15ft weldbuilt remodel

[Prowelder]

Awesome !! I see your quite the babysitter too !!! Side gig??? I'm a plumber and going to try aluminum brazing after my wood floor rots out. I put a temp floor in with carpet just because fishing has started. Good job & thanks for sharing pics !!!

Ha. I try to involve my kids in all aspects of my life especially work. I think its good for them to see how things go together and it sets a good example for them. I guarantee you at 7,4, and 3 my kids knows more about boats than half the people you see on the water. Ex: docking/deploying the boat, Even driving and maintenance. They mostly help with demo , drilling rivets, removing foam ect. But they see my ideas in sketches before we start building, and they have caught on quick. As far as aluminum brazing goes. Good luck. I know nothing about it, but it seams it would be a pain in the *** and I'm not sure how it would hold up.

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[mikejjmay]

Great looking boat!

Just out of curiosity, why move the battery to the rear? Seems like most tiller boats on here try to move them farther forward to offset the weight of the motor, and get the boat to plane easier.

Just curious, im new to the whole small aluminum boat scene and trying to learn as much as i can for figuring out my own build.

 

[Prowelder]

Great looking boat!

Just out of curiosity, why move the battery to the rear? Seems like most tiller boats on here try to move them farther forward to offset the weight of the motor, and get the boat to plane easier.

Just curious, im new to the whole small aluminum boat scene and trying to learn as much as i can for figuring out my own build.

He already had the batteries in the rear . Behind the back bench seat we actually did move it forward. I don't design all the boats I just build what the customers want

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[Prowelder]

Great looking boat!

Just out of curiosity, why move the battery to the rear? Seems like most tiller boats on here try to move them farther forward to offset the weight of the motor, and get the boat to plane easier.

Just curious, im new to the whole small aluminum boat scene and trying to learn as much as i can for figuring out my own build.

He already had the batteries in the rear . Behind the back bench seat we actually did move it forward. I don't design all the boats I just build what the customers want

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He did have one battery up font but didnt want it there? Idk why?

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[jtf]

Thanks for direction to these photos. The 1648 weldbilt is similar and hope to drop in a hatch cover in the rear bench.

A couple questions, looks like the foam is attached to the top inside so it will be cut when the metal is cut?

If the hatch lid is 24" or more long, an aluminum bottom can be dropped in and tacked, not quite watertight, but close. Would like it to be full length bottom of the bench with the lid being partial width.

Did you insert/weld any stringers or ribs to stiffen the top of the bench?

Good pictures and good welds.

 

[Prowelder]

Thanks for direction to these photos. The 1648 weldbilt is similar and hope to drop in a hatch cover in the rear bench.

A couple questions, looks like the foam is attached to the top inside so it will be cut when the metal is cut?

If the hatch lid is 24" or more long, an aluminum bottom can be dropped in and tacked, not quite watertight, but close. Would like it to be full length bottom of the bench with the lid being partial width.

Did you insert/weld any stringers or ribs to stiffen the top of the bench?

Good pictures and good welds.

I did insert some Aluminum angles underneath the pole seat bracket in the rear bench. The foam is not attached to anything it is free floating. You might scar it a little with your grinding wheel when you're cutting out the top bench, But nowhere near enough to cut it and remove it. The best way to cut the foam is with a saw-all with a long blade. [6"-8"] I usually just cut it in a grid pattern and pull it out as little bricks. You honestly probably do not need any stiffeners inside of the bench for hatch lids. The hatches them cells have sastres every 6" I usually poprivet those and the hatch frames act as a stiffener themselves. Fyi if you want a custom back door hatch lid made i have made them before and shipped out. Just like the one I this pic

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[jtf]

PW, that helps a lot. Bet my rear bench is the same dimensions, (1648). I have my batteries in an extended mid-deck and the fuel tanks/anchor in a forward vented hatch up front.

How much metal did you leave on the back and front? The outside edges look smaller. If that worked without sagging, the hatch on this hull should be fine.

I use 3pc fly rods much of the time and need one 36" lid to slide them into storage. Did you line the bottom with anything? I'm thinking of tacking a piece of aluminum sheet to the bottom.

In the back well behind the bench, I throw dry bags and snap them onto a metal hoop bolted to the hull. Find that I need to stand across the bench and wedge my feet. Not spry enough to stand up without a casting brace.

 

[Prowelder]

PW, that helps a lot. Bet my rear bench is the same dimensions, (1648). I have my batteries in an extended mid-deck and the fuel tanks/anchor in a forward vented hatch up front.

How much metal did you leave on the back and front? The outside edges look smaller. If that worked without sagging, the hatch on this hull should be fine.

I use 3pc fly rods much of the time and need one 36" lid to slide them into storage. Did you line the bottom with anything? I'm thinking of tacking a piece of aluminum sheet to the bottom.

In the back well behind the bench, I throw dry bags and snap them onto a metal hoop bolted to the hull. Find that I need to stand across the bench and wedge my feet. Not spry enough to stand up without a casting brace.

I'm not sure I'm following your question about the edges. Be back door Pan hatches are usually about 1" thick. You can call me anytime my cell number is 757-337-9505. If you would like a custom hatch lid made it would run you around $150 shipped. I have made and shipped about 5 of these a couple of them just through this website alone.

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[jtf]

Talking about the metal left in the bench top. Hatch cut outs: looks like you left 4" on the ends, and on the back and front of the bench top about 4-6." The cut-outs for the hatch lids is what I'm trying to say.

 

[Prowelder]

Talking about the metal left in the bench top. Hatch cut outs: looks like you left 4" on the ends, and on the back and front of the bench top about 4-6." The cut-outs for the hatch lids is what I'm trying to say.

Sorry I have not been on this site in a while. The only reason I left that space was to center the hatch lids I got evenly

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