Just inherited. Pulled seats and rotten transom. Want to repaint but running into some issues with stripping. I have tried all stripping agents and apply liberally and cover with plastic. It appears that maybe someone put a very hard undercoating. With the age of the boat and the intention of this being a budget build, what are y'all's recommendations? I'd like to hear it all. I have a lot ahead of me lol. Thanks!
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1965 14ft Mirrocraft
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On the outside, I would sand only to remove old loose chalky paint and to fair out any chipped areas. Then apply new primer/paint. On the inside, I would not paint the bilge area (bottom). If inside painting is wanted, I would limit it to the sides.
Just my two cents.
Just my two cents.
Any recommendations on good exterior paint to paint over old paint? Also, why no paint in bilge? I thought about flex seal or coat-it on the inside. Thanks!
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If the old paint sticks that well...leave it alone !! Leak test before worrying about what to coat it with...you mentioned "budget" don't take any unecessary steps if you don't need to...I have used exterior rustoleum with good sucess, even over old paint. The brush on can colors match the spray colors!! My last refurbush was my 12' jon boat, that was over 6 years back, still looks like the day I finnished it, but it does sit under an awning, not out in the sun....
Here's what I did when I bought my old Lund. The boat as it sat on the day got it:
I got a couple polycarbide abrasive wheels for the angle grinder. They are relatively inexpensive at Harbor Freight. I then went to work mechanically stripping the old paint. When I was done with that, the boat looked like this:
I only attacked the painted portion of the hull; I didn't want to lose most of the season to a boat rehab for cosmetics. I didn't do the interior of the hull at all and the bottom of the hull is still waiting for stripping and repainting. You're going to need eye protection and a dust mask if you choose to do it as I did.
Using Krylon Farm and Implement Paint, I painted the upper portion of the hull that was originally red. I used Krylon's "Massey-Ferguson Red" since it's a close match with the Lund Red. I also added hardener to the paint for durability. The paint was relatively inexpensive; $15 for a quart and $8 for the associated Krylon hardener. I ordered it through a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store since they carry the product in their line. Rustoleum has a similar product. Both Krylon and Rustoleum offer their farm and implement paints in a spray can as well. Priming is recommended.
I rolled and tip-brushed the paint to apply it. The Krylon did a nice job of self-leveling. The boat as it looks now:
I added new Lund decals. They are period correct for 1979 and came off of eBay.
I will do the bottom, probably next winter when I can fully unload the boat, get it off the trailer and turned over onto saw horses. I'm thinking about using the black version of the Farm and Implement paint for the bottom.
I got a couple polycarbide abrasive wheels for the angle grinder. They are relatively inexpensive at Harbor Freight. I then went to work mechanically stripping the old paint. When I was done with that, the boat looked like this:
I only attacked the painted portion of the hull; I didn't want to lose most of the season to a boat rehab for cosmetics. I didn't do the interior of the hull at all and the bottom of the hull is still waiting for stripping and repainting. You're going to need eye protection and a dust mask if you choose to do it as I did.
Using Krylon Farm and Implement Paint, I painted the upper portion of the hull that was originally red. I used Krylon's "Massey-Ferguson Red" since it's a close match with the Lund Red. I also added hardener to the paint for durability. The paint was relatively inexpensive; $15 for a quart and $8 for the associated Krylon hardener. I ordered it through a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store since they carry the product in their line. Rustoleum has a similar product. Both Krylon and Rustoleum offer their farm and implement paints in a spray can as well. Priming is recommended.
I rolled and tip-brushed the paint to apply it. The Krylon did a nice job of self-leveling. The boat as it looks now:
I added new Lund decals. They are period correct for 1979 and came off of eBay.
I will do the bottom, probably next winter when I can fully unload the boat, get it off the trailer and turned over onto saw horses. I'm thinking about using the black version of the Farm and Implement paint for the bottom.
I didn't prime mine, and so far it hasn't been an issue. I know that primer is recommended, that's why I worded it as such. If I was to do it again, Total Boat sells a primer, but at $44/quart, I would default to Rustoleum self-etching primer in a rattle can.
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Do a search for bare aluminum primer, can't think what it is called !!
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I went with total boat aluminum primer.
I have access to some very cheap Moeller Marine primer, engine paint, and clear coat. A good rough sanding and those paints might be what I go with. Will leave the bilge bare until I get to float it and fully check for leaks. I was told it didn't leak but you never know these days.
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If there aren't any leaks, to me, adding a coat of anything in the bilge under the decking isn't necessary.
I really know little to nothing about Flex seal and would be a little worried how it would hold up. I admit to some bias here, but it seems almost too good to be true. I you do want to add some kind of sealing coat, also check out Gluvit.
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There is a special primer for aluminum, especially bare aluminum, would be best to use that. If your old paint is still stuck on good then just plain Rustoleum primer will be fine. Actually, unless you want it to last forever, most any will probably suffice. On my jon boat, I just used Rustoleum exterior on everything and after over 5 years still looks like the day it was finnished, but it does sit out if the sun and weather....
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Probably to meet some gov't requirement !! Add some sheet foam where you can fit it in..
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Paint/Primer: I did what Ray Clark did(nice job, Ray). Scotch-Brite mini-grinder wheels from Harbor Freight. Bare metal. But I did two vinegar washes, then primed with Martin-Senour Zinc Chromate spray primer, from NAPA. I used Tractor Supply Majic spray paint for the color coats. Three years later, it still looks good. I got asked again last week if my 65-year-old boat was new?
Foam: As one that has swamped his tin boat, I would recommend replacing the foam in the bow with sheet foam. All you can get in there. And, in the seats, if you can. Any old foam should be replaced with new closed cell. A local lady gives away the thick medical shipping coolers. Really good, thick foam. I got twelve and cut them into flat pieces and crammed them into the seats, before putting my flat plywood deck on. I calculated that I added about 325 pounds of lift. When my boat swamped, in the Lower Laguna Madre, it floated with the bow about 6 inches above the water and the stern just at deck level, even with my 110 pound outboard. Without the foam, it would have sunk! Game Wardens towed it to my boat ramp, and I got it on my trailer. Motor cranked right up! I have since added more foam, giving it about 75 more pounds of lift. Put in all the foam you can, and wear your life jacket! Have fun! TexasJim, in Rockport
Foam: As one that has swamped his tin boat, I would recommend replacing the foam in the bow with sheet foam. All you can get in there. And, in the seats, if you can. Any old foam should be replaced with new closed cell. A local lady gives away the thick medical shipping coolers. Really good, thick foam. I got twelve and cut them into flat pieces and crammed them into the seats, before putting my flat plywood deck on. I calculated that I added about 325 pounds of lift. When my boat swamped, in the Lower Laguna Madre, it floated with the bow about 6 inches above the water and the stern just at deck level, even with my 110 pound outboard. Without the foam, it would have sunk! Game Wardens towed it to my boat ramp, and I got it on my trailer. Motor cranked right up! I have since added more foam, giving it about 75 more pounds of lift. Put in all the foam you can, and wear your life jacket! Have fun! TexasJim, in Rockport
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This is what I used on my '65 Dura Craft:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-1-gallon-1-gallon-paint-remover/kln3/gar2000After that Aircraft Stripper removed the old layers of paint, I hit the boat with a pressure washer and scrubbed it good with green scotch brite pads. When it was thoroughly dried, I used SEM SELF-ETCHING PRIMER, GREEN
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/cata...erm=4580977758703380&utm_content=All Products
Finally I used good old Rustoleum Gloss Smoke Grey for the top coat. That job was completed in 2014 and it still looks good.
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I guess swamping a boat is a real risk, although I've been sailing all my life I only saw 1 boat swamped on the ocean in an Americas Cup Race back in the 90's. The keel broke on the Kiwi's 50 ft'r and it sank. But I'm not so familiar w/ motor boats ... yet.
I just picked up a used 1964 Feather Lite Alum. "V" bottom, complete w/ 64' Evinrude 9.5 hp tiller motor. I'm restoring it all and through all the video's and forum articles I see, it seems everyone is talking about the importance of using added foam.
Why are all the boats swamping and sinking is what I'd like to know ?? My grandpa use to have a bateaux back in the 70's that had zero foam and a 25 hp merc but I don't remember it ever filling up w/ water much less risk swamping ?? What am I missing ??
Thanks for your generous consideration,
Sincerely .......................
