checkoutmyjunk
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Hey all,
New here and thought I would share my little build.
Here is my Weld-Craft 1652 the day I picked it up, had to get it on my utility trailer because my old boat was still on the trailer I was planing on using and it needed attention anyway.
First I pulled the old boat in the garage and took the motor off the back, you can see it hanging on my cherry picker. Next I installed new lights and wiring on the trailer.
The boat was a bare hull, no lights, no floors, nothing. The shop I bought it from was kind enough to use their template to drill the holes for the motor.
First I cut the hatches in, two smalls and two bigger ones. The front one holds my anchor and bow light. They center ones hold my fuel tank and PFDs. The rear hatch acts as a recessed switch panel.
Next I went to the local bass pro and picked up the lights. For the wires I chose a 16awg direct bury heavy jacketed 2 conductor speaker cable from amazon. The bow light from bass pro is garbage, I have to fiddle with it every time to get it to work. All wire interconnects are crimped with heat shrink butt connectors that have an adhesive lining, then I placed all wires in a expandable loom with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing at the ends.
Adding the fuel tank and lines was next. For this I picked up some new marine rated fuel line and ran it from the center seat tank to the water fuel separator then to the priming ball and lastly to the motor. Any exposed fuel line was protected in split loom
Next step was to install the floors, for this I choose some T6016 .100" sheeting. I was lucky to find a machine shop that had a 10x5 sheet for a good price and while I was there they threw a few 16' pieces of 1" angel in.
Measure:
I made a pattern with cardboard and traced it on the aluminium sheet and used a jigsaw to cut it out:
Measure:
Test fit:
I put foam weather stripping down on top of the ribs for dampening. Since I took all the foam out of the center seat and sizable chunks for he two smaller hatches I added some closed cell insulation board in between the ribs for support and flotation but I never took any pictures of this.
The final step was to add my reg numbers, I just ued walmart mail box stickers.
Clean and light:
I have two seasons on this boat and have used it hard, last summer, being unemployed, it was on the water at least 5 days a week. I never once fished out of this boat, I have a cabin on an island so it was purpose built for transportation. Tiller steer was a must for me because it gives me much more room for hauling supplies with out a console. I wanted everything to have a home and not be exposed, just a simple clean layout that was light. Light is important for two reasons 1. I have a 40/30 jet 2. I boat in skinny water, often in hitting pebble bars.
Here are some images to illustrate how I use this boat:
Tractor hauling
Scaffolding run
Materials runs
Bringing junk home
Boating in all conditions
Frozen:
Flooded:
Tote for my rain collection
Hauling boats with my boats
What its like at sunset
New here and thought I would share my little build.
Here is my Weld-Craft 1652 the day I picked it up, had to get it on my utility trailer because my old boat was still on the trailer I was planing on using and it needed attention anyway.

First I pulled the old boat in the garage and took the motor off the back, you can see it hanging on my cherry picker. Next I installed new lights and wiring on the trailer.

The boat was a bare hull, no lights, no floors, nothing. The shop I bought it from was kind enough to use their template to drill the holes for the motor.
First I cut the hatches in, two smalls and two bigger ones. The front one holds my anchor and bow light. They center ones hold my fuel tank and PFDs. The rear hatch acts as a recessed switch panel.





Next I went to the local bass pro and picked up the lights. For the wires I chose a 16awg direct bury heavy jacketed 2 conductor speaker cable from amazon. The bow light from bass pro is garbage, I have to fiddle with it every time to get it to work. All wire interconnects are crimped with heat shrink butt connectors that have an adhesive lining, then I placed all wires in a expandable loom with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing at the ends.

Adding the fuel tank and lines was next. For this I picked up some new marine rated fuel line and ran it from the center seat tank to the water fuel separator then to the priming ball and lastly to the motor. Any exposed fuel line was protected in split loom

Next step was to install the floors, for this I choose some T6016 .100" sheeting. I was lucky to find a machine shop that had a 10x5 sheet for a good price and while I was there they threw a few 16' pieces of 1" angel in.
Measure:

I made a pattern with cardboard and traced it on the aluminium sheet and used a jigsaw to cut it out:

Measure:

Test fit:


I put foam weather stripping down on top of the ribs for dampening. Since I took all the foam out of the center seat and sizable chunks for he two smaller hatches I added some closed cell insulation board in between the ribs for support and flotation but I never took any pictures of this.
The final step was to add my reg numbers, I just ued walmart mail box stickers.

Clean and light:

I have two seasons on this boat and have used it hard, last summer, being unemployed, it was on the water at least 5 days a week. I never once fished out of this boat, I have a cabin on an island so it was purpose built for transportation. Tiller steer was a must for me because it gives me much more room for hauling supplies with out a console. I wanted everything to have a home and not be exposed, just a simple clean layout that was light. Light is important for two reasons 1. I have a 40/30 jet 2. I boat in skinny water, often in hitting pebble bars.
Here are some images to illustrate how I use this boat:
Tractor hauling





Scaffolding run



Materials runs





Bringing junk home

Boating in all conditions
Frozen:

Flooded:





Tote for my rain collection

Hauling boats with my boats

What its like at sunset


