16ft Mirrocraft V-hull build!!**Finished!!!**

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I will be working on mine again this weekend, if the place dries up.....I need to paint and we have had over 10 inches of rain in the last two weeks. I have lots of the deck cut but I need some dry weather to seal the wood with fiberglass. I know mine has been dragging, but I can only work on the little boats as the funds are available. Mo's turned out awesome....I really like the deck too.
 
Thanks for all the comments guys, I'm thrilled with how it's turning out.

Big, a gallon of the epoxy at lowe's was about $40. I put down 4 coats on everything and I still have a good bit left. After I spread the flakes I put down several coats of clear with anti-slip added. I believe a gallon of the clear also runs about $40. All said in done the total cost of everything was around $100.

I'll try to get some more pics tonight with all the lights lit up.
 
night pics!

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I'm done :mrgreen:

Spent all day finishing up all those little things that seem to just take forever!! I have a couple small tasks to finish up tomorrow but the boat is water ready and will be getting wet tomorrow!! I don't have any updated pics just yet as it was dark by the time I quit working tonight. I'll get some pics up tomorrow and hopefully some video of the boat in the water.

Big thanks to everyone here on tinboats ya'll are awesome!!
 
Hey Mo, I got to looking at your decks and decided to go with the same type of sealer. I opted for the gliden Polyurethane floor paint. I talked to the guy at the depot and he said that it is basically the same as Spar urethane. I went with the darkest light grey I could and so far the first coat seems awesome. I am thinking that the gallon will go at least 3 coats on everything. I will put the chips on the last coat of all visible decks. Thanks for the imput.....this stuff is easier than mixing epoxy and you can have any color you want within reason. Now for the outside of the boat......still trying to decide what to do?
 
You might want to consider putting some clear with non-slip over everything after you sprinkle on the flakes. The flakes don't stick that well to the epoxy but a couple coats of clear will seal them down permanently. The quickrete non-slip additive is completely invisible once applied.

I did get the boat in the water both Sunday and Monday this past weekend. Sunday I cranked the motor for the first time in a couple months in the driveway before I left the house without any issues. Then got to the lake and it would not start once I was at the dock at the ramp. After about 15 mins it finally started and I headed out with a huge smile on my face. Got past the no wake buoy and hit the throttle only to have the bow stick straight up with the boat never planing out. My top speed was about 10mph and only about 1200rpms :evil:. I have experienced this before with my Dad's boat and it has always been a carb problem, so I loaded the boat back onto the trailer and took it home in a down pour :evil: . Laying in bed that night I could not sleep thinking about the boat so finally I gave in at about 3am and went out to start pulling the carbs off, but the shop was a mess and I couldn't find anything so I first had to clean my shop. Got the carbs pulled off and went to bed around 6am. Woke up and headed to the store for a couple cans of carb cleaner. I finished cleaning then reinstalling the carbs in the early afternoon but had to wait till about 4pm to head to the lake due to rain. Got back to the lake put the boat in the water and the motor started right up and was idling like a champ. Headed out once again with a huge smile on my face only to get past that damn buoy and have the same thing happen only this time I achieved about 11.5mph :evil: I decided to tool around the lake anyway for a couple hours with the girlfriend, our average cruising speed being about 5.5mph. I wasn't thrilled but we did a little fishing and I just enjoyed being on the lake until I opened one of the back hatches to find a significant amount of water in the bilge, turned on the bilge pump and headed to the ramp.

I wanted to raise the motor up to the highest point on the jack plate before my first trip but just couldn't arrange the man power. My guess right now is the motor being too low is the issue with the poor performance. I think the water in the boat was a combination of the downpour the day before (I didn't pull the plug overnight) along with a plug that wasn't tight enough. After I pumped out the majority of the water I tightened the plug and it didn't seem to take on anymore water.

So there is still some work to do but I plan on raising the motor this week so I can give it another shot this coming weekend. Aside from the poor performance and the water I was pleased with the boat and the layout. The front deck/break dancing floor is awesome. My trolling motor should be here this week so I'm looking forward to getting that installed along with the second battery to add some much needed weight to the bow.

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lists a bit to starboard with just me in the boat, but I'm not a small guy so I guess I'll have to live with it!!

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Just before my break dancing

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Weather wasn't great all weekend!!
 
I had a similar problem with the old Johnson that came with my boat, it ended being a bad power pack and coils. If you've done the carb without improvement and you know the fuel is good, ignition system would be my next stop. The motor being too low shouldn't cause what you're seeing.

Boat looks great!
 
bcg said:
I had a similar problem with the old Johnson that came with my boat, it ended being a bad power pack and coils. If you've done the carb without improvement and you know the fuel is good, ignition system would be my next stop. The motor being too low shouldn't cause what you're seeing.

Boat looks great!

Thanks for the info!! I had actually thought of that and figured I might raise the motor and give it another go before buying more parts. I think your post just changed my mind though, I'll give it a shot!!
 
Hmmm.....The engine thing has me curious......sounds like it could be a grimlin. The boat looks great, I am sure there is a simple fix for the engine. On one of my tillers had the same symptoms.....after many hours of trouble shooting the problem ended up being a set screw for the throttle linkage. It was so obvious that it took me 3 days to see it. I felt really silly once I tightened the screw. :shock:
 
Hey Mo, I just went back and looked at your video of the motor running. I have a question. In the video it appears that the motor on the jack plate is the same height as if it was on the transom itself.....that being said how far below the waterline is the cav plate? I thought about the engine too, if it is new enough it might have a rev limiter on it to keep from overheating.....could be bad thermostat, I will ask my mechanic buddy and see if he might be able to help. I know that on the new verados they will shut down to 1400rpm when the computer detects a failure. My friends brand new 300 had a fuel filter clog and the engine would only run up to 1400rpm. Just trying to help ya, I say if the motor is too low then just take the transom out and make a new 20" board and call it done....its a pita but you have already done it once and the straight piece on the top is easier than cutting that radius.
 
bigwave said:
Hey Mo, I just went back and looked at your video of the motor running. I have a question. In the video it appears that the motor on the jack plate is the same height as if it was on the transom itself.....that being said how far below the waterline is the cav plate? I thought about the engine too, if it is new enough it might have a rev limiter on it to keep from overheating.....could be bad thermostat, I will ask my mechanic buddy and see if he might be able to help. I know that on the new verados they will shut down to 1400rpm when the computer detects a failure. My friends brand new 300 had a fuel filter clog and the engine would only run up to 1400rpm. Just trying to help ya, I say if the motor is too low then just take the transom out and make a new 20" board and call it done....its a pita but you have already done it once and the straight piece on the top is easier than cutting that radius.

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Hopefully those pics will give you an idea of where the motor is now. You are correct that with the motor on the jack plate it is almost at the same height as the transom should be, but I can go higher. The cav plate is probably 2 inches below the bottom of the boat. The jack plate is set at 3" right now and can be raised up to 5"

fool4fish1226 said:
Mo - glad you got the boat out, hope you get your motor issue worked out.

ThanKs man, I'm sure I'll get it all sorted out.
 
Yall have any luck as far as the fishing? Sure was a crappy weekend

Holler at me if you ever need an extra set of hands or a chain winch for lifting.
 
moberg12 said:
In the driveway the motor runs and revs fine!!

This sounds exactly like what I was seeing with mine. I'd put it in the bucket and it ran fine, even put it in gear with the tires chocked and throttled it up, shooting water all over the place. As soon as I'd get the boat in the water, I'd have the same problems again. Mine only became really evident when the motor was under a real load. Like I said, a new power pack and 2 new coils and it ran like a top. Not saying that your problem is definitely the same but the symptoms are pretty much identical.
 
moberg12 said:
Hopefully those pics will give you an idea of where the motor is now. You are correct that with the motor on the jack plate it is almost at the same height as the transom should be, but I can go higher. The cav plate is probably 2 inches below the bottom of the boat. The jack plate is set at 3" right now and can be raised up to 5"

It should plane the way you have this right now (I could plane my V16 with the cav plate 2" too low and topped out around 22 knots), but you do need to raise it 2" for best performance.

The motor height isn't your problem though, it's definitely a motor issue.
 

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