1958 Johnson RDS-20 35hp rebuild

[Shaugh]

This is the motor off my latest project. Totally locked up and neglected for years.



I got it freed up and even have a good spark restored. Compression was 110 and 100.. Carb is in the process of revival, but the lower unit is a mess. I got it pulled off and this dropped out.. complete with a petrified mouse:



The housings for the lower unit appear to have been frozen... welded and scabbed with JB Weld over and over.

This is my biggest problem:


Does anyone think this is fixable ? Or should I just go for a replacement ? These things are not as easy to find as I was hoping. There is a new housing on Marineengine.com:
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0382918
It's not exactly correct for that year but is supposed to fit.

I'll update my progress here. Anyone have one of these laying around ? I need several trim pieces as well.

 

[Johnny]

Shaugh - Pappy and I both have a RDS-20.
his is up and running (go figure) and mine turned out to be a salt water motor
and needs a LOT of love before I can trust it.

I saw an RDS-20 lower unit on ebay the other day - might be worth investigating for a spare.
I bought a L/U a few months ago for $75 with free shipping..... total unit with drive shaft and shift rod.

on the Antique Outboard website, https://www.aomci.org, parts pop up in the Free Classifieds section occasionally
I think you can also post the items that you need. (be sure to follow the posting rules or you will not be heard).
this member has around 30-40 OMC lower units for sale, all hp sizes. Jim McGehee, Montrose Iowa. ph 319-463-7403 email [email protected]


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[Shaugh]

Hey Johnny, that's great news... I'm probably going to need the "dream team" to get this thing going again. It was in total rigor mortis for a decade or more. It took me days of work just to free up the gear shift...

My next problem is a wiring harness that is like extra crispy bacon coming from the side plug. One of the "systems" on this motor that I'm unfamiliar with is the vacuum cut out switch. I understand why it's there... I'm sure a lawyer had a lot to do with it... but it appears to be a mid lake problem just waiting for a chance to occur. I haven't seen it on any motor of this vintage till now.. didn't those motors have exactly the same risk factors ? Would you consider disabling it ? It would painlessly remove about 6 feet of crispy bacon and appears to me to be some really bad engineering with those little mercury switches tacked to the throttle.

From what I've read, the best way to stop a runaway motor is to simply throw the choke.... Do I need it ?

 

[Johnny]

Legally - I am not qualified to give any kind of advice when it comes to motors !!! LOL
that is why Pappy was put on this earth - to help those that can not help themselves.

he can tell you how to build a new harness for next to nothing compared to a repop @ $275.00.

for me, I am going to drill out the exterior plug and place new wires through it and throw
a black fiberglass loom over it and it will look original. some fool has had this plug for sale on ebay
for over a year at $88.00 plus $8 shipping.

I think I have 3 or 4 of them if you need one. I am always on the hunt for RDS-20 stuff such as cowl
trim and cheap parts . . . if you see something for the RDS-20 for cheap, get it. they don't make them anymore.


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[Shaugh]

That's the bacon... I had not thought about drilling out the plug... I may get to that, but my wires seem to be ok for about 2" coming out... I think I'll try butt splicing from there first...

My shroud is in great shape... all the emblems and chrome are in top notch condition. The only part I'm missing is that center chrome piece that says "Electric Starting" ... I don't suppose you've got an extra on that :wink: ?

The other parts cost gone wild is these little plastic trim locks that hold the emblems on... $2-$3 each !.... and you need about 20...

https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/33293.cfm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2qaF867_1AIVThuBCh35NQ3hEAYYASABEgKj8fD_BwE

Any DIY ideas ?

 

[Johnny]

check with Home Depot, Lowe's or Ace Hardware for the little
plastic emblem clips . . . I saw some the other day that will probably work.
they are cream colored nylon. or back to the internet.
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Autobody_Clips_And_Fasteners_s/151.htm


the stainless "Electric Starting" emblem I have needs some serious metalsmithing
before it is usable (been trying to find a better one also).
option B would be to find a piece of thin stainless at the junkyard and cut it to fit.
it will look just as snazzy as the original.

those silver wings along the sides are actually stainless steel and will buff up nicely. (or so I was told).

as for the toasted plug, it was designed to be a quick disconnect for removing the motor.
now tell me - how often do you remove a 35hp motor ???
my idea is to have a 10 gang terminal block mounted to the powerhead with quick disconnect clips.
two minutes with a screwdriver and the motor is ready to carry over to your other boat.


the cowl gasket is also available (I will have to look it up if you need one).


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[Shaugh]

Those look good.. I had not found any with that small a shaft size... that's more like the right price. I know those chrome trim pieces are like gold... very hard to find because they were made with such soft metal... Those side wings will almost bend over from gravity if you hold one end.... On every motor I've seen they are always rippled and gouged... Not some of OMC's better engineering... Good idea on the wiring.. I'm hoping to avoid having to figure out what each one of those wires does.... but I probably won't be that lucky... I hate wiring...

You might like where this motor is going.... I know you're a Crestliner fan...

I'm taking over a project from a guy that did some work on it and lost interest... A 58 Voyager 15.... will have mahogany floors and seats... Some day...

 

[Johnny]

WOW and Holy Mackeral !!
that is almost the same furniture theme I am going with now.
I am using Florida Cypress throughout with bench seats.

that bow handle is like gold too !!! on RetroCrestliner, a few of us need the bow handle
but there are none to be found - and nobody wants to loan one out to make copies.
soooooooo I put on my Craftsman's hat and carved one out of wood and sent it to
the foundry - I got the prototype back a few weeks ago and just last night finished the
final buffing to go to "Show and Tell" at the Crestliner forum.
From This

To This



I also made a "flange" for the vintage nav light from some 1/4" aluminum plate.
it also will have the groove down the middle to sit flush over the deck lid seam.



this is what it looks like if you mount anything to the deck lid without the groove.

you could also use the same wood as your interior to make a base for your light.




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[Shaugh]

WOW... that handle is quite a piece of work... very nice... I guess I will have to check in on that forum more... now that I'm a Crestliner guy... 8) ..

I do need the cowl gasket.. please let me know.

I would have loaned you my handle... it's gonna be a while before I need it... I understand the wind wings are also hard to get... I haven't even looked at my nav light yet... It will be a fun project.... It's parked in the backyard... way too punishing hot and rainy outside right now... better to work on motors in the AC garage... Messed around with these a little:



I can see I'm gonna have to figure out how to beat you to EBAY every day... :twisted:

 

[Johnny]

the original cowl gaskets are available from a company in Canada.
you need to either call them on the phone or send an email
to arrange payment. https://www.nymarine.ca




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[Shaugh]

If you're missing some of the other trim items, check this out... and look below it... I believe these are the right parts.. mislabeled as Javelin parts.. ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-1958-JOHNSON-JAVELIN-305628-STARBOARD-SHROUD-APPLIQUE-CHROME-TRIM/272681532688?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dda4d7ab341e44066abbc267409420b40%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D282488620994

If you feel like traveling this one looks damn good.... and it comes with a nice batch of firewood...

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/boa/6182249635.html

all kidding aside that would be a steal if you could get there... You could sell the boat for $1000 and get the motor for free.. And have $200 left over for gas and beer.... I almost talked myself into it...

 

[Shaugh]

I guess I've decided to go ahead and get this housing :
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0382918

New and fresh seems like a good idea... the only thing stopping me is these instructions:

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/technical_information/OMC_Gear_Case_Water_Tube.pdf

Where they talk about installing a Water tube and plugging holes:


My original is below.. with no holes... Can somebody explain the difference ? I need to buy this tube and fittings too ?

 

[Shaugh]

Hey Johnny,
I found this trim on Ebay... seems to work well although it's a little deeper:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/120-Car-Auto-Rubber-Seal-Strip-Window-Door-Edge-Protect-Molding-Trim-U-Shape/282250851074?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Exciting day today... got her running again for the first time. I found a lower unit that was near perfect from a 59 Evinrude. It's one of the best parts of this hobby when you hear that old, dead motor come back to life... Purrs like a kitten and pees like a racehorse again. These larger big twins are such a pleasure to work on...loads of room under the hood... Another life saved with Marvel Mystery Oil....

Now it's on to paint and detailing...

 

[Shaugh]

Finished the shroud today. I'm pretty happy with the results although that missing trim really needles me now... desperate plea to anybody who might come across one... The middle front plate that says "Electric Starting"...

 

[Johnny]

wow - as usual - VERY IMPRESSIVE !!!
if you can find a piece of stainless, you can cut it to fit
the space you need and buff it up all nice and shiny
nobody will ever notice the "Electric Starting" engraving is missing.
I may go that route if I can not get the dings out mine.


I had to forego the aluminum plate under the bow light as I just could not
get it to fit right . . . so I made a cypress wood block for it to sit on and it
looks much better. it will match the seats when it is all said and done.



.

 

[Shaugh]

the wood base wil be a perfect touch for that boat. I love that cypress transom you did... can't wait to see the rest... makes me want to junk that mahogany for mine..... a lighter shade of wood looks best on a Crestliner...

I'm considering making my own plate.. funny thing is I think the motor looks better without it....They really overdid it with chrome bling on that shroud imo.... I might just fill the holes and call it a day...

 

[Shaugh]

I followed your lead and polished up a plate... I didn't want it sticking over the edges like the other plates.. ( which is why they are all in such bad shape)....

But I think I might have undershot it a bit... too small ?





coming together bit by bit... should get it all finished by tomorrow..

 

[nccatfisher]

If that plate bothers you that bad you could make it out of aluminum. You could still polish it almost to the sheen of stainless and take it to a trophy shop and they should be able to handle that engraving for you. And put the "Electric Start" on it if you took a pic with the type of lettering and spacing you wanted.

Personally what you have looks awfully good.

 

[Shaugh]

Good idea about the engraving... gonna look into that...preliminary assembly.. looking pretty good. A few more details and I can take it out for the first run in a couple decades..

 

[Bart]

I have a similar motor. It is a 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark. Mine has a tiller handle with a pushbutton start and kill button on the motor. It is on a 16 foot aluminum Starcraft and pushes it along very well.