16' Starcraft winter project **finished Pics page5**

[stone4140]

Well I picked up a 16' Starcraft today that came with a 33hp Johnson and a trailer built like it was meant for battle in WWII today for $400. She is a bit on the homely side right now but with some work I'm thinking she will be a good fishing platform and hopefully be a bit easier on the eyes. My question is has anybody got a boat of this size off the trailer and flipped over in their garage. Its 16.5' long with a 6' beam. I plan on gutting it on the trailer getting the motor off and then getting her off the trailer to get the paint off. Any suggestions?? Also what have people found to be the most effective way of removing paint from the hull? Thanks

 

[mmf]

I have done several of these Starcraft boats before and used paint stripper to remove the outer coat of paint only, you do not want to remove the self etching primer next to the aluminum!

 

[BYOB Fishing]

To flip my bass tracker over, I used the winch strap. I unhooked it from the bow eye, ran the strap around one of the center rollers on the trailer, and then back to the bow eye. I winched the strap up, and the roller worked as a pulley pulling the boat backwards. My wife was in the Jeep, and once the back end of the boat hit the grass, she slowly pulled forward, and the boat sort of drug itself off. We flipped it over by hand after that. I re-loaded mine upside down on the trailer to put in the garage. I spanned the bunks with 2x4s that were wider than the boat, but still able to fit in the garage. I screwed the 2x4s directly to the bunks. We backed the trailer next to the boat, and both picked up the front of the boat and swung it over onto the first 2x4. I used the winch strap again to pull the boat up onto the second set of 2x4s. Worked pretty well for me.

 

[stone4140]

So you are saying I should not get down to the bare aluminum? f I did go down to bare aluminum does that mean I would have to prime it before painting it again?This is my first tin boat so I'll take any info you can give me. I modified a fiberglass boat previously and I feel like most everything I learned on that is not that useful here. I've read through about 20 old posts and 9 pages on steelflex and gluvit and I still find myself confused on many things. And I'm to young to have wet brain already. So if anyone feels like breaking some basic suggestions down for me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[LonLB]

Even bigger boats are pulled off the trailer and flipped over. :wink:

If you strip it out I would think you and a couple friends should be able to pull it off.

I'm thinking that might be a boat that was an enclosed bow, and was converted at some point.


Those starcrafts are nice because you can fix them up, and they look like a modern boat. They were pretty ahead of their time in styling IMO.

I'm currently doing a similar boat with similar size. It's right at 17' and 78" wide.

 

[LonLB]

So you are saying I should not get down to the bare aluminum? f I did go down to bare aluminum does that mean I would have to prime it before painting it again?This is my first tin boat so I'll take any info you can give me. I modified a fiberglass boat previously and I feel like most everything I learned on that is not that useful here. I've read through about 20 old posts and 9 pages on steelflex and gluvit and I still find myself confused on many things. And I'm to young to have wet brain already. So if anyone feels like breaking some basic suggestions down for me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Going to bare aluminum is fine. If you do just use some zinc chromate primer.

I'm going with Gluvit on the inside and regular paint on the outside. It seems like the Gluvit is an easy application, and the Steelflex not so easy.

 

[stone4140]

Even bigger boats are pulled off the trailer and flipped over. :wink:

If you strip it out I would think you and a couple friends should be able to pull it off.

I'm thinking that might be a boat that was an enclosed bow, and was converted at some point.


Those starcrafts are nice because you can fix them up, and they look like a modern boat. They were pretty ahead of their time in styling IMO.

I'm currently doing a similar boat with similar size. It's right at 17' and 78" wide.

Ya I've been watching your post. They are similar but I like your boat more ( I have boat envy) . Anyways the bow cover was definitely removed and they used part of the old console/dashboard to make the side console. I just wish it was a bit further back it leaves very little room for a casting deck. I am a remote steering guy though so either way it will have a console just may have to cut the remaining aluminum console off. And from what I have read the Gluvit def seems like the way to go on the interior and I think knowing my inability to not use every power tool in the garage I will be going to bare aluminum with stripper and some kind of grinder.

 

[LonLB]

Even bigger boats are pulled off the trailer and flipped over. :wink:

If you strip it out I would think you and a couple friends should be able to pull it off.

I'm thinking that might be a boat that was an enclosed bow, and was converted at some point.


Those starcrafts are nice because you can fix them up, and they look like a modern boat. They were pretty ahead of their time in styling IMO.

I'm currently doing a similar boat with similar size. It's right at 17' and 78" wide.

Ya I've been watching your post. They are similar but I like your boat more ( I have boat envy) . Anyways the bow cover was definitely removed and they used part of the old console/dashboard to make the side console. I just wish it was a bit further back it leaves very little room for a casting deck. I am a remote steering guy though so either way it will have a console just may have to cut the remaining aluminum console off. And from what I have read the Gluvit def seems like the way to go on the interior and I think knowing my inability to not use every power tool in the garage I will be going to bare aluminum with stripper and some kind of grinder.

I've considered moving my stbd console back too. I'm not positive I will yet, but I'm thinking about it for sure.

I want plenty of fishing room. While it'll be a fishing boat first I don't want to intrude on too much of the rest of the boat because I want room to take the family out too.

 

[mmf]

So you are saying I should not get down to the bare aluminum? f I did go down to bare aluminum does that mean I would have to prime it before painting it again?This is my first tin boat so I'll take any info you can give me. I modified a fiberglass boat previously and I feel like most everything I learned on that is not that useful here. I've read through about 20 old posts and 9 pages on steelflex and gluvit and I still find myself confused on many things. And I'm to young to have wet brain already. So if anyone feels like breaking some basic suggestions down for me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

you can go down to the bare aluminum but then you will HAVE to use SELF ETCHING zinc chromate primer which will be another expense if you do not take off the original primer. Failure to use self etching primer means your paint will flake off later!

 

[stone4140]

[/quote]you can go down to the bare aluminum but then you will HAVE to use SELF ETCHING zinc chromate primer which will be another expense if you do not take off the original primer. Failure to use self etching primer means your paint will flake off later![/quote]

Well I never mind saving cash. Is it fairly obvious when you get to the primer? If I could just get it to that point in most places then just prime in spots that went to bare metal that might save time and cash . I am sure once I get started I'll see where it is all going to head. Thanks

 

[LonLB]

you can go down to the bare aluminum but then you will HAVE to use SELF ETCHING zinc chromate primer which will be another expense if you do not take off the original primer. Failure to use self etching primer means your paint will flake off later![/quote]

Well I never mind saving cash. Is it fairly obvious when you get to the primer? If I could just get it to that point in most places then just prime in spots that went to bare metal that might save time and cash . I am sure once I get started I'll see where it is all going to head. Thanks[/quote]


If sanding, yes probably. If using stripper you may as well plan on going down to bare aluminum.

 

[stone4140]

Well I was able to take two floors out of the boat and a whole bunch of frozen flotation foam. The top floor was in great shape really nice plywood nicer than most the stuff ya find at the depot or lowes. But the sub-flooring was 100% shot. It came off with zero effort and fell apart like wet cardboard. She is much lighter now. So hopefully some beers and some pulled pork will get enough of my buddies over this weekend to get her off the trailer and flipped over in my garage. Better do the flippin before the drinkin . Also there is a "I beam" running down the center that tapers down as it heads toward the transom. I plan on keeping this as it is a great guide/support when I relay the floor. Is this a common practice? Also The flotation obviously gave some support to the floor. I considered using the pool noodles idea I read on here I thinks that's great. But I'm also considering the two part pourable foam. 8 cubic ft for 60$ do you think that would be enough? Maybe supplement with some noodles if its is still lacking..

 

[LonLB]

Yes leave that support.

As for the foam, I really like the simplicity of the noodles or the foam board insulation.

I really like the support the pourable foam adds to the boat and to the floor. Some companies market it as a structural foam, and others don't, so who knows.

I HATE that the 2 part absorbs water, and 90% of the time blocks the drain areas in the hull.


I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I've got a ways to go before I get to that point though.

 

[mmf]

I rebuilt a Starcraft this past spring, utility rebuild and sold it as soon as I finished it (could not resist offer). I used only pool noodles underneath the 3/4" floor. All wood was finished with multiple coats of marine spar varnish and fastener holes were marked and drilled before finish was applied. This lets the finish seep into the penetrations good, if you fail to do this the wood will get wet everywhere you drill a hole and will not last long. The edges of the plywood are most important when applying the sealer too, make sure you seal edges and penetrations as #1 on the list. I also used rustolem clean metal primer tinted at Lowe's for a flat finish coat. You can have it tinted about any color you want. Easy to touch-up and cheap, just keep your formula written down for the tint color.
Here's the link to some pics:
https://picasaweb.google.com/114764926961602492668/Starcraft2?feat=directlink

 

[stone4140]

I rebuilt a Starcraft this past spring, utility rebuild and sold it as soon as I finished it (could not resist offer). I used only pool noodles underneath the 3/4" floor. All wood was finished with multiple coats of marine spar varnish and fastener holes were marked and drilled before finish was applied. This lets the finish seep into the penetrations good, if you fail to do this the wood will get wet everywhere you drill a hole and will not last long. The edges of the plywood are most important when applying the sealer too, make sure you seal edges and penetrations as #1 on the list. I also used rustolem clean metal primer tinted at Lowe's for a flat finish coat. You can have it tinted about any color you want. Easy to touch-up and cheap, just keep your formula written down for the tint color.
Here's the link to some pics:
https://picasaweb.google.com/114764926961602492668/Starcraft2?feat=directlink

Boat looks great, very similiar to mine I am just going to have to contend with the chopped up work they did when it was converted to open bow. They could have done worse for sure but it will still be some work to hide some stuff. I figured if I used the noodles I would just use 3/4" plywood for extra stiffness. Also did you use the rustoleum on the exterior hull? I like the two tone you went with and I plan on using some seats from cabelas or bass pro that are two tone and taking the colors from those for the hull colors.

 

[mmf]

YEP RUSTOLEUM on the outside, same color, just the floor had more spar varinish applied over it after I put in the totally aluminum rivets from McMaster Carr.

 

[stone4140]

10 pound pork shoulder and some western New York snow and we got the boat off the trailer and flipped over. Actually very easy. 6-7 guys made very light work of getting it in the garage. I wish i bought a bigger boat now. A single car garage and a 16ft boat make for tight quarters but at least I can walk and work around all parts of the boat. The tougher part will be doing the work when she is right side up. Ill either have to build a jig or put her back on the trailer. I'd rather build a jig so i can save space.. The work begins tomorrow....

 

[LonLB]

If you were closer I'd have been all over that BBQ and Beer.....


Ah, I mean flipping that boat over. :LOL2:



I'm not looking forward to that part. I'm going to get some harbor freight dollies to put the boat on when I get there. That way I can move the boat around easy.

I think I'd convert that boat to a tiller. I'm still thinking about doing that to mine.

 

[stone4140]

If you were closer I'd have been all over that BBQ and Beer.....


Ah, I mean flipping that boat over. :LOL2:



I'm not looking forward to that part. I'm going to get some harbor freight dollies to put the boat on when I get there. That way I can move the boat around easy.

I think I'd convert that boat to a tiller. I'm still thinking about doing that to mine.

My brother keeps pushing me towards tiller. It would be less work that's for sure. I'd have to get that splashwell out or lower it atleast (and then there goes the work saved )But I'm not going to take the idea off the table. If I did I would build a deck where the splashwell is. My main reason for not doing that is I plan on using the boat for trolling for salmon and trout on calm days in lake Ontario and from my experiences having steering is nice for that. But I primarily will use the boat for pike,bass and taking the family out so I'll just have to see where the projects takes me. Or If you get there first I'd like to see what you do and how it looks. Oh and anytime your in the Rochester , NY area let me know and I will find an excuse to smoke a shoulder and buy some Genny lights(its brewed here so its very cheap )

 

[stone4140]

I saw this stick steering while checking some stuff out https://www.trackerboats.com/boat/?boat=3321 thought it was pretty cool unfortunately it costs $250.