Lonestar1960
Member
Good morning, I am new to the forum and also new to aluminum boats and hoping for some advice from the experts. I would really appreciate it!
A little background: A year and a half ago I redid the transom, stringers, bulkheads, and deck of a 16ft 1976 Invader Intruder and it was my first time restoring a boat or working with polyester resin, CSM, and 1708 fiberglass. The space has seemed cramped for our activities (trolling pelagics offshore, lobstering, and scuba-diving in Miami/Homestead FL) but we make it work. We're also limited on space on our sideyard that a boat would fit, with only 7.95ft from our house to the neighbor's property line.
While diving off Key Largo, I saw a 16-18ft boat with the helm way up front and a large space in the back and fell in love and have looked for something similar for months. In comes the 1960 Longhorn El Dorado on CL and I just picked it up but it needs alot of work. I have a couple questions and will post pictures along the way. I have read alot but also want to make sure on some points.
1. When I picked it up there was rainwater in it but I didn't see any leaks from the bottom. While cleaning out the water and grime I see silicon on top of many rivets inside the hull. Not sure if there was a problem or if it's preemptive. What's the best way to find any leaking rivets, and best way to resolve them? I've had good luck with 3M 4200 on my Invader but not sure about sealing rivets with it?
2. The max hp rating for the boat is 80hp, which I believe was the biggest outboard manufactured in 1960. I'd like to put a newer 115hp 4-stroke on it and feel like I need to brace the transom. Everything I read says you can't beef up the transom using fiberglass on aluminum. What's the best way to go about it without a welder? And if a welder is required, what's an economical option to buy one that'd work great on aluminum boats?
3. I read to not use plywood as a deck in an aluminum boat, and also read that planks with a 1/8" - 1/4" gap inbetween is fine in aluminum boats. I like it also because I can see any water underneath and spray freshwater down there. Is there a recommended wood/prep for this? Or in saltwater is it best to seal off the deck completely, even though I feel a leaking rivet would allow salterwater in anyways and I wouldn't be able to spray it down. We will 100% trailer to the marina.
I'm trying to build a functional fishing/lobster machine. Will paint it nice but won't restore it to 1960 original so I don't want to spend a fortune on it. I really appreciate your time and advice!
A little background: A year and a half ago I redid the transom, stringers, bulkheads, and deck of a 16ft 1976 Invader Intruder and it was my first time restoring a boat or working with polyester resin, CSM, and 1708 fiberglass. The space has seemed cramped for our activities (trolling pelagics offshore, lobstering, and scuba-diving in Miami/Homestead FL) but we make it work. We're also limited on space on our sideyard that a boat would fit, with only 7.95ft from our house to the neighbor's property line.
While diving off Key Largo, I saw a 16-18ft boat with the helm way up front and a large space in the back and fell in love and have looked for something similar for months. In comes the 1960 Longhorn El Dorado on CL and I just picked it up but it needs alot of work. I have a couple questions and will post pictures along the way. I have read alot but also want to make sure on some points.
1. When I picked it up there was rainwater in it but I didn't see any leaks from the bottom. While cleaning out the water and grime I see silicon on top of many rivets inside the hull. Not sure if there was a problem or if it's preemptive. What's the best way to find any leaking rivets, and best way to resolve them? I've had good luck with 3M 4200 on my Invader but not sure about sealing rivets with it?
2. The max hp rating for the boat is 80hp, which I believe was the biggest outboard manufactured in 1960. I'd like to put a newer 115hp 4-stroke on it and feel like I need to brace the transom. Everything I read says you can't beef up the transom using fiberglass on aluminum. What's the best way to go about it without a welder? And if a welder is required, what's an economical option to buy one that'd work great on aluminum boats?
3. I read to not use plywood as a deck in an aluminum boat, and also read that planks with a 1/8" - 1/4" gap inbetween is fine in aluminum boats. I like it also because I can see any water underneath and spray freshwater down there. Is there a recommended wood/prep for this? Or in saltwater is it best to seal off the deck completely, even though I feel a leaking rivet would allow salterwater in anyways and I wouldn't be able to spray it down. We will 100% trailer to the marina.
I'm trying to build a functional fishing/lobster machine. Will paint it nice but won't restore it to 1960 original so I don't want to spend a fortune on it. I really appreciate your time and advice!
