1989 Fisher Marsh Hawk 3V

[wmk0002]

I bough this 1989 Fisher Marsh Hawk 3V a couple of weeks ago as potential winter project. It is a 16' x 48" mod-v riveted hull. The boat is all aluminum aside from the transom and the hatch lids which is nice. It has two small ~10 gallon livewells, one at the rear of the front deck and the other between the seats at the helm. This boat originally had a console but it was previously removed. The side mount for the remotes is still there but has been moved forward and they put the factory switch panel from the console in it. The ID plate is really hard to read but I believe it says it is rated for 4 people or 560 lbs, a 70hp outboard, and 990 lbs total for persons, motor, gear. IMO 70hp just seems ridiculously high but it doesn't really matter as I would ultimately be powering it with a 25hp outboard. The boat has similar dimensions as my somewhat bare bones 1648 flatbottom with a 25hp so my hope is that this boat being all aluminum doesnt weigh too much more and I can get performance not too far off from it.

I think I got a fair deal on the boat. Not a steal by any means and I think given the amount of work it needs, and some unfortunate findings I'll touch on in later posts, that restoring it and adding on a motor would tally up to about the same price as these seem to be going for in water ready condition. But should be a fun project nonetheless. As the pictures show the carpet is basically halfway off already. All 4 seats are trash. The wood on the hatch lids is rotten with one hatch being totally rotted out and destroyed. The transom will eventually need replaced as it has a soft spot on one side but its probably good enough to support a motor for a water test. Livewell and bilge pumps do not work and the batteries are no good either. The trolling motor does work and it came with a couple other trolling motors that I need to work on and sell. It did not include an outboard as previous owners used it on some all electric lakes. If you look closely you can see the bottom of the hull has some type of flex seal like coating on it. I saw that in the ad and assumed it leaked and that was just the quick and easy solution someone took vs pulling up the floor and bucking rivets or getting some Gluvit or epoxy down in there. After investigating it better at home there are some places where there is some fiberglass patching and maybe a piece of metal plate from a previous repair. In my next post I'll go into more detail on this and what I found.

The trailer is pretty solid. I did have to buy new tires just to get it home so I bought a pair of wheel/tires combos for $90 each and changed them out at the sellers house. The bearings had bearing buddies and turned smooth so I pumped some grease in them and checked them a couple times on my way home and they made it without any excessive heat or other issues. It will need new lights/wiring, bunks/carpet, some carpeted pieces to go on the inner fenders, and a winch strap and safety chain. The winch itself and the jack are in decent shape. The side bunk in first pic is bent and has a hack welding job holding it on. Also the gusset for the winch mount is broken and needs repaired. The spare that came with it is also trash. Not counting adding a spare, I think I can fix up the trailer for fairly minimal cost since the new tires are already on it.

My overall goal is to eventually totally restore the trailer including new paint and everything. For the boat, I just want to get it fully functional and leak free. I'm not concerned with going all out on it. I'm thinking new carpet on the decks and floor, maybe putting some vinyl on what was previously bare aluminum surfaces, redoing the hatch lids to all aluminum, rewiring it and getting livewells functioning properly and then adding back in a console and steering system with cables. I dont have any plans to extend the front deck to the console or add a rod locker or anything too crazy like that. I have a mid 90's model Mercury 25hp with remotes that had low compression in one cylinder and piston scoring. Will be pulling it apart this winter and seeing if it is aluminum transfer or actual scoring and hopefully repairing with either new rings or a used powerhead off ebay or somewhere

 

[LDUBS]

4 people or 560 pounds. I don't think I know three other adult males who along with me would come under 560#. Haha.

 

[wmk0002]

4 people or 560 pounds. I don't think I know three other adult males who along with me would come under 560#. Haha.

Yeah lol. That's 140 lbs per person. Would be a tight squeeze with any more than 2 adults I bet. Im actually wanting this second boat because I have 4 kids - 9, 9, 4, and 1 yo so I don't have the real estate for everyone in my flatbottom. Right now most fishing trips are me plus the oldest 3 and its tough. Couldn't see adding one more to the mix when the baby gets a few years older and the twins are in middle school lol. Hoping if I had a console rig like this my wife would feel comfortable driving it and be able to take one kid with her while I load up the other 3 with me. If not her than my dad. We only live about 10 minutes away from boat launch for the local hp restricted lake so taking two boats and two tow vehicles there is no big deal.

 

[LDUBS]

Yeah lol. That's 140 lbs per person. Would be a tight squeeze with any more than 2 adults I bet. Im actually wanting this second boat because I have 4 kids - 9, 9, 4, and 1 yo so I don't have the real estate for everyone in my flatbottom. Right now most fishing trips are me plus the oldest 3 and its tough. Couldn't see adding one more to the mix when the baby gets a few years older and the twins are in middle school lol. Hoping if I had a console rig like this my wife would feel comfortable driving it and be able to take one kid with her while I load up the other 3 with me. If not her than my dad. We only live about 10 minutes away from boat launch for the local hp restricted lake so taking two boats and two tow vehicles there is no big deal.

Nothing better than family time!

 

[wmk0002]

I still need to update on the structural issues I have found but im going to hold off a bit longer. I removed the floor and a few other things for a better view and there are a lot of underlying issues with previously done poor repairs and other new cracks. I recently put on my Yamaha 30 and got it running nicely after having it on a stand in the shop for a couple of years. So my plan is to take the boat to the water on a calm day and see how it performs with that motor on it and if there are any bad leaks. I want to test it out because if performance is lacking with this motor I may abandon my restoration plans and sell the hull and find a new one to build. I removed a lot of water logged pour foam from under the floor but there isnt too much more foam to take out so maybe it will be light enough to have good results.

I tested the livewell pump and bilge and both were shot so I ordered new ones. I'd like to install both and test the livewells when I do the water test and then have a working bilge for safety. The current issue is all this dang flex seal stuff. Eventually I will have to remove it all if it is to be welded on and I need clear it off the transom so I can install the livewell pump. Any advice on removing it? I tested out a few non abrasive discs in my drill chuck and they worked but soooooo slowly. A wire wheel would prob be best but I don't want to take off aluminum or make the surface look bad when Im done. Would love some input here.

Hopefully I can test the boat out in the next week and then I can do a full in depth post on the results and go into details on the structural issues I have found. My teaser on that is simply that it will 100% require welding and a lot of it. $$$

 

[MrGiggles]

A chemical stripper may work on that crap. A stainless cup brush on a grinder will work as well but you will have to be a little careful, they can be kinda rough on aluminum.

Regardless that is a fine little boat, nice layout, will make someone an excellent fishing machine. I would think 30hp is the bare minimum, those hulls are pretty heavy for what they are.

 

[beagle]

Depends on what your performance requirements are. 70hp would probably get it around 40mph with a couple of medium size guys in it when it was new and probably be borderline scary in any kind of chop. I'd think mid to high 20's with a 30hp and the kids on board and provide a decent ride without scaring the crap out of them. It's 500 pounds of aluminum unloaded... looks like a jon boat, built like a bass boat. It's supposed to be what, about 6 foot wide at the widest part of the beam? That's a good sized boat. A buddy of mine's dad (you know, that guy! lol.) had a 17 foot Tracker about the same era, size, and design with an 80hp Mercury on it. It would go a little over 40 according to the old timey air guide speedo with me and him in it. I thought they were insane rating that boat for 80hp. It was a little spooky at speed. I kept a life jacket on the whole time I was in that boat, and I was 20 years old and bulletproof, if you know what I mean.

My late 70's Alumacraft 1544 "Bass Pro" is rated for a 65 and is the same style. Aluminum deck and siding. Basically, though, a 500 pound jon boat. It had a 35 Evinrude on it when I bought it and the guy said it would go 28-30 with two guys in it. Naturally, I found a 65 for it but probably won't know until spring what it will do. The bottom has some hook in it that I'm not entirely sure about - I expected the last foot of hull to be dead flat. It may have been put there to keep it from porpoising. The condition of the hull can make or break performance expectations.

I doubt any speed records will be broken with a 30hp Yamaha on yours, but I wouldn't be too shocked to see 25-30 with a light load and a few mph less with a full load. I'd expect it to plane nicely without having to be full throttle. These are all swinging a wild guess numbers on what you will get, but it should be plenty unless you're trying to boil the water with speed. Full transparency, I tend to throttle back more when there are passengers, especially kids on board. If it will plane without being full throttle when loaded, that's good enough for me. Hope it works out for you!

 

[wmk0002]

A chemical stripper may work on that crap. A stainless cup brush on a grinder will work as well but you will have to be a little careful, they can be kinda rough on aluminum.

Regardless that is a fine little boat, nice layout, will make someone an excellent fishing machine. I would think 30hp is the bare minimum, those hulls are pretty heavy for what they are.

I may experiment a little with some chemicals. To a degree it can peeled off which sounds like a pain but may be easier in the long run.

 

[wmk0002]

Depends on what your performance requirements are. 70hp would probably get it around 40mph with a couple of medium size guys in it when it was new and probably be borderline scary in any kind of chop. I'd think mid to high 20's with a 30hp and the kids on board and provide a decent ride without scaring the crap out of them. It's 500 pounds of aluminum unloaded... looks like a jon boat, built like a bass boat. It's supposed to be what, about 6 foot wide at the widest part of the beam? That's a good sized boat. A buddy of mine's dad (you know, that guy! lol.) had a 17 foot Tracker about the same era, size, and design with an 80hp Mercury on it. It would go a little over 40 according to the old timey air guide speedo with me and him in it. I thought they were insane rating that boat for 80hp. It was a little spooky at speed. I kept a life jacket on the whole time I was in that boat, and I was 20 years old and bulletproof, if you know what I mean.

My late 70's Alumacraft 1544 "Bass Pro" is rated for a 65 and is the same style. Aluminum deck and siding. Basically, though, a 500 pound jon boat. It had a 35 Evinrude on it when I bought it and the guy said it would go 28-30 with two guys in it. Naturally, I found a 65 for it but probably won't know until spring what it will do. The bottom has some hook in it that I'm not entirely sure about - I expected the last foot of hull to be dead flat. It may have been put there to keep it from porpoising. The condition of the hull can make or break performance expectations.

I doubt any speed records will be broken with a 30hp Yamaha on yours, but I wouldn't be too shocked to see 25-30 with a light load and a few mph less with a full load. I'd expect it to plane nicely without having to be full throttle. These are all swinging a wild guess numbers on what you will get, but it should be plenty unless you're trying to boil the water with speed. Full transparency, I tend to throttle back more when there are passengers, especially kids on board. If it will plane without being full throttle when loaded, that's good enough for me. Hope it works out for you!

Those numbers are what I had in mind. I wish I had a good long shaft 25hp motor to try out though as that's what would ultimately go on it. I'm going to attempt to find an early 2000's Yamaha 25 3 cylinder, which is same motor as my 1988 30hp, to use for this rig but that may be tough to source. I have Tohatsu 40 carbs, Yamaha 40/50 reed cages, CCMS reeds, and a spare intake to bore out for this motor I would hang onto in case I want to mod the 25 later. Even if I don't go that far, you can bolt up the 30hp exhaust tube and carbs and make those a 30 easy enough.

 

[wmk0002]

I haven't done much of anything to this boat since the last post, but finally got back to working on it this past week. I'll grab some pics but none to add at the moment. I removed the rear decking which is just some insanely thin aluminum laid over welded up angle and pour foam. I had intentions of leaving the foam in, however, I'm having second thoughts. For one the foam under the cockpit floor was waterlogged and the bottom layer of this area looks like it was at one point too. Boat stayed in my shop for the past 8 months so it probably dried out but would saturate if it ever got wet again. The other reason is that I cannot figure out how to get the the bench and center livewell out. I think it was tack welded in and then pour foamed meaning I cant remove those with out access to whats covered in foam. Since the boat may need some serious welding work plus bucking/sealing of rivets I need to expose the whole bottom of the interior hull.

I'm sure its covered at nauseam on this forum but how do yall like to remove pour foam? I was first going to try my somewhat new oscillating tool. I have the scraper attachemnt on it now and it was great for removing carpet and old glue. I'm curious how the cutting blade would do.

Another side note/question is that I need to keep my eyes peeled for a used side console since this boat didnt include one. If I cant find one, does anyone know anyone (maybe a board sponsor) who fabricates them? What about some good pre-manufactured ones? I traded a guy a spare Yamaha tiller for his Yamaha remotes and cables so all I lack is the steering components to be able to rig my 30hp Yamaha tiller up when the time comes.

 

[Stand Up]

I haven't done much of anything to this boat since the last post, but finally got back to working on it this past week. I'll grab some pics but none to add at the moment. I removed the rear decking which is just some insanely thin aluminum laid over welded up angle and pour foam. I had intentions of leaving the foam in, however, I'm having second thoughts. For one the foam under the cockpit floor was waterlogged and the bottom layer of this area looks like it was at one point too. Boat stayed in my shop for the past 8 months so it probably dried out but would saturate if it ever got wet again. The other reason is that I cannot figure out how to get the the bench and center livewell out. I think it was tack welded in and then pour foamed meaning I cant remove those with out access to whats covered in foam. Since the boat may need some serious welding work plus bucking/sealing of rivets I need to expose the whole bottom of the interior hull.

I'm sure its covered at nauseam on this forum but how do yall like to remove pour foam? I was first going to try my somewhat new oscillating tool. I have the scraper attachemnt on it now and it was great for removing carpet and old glue. I'm curious how the cutting blade would do.

Another side note/question is that I need to keep my eyes peeled for a used side console since this boat didnt include one. If I cant find one, does anyone know anyone (maybe a board sponsor) who fabricates them? What about some good pre-manufactured ones? I traded a guy a spare Yamaha tiller for his Yamaha remotes and cables so all I lack is the steering components to be able to rig my 30hp Yamaha tiller up when the time comes.

Try using a long sharp utility knife to cut big chunks out, then employ the oscillating tool with the scraper bit as this would be least likely to damage the hull. A blade with teeth would not be friendly. The last thin layer of foam could be removed with a paint scraper. Choose one that's pliable if possible. This job will be a great work out.

 

[wmk0002]

Try using a long sharp utility knife to cut big chunks out, then employ the oscillating tool with the scraper bit as this would be least likely to damage the hull. A blade with teeth would not be friendly. The last thin layer of foam could be removed with a paint scraper. Choose one that's pliable if possible. This job will be a great work out.

Got started on it tonight. The oscillating tool helped break the top seal and then I moved to a flat pry bar which worked well. Need to try a long knife next like you suggested. It's a mixture of saturated and dry foam. The wet foam seems to comes out easier so at this point the more that's wet. the better.

 

[Stand Up]

Got started on it tonight. The oscillating tool helped break the top seal and then I moved to a flat pry bar which worked well. Need to try a long knife next like you suggested. It's a mixture of saturated and dry foam. The wet foam seems to comes out easier so at this point the more that's wet. the better.

You can buy an adjustable length utility knife with a blade for cheap. The knife will extend out about 4" or so to allow for a deep cut. Be very careful with razor knives or it's off to the emergency room.