14ft mirrocraft V-hull

[Buddychrist]

Hey guys I just traded today for a 1979 Mirrocraft 14ft V-hull with a 2004 Mercury pull start 25hp tiller outboard

The first thing on my project list is to clean it up and prep it for paint, get the measurements from a casting platform and floorboards which I am deciding to either get it done in carpet or roll on bed liner. Live wells, Coolers, Rod holders, Fishfinder, Gps Nav, Compass, Multiple batteries, Tackle cases, Flood lights, Spot lights, the list goes on and on!

I will be starting most of all on a frame to hold up my tarp, I used a lawn chair and a clothes basket to keep it up for now but tomorrow im going to be making a trip to home depot after i get my measurements made up to get it all in one trip, Wood, PVC, Cement, Battery holder, and a few LED lights from Radio shack because im going to make my own custom fish lighting. The fish lighting is a family secret as to how its made but In due time if I think I might share a secret or two.

 

[Jim]

Nice looking boat!

Looking forward to the progress of your build!

 

[fool4fish1226]

Sounds like you got a plan and welcome fellow mirrocraft owner.

Whats the cement for, inquiring minds want to know.

 

[Buddychrist]

Yep it's gonna be a nice build

 

[Buddychrist]

Sounds like you got a plan and welcome fellow mirrocraft owner.

Whats the cement for, inquiring minds want to know.

Instead of using a metal anchor that's a pita if it gets stuck under a log you take a 1gal bucket and fill it with cement and put an eye bolt in it and let it dry

Volia unstick able anchor

 

[Buddychrist]

I'll post a instructable when I go to make the anchor, it's simple and effective

 

[moberg12]

Welcome to Club Mirrocraft!! I'm looking forward to following your build!!

 

[Buddychrist]

Welcome to Club Mirrocraft!! I'm looking forward to following your build!!

Thanks buddy! I will be posting photos of the boat tomorrow from top to bottom.

 

[bigwave]

Looks just like mine.....welcome.....post lots of pics.

 

[Buddychrist]

I got the rear light working, hunted a buddy for a pos $10 used seat, the front light is just there for looks for now, gonna pin down two on the engine and I've gotta figure out this mercury friction plate so I can tighten it down on steering for higher speeds!

It's coming together slowly but its still a work in project!

Also while I was in NC I found this little steal at K-Mart for $6 which isn't bad at all for a double din briefcase style Plano brand tackle system!

 

[Andrew04]

Looks like a great starting point!

 

[Buddychrist]

Looks like a great starting point!

Thanks man! I've got along way to go but there's things that could have been avoided that the previous owner failed to mention...

The choke is jerry rigged and instead of replacing the broken rod they removed the turn choke and made it into a pull choke that works but you can't pull too hard or it will come out...

I fashioned a pin out of threaded bar and two locking nuts, and it works perfectly at a quarter of the cost for a new one!



I'll be posting tomorrow to show y'all how to make a un-stickable anchor out of a bleach bottle, clamp bolt for a trailer bunk, and a bag of cement.

I figured out today that the engine has a slide lock to hold it up during transport so I've gotta get online and find the threading size and then I can lift it for transport.

The trailer needs some TLC starting with a new set of lights and a new wiring harness. But that's simple considering I have $20 on my autozone card. So a few extra bucks and I'll have some functioning brake lights.

I'm going to be relocating the Gas tank and replacing the 3 gallon to a 7 gallon tank to the bow. I've got some scrap metal to build a bracket to hold the tank but for now I'll extend the lines for the 3gal and just set it up front.

I am also creating a filler tube that will allow me to fill the fixed tank from the top of the bow without getting into the boat to do so... And it might hold a little extra fuel.

I'll start the instructables on a few items tomorrow on here and as a post. If you have any questions feel free to ask!

 

[Buddychrist]

Here's the answer to the concrete question.

It's a full instructable and pretty simple

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=274751#p274751

 

[Buddychrist]

Ok guys I've gotta cut the transom, I was standing behind the boat looking at the engine and noticed the engine is sitting way off to the right.

The reason being is the previous owner didn't cut a large enough section to put the motor in the middle and placed it to the right for turning clearance.

Is there anyone who has plans on how far to cut the transom out without compromising the transom stability?



As you can see something has to be done... It's like the previous owner had no idea how to build something correctly, he didn't even cap the top after he cut it....

 

[moberg12]

Ok guys I've gotta cut the transom, I was standing behind the boat looking at the engine and noticed the engine is sitting way off to the right.

The reason being is the previous owner didn't cut a large enough section to put the motor in the middle and placed it to the right for turning clearance.

Is there anyone who has plans on how far to cut the transom out without compromising the transom stability?



As you can see something has to be done... It's like the previous owner had no idea how to build something correctly, he didn't even cap the top after he cut it....

You can check out my build thread for some ideas on the transom, link is in my sig. The PO of my boat also did a horrendous job hacking the transom down for a short shaft motor. I also had to replace the transom board so I decided to make it much larger than the stock one. It extends down below the where the braces bolt through. I used a lot more bolts than the factory when I installed it and I applied steelflex to the back of the transom after it was installed to seal all the bolt holes.

You can still order a new transom cap from Mirrocraft but I decided to make my own using aluminum drip edge. It even came in a gray color that almost matched my steelflex.

 

[Buddychrist]

Ok guys I've gotta cut the transom, I was standing behind the boat looking at the engine and noticed the engine is sitting way off to the right.

The reason being is the previous owner didn't cut a large enough section to put the motor in the middle and placed it to the right for turning clearance.

Is there anyone who has plans on how far to cut the transom out without compromising the transom stability?

View attachment 1

As you can see something has to be done... It's like the previous owner had no idea how to build something correctly, he didn't even cap the top after he cut it....

You can check out my build thread for some ideas on the transom, link is in my sig. The PO of my boat also did a horrendous job hacking the transom down for a short shaft motor. I also had to replace the transom board so I decided to make it much larger than the stock one. It extends down below the where the braces bolt through. I used a lot more bolts than the factory when I installed it and I applied steelflex to the back of the transom after it was installed to seal all the bolt holes.

You can still order a new transom cap from Mirrocraft but I decided to make my own using aluminum drip edge. It even came in a gray color that almost matched my steelflex.

I still hang out with my dad a lot even though I have my own family now but he is an HVAC tech at our local hospital and he said he can make a cap for it. The wood is solid so I'm going to keep it just gotta draw up how far I'm going to go out with it.

It rained today so I had a good chance to finish filling it up with water to check for leaks. The pinhole leak that is in front of the rear seat isn't leaking out but I know around where it's at.



I don't know how many of you guys are older but they used to have this sealant called "Alcoa Aluminum Gutter Seal" and I was a retard and finished off my last tube on my carport...

I found a website that has some and I ordered it today. This stuff is the bomb when it comes to sealing up aluminum and it holds strong too!

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Alcoa_Gutterseal_p/vts-138.htm

 

[bigwave]

Hey buddy, I called mirrorcraft to see if they had a template of my hull for the transom cut out. For my boat they offered two different versions on the transom. 15" and 20". They sent me the 15" factory template for my hull. I did not use the template for my new transom, but I could have. I just found the centerpoint and made my own. It is not perfect by any means but I know It will work. Like moberg said, check out my build and you will see that I even recycled my seat to cover the transom inside and out. I will cap this with a nice finished hardwood when I complete my mod. I will have a crush rail the entire run of the boat port and starboard and the cap on the transom too. They can send you an email for the template pattern you need for your boat. Good luck......I wish I had a 16 like yours and moberg......

 

[Buddychrist]

Hey buddy, I called mirrorcraft to see if they had a template of my hull for the transom cut out. For my boat they offered two different versions on the transom. 15" and 20". They sent me the 15" factory template for my hull. I did not use the template for my new transom, but I could have. I just found the centerpoint and made my own. It is not perfect by any means but I know It will work. Like moberg said, check out my build and you will see that I even recycled my seat to cover the transom inside and out. I will cap this with a nice finished hardwood when I complete my mod. I will have a crush rail the entire run of the boat port and starboard and the cap on the transom too. They can send you an email for the template pattern you need for your boat. Good luck......I wish I had a 16 like yours and moberg......

I'm gonna contact them today!

I've got the little 14' just like yours! I'm starting the front deck build today with some spare metal I've got laying around. It won't be finished until I get the wood but I can get the frame done today.

 

[Buddychrist]

Alright guys I'll be posting photos probably tomorrow of it in the water. It's still got a small pinhole but some duct tape will work until I get the Alcoa aluminum gutter seal in the mail.

Until the motor is centered I'm not attempting another high speed run. It's just not safe with it being off set that far. But i'm gonna puddle around, toss some weight in the front and see how it helps stability, check for any more leaks, and if it's all sealed up with some D tape for a few hours I'm gonna toss a few new rapala lures and see if I can get any bass to hit.

I'll be sure to post plenty of photos, and I'm gonna be building a push pole sometime soon for guys like me without reverse! I'll keep y'all posted on how it went!

 

[Buddychrist]

Well I didn't get to take it out today... After further review I noticed I really should put new brake lights on the trailer before its road worthy. Just so happens my buddy called me from autozone to remind me I still had $20 on my autozone account! SCORE!!!!!

$18 out the door with brand new brake lights and side reflectors!