]

Again, certainly your boat & your call, but 2x2's aren't going to add that much weight, and would sure be alot simpler/cheaper to use. Nothing wrong with aluminum if you can afford it & don't mind the extra time involved working with in.

ST

 

[Sounds Good]

I used angle aluminum and it's solid as a rock.

 

[kemical]

I used angle aluminum and it's solid as a rock.

is it possible you can zoom in the angle bracing, would like to know how you attached them..

thanks

 

[Sounds Good]

Here are a couple links to some bigger pictures from earlier in the build. That's the best I've got...

https://huntingclub.ms/images/Nates Boat/IMG_68181.jpg

https://huntingclub.ms/images/Nates Boat/IMG_68221.jpg

https://huntingclub.ms/images/Nates Boat/IMG_68311.jpg