7.62 Battle Rifles

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JMichael said:
Hmm hadn't thought about any forums dealing with garands but that's an interesting thought. I've run across that Civilian Marksmanship program site before but never understood how it worked or what their prices were. Is there a main page or something that guides you through their site?

I bought three Garands this week from CMP at the South Store in Anniston, AL..
There's two ways to purchase from them, directly at the stores (Anniston and Camp Perry, OH) or you can mail order. I prefer to pick out my own guns, and I was working near Columbus, GA this week so I took time to wander to Anniston and I picked out a very nice HRA Field Grade and two Winchester Field Grade guns..

The thing to remember about CMP is that you're going to get a functioning, safe firearm. CMP isn't some fly by night outfit, but a government program that's been around for a LONG time and is selling US military firearms to legal citizens which pays for youth training and shooting competitions, as well as other activities.

If you mail order, I'd recommend at least a Service Grade.. You will end up with a great weapon, that will more than likely be wearing a brand new stock and will shoot well. Most SG rifles are in very, very good condition, and if there's an issue they'll make it right by either sending you a small part to repair it, or sending it back for repair or replacement (very rarely is this needed)..

To qualify you need to be a member of a CMP affiliated club, which can be anything from the Garand Collectors Association ($20 and they contact CMP with your membership info the day you join) to a local club that holds matches. (there are a lot if you look on the website)

Unless you live in a couple states, you do the paperwork, have it notarized, send it in, and WAIT... And WAIT... And WAIT.. Then, one day you'll get an email that your order is in process and after a short wait you'll get a phone call from FedEx that a package will be showing up the next day and that an adult will need to sign for it..

The FedEx guy will bring you a box like this. (the longer one.. The short one is the old Carbine box and they're out of the Carbines)

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In the box will be a nice case like this

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And in that box will be something similar to this.. as well as certificate of origin, a safety flag open chamber indicator, an enbloc to hold ammo, and instructions..

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I'd also recommend ordering CMP's HPX Greek ammo when ordering the rifle.. The price is right and it's made for Garands.

And THEN, if you want.. Attend a match and have fun and meet fun people who love shooting!!

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This is what the CMP store used to look like.. The racks are a little more bare right now due to demand, but getting better..

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My best friend has a DPMS AR in 308 and I am constantly amazed at how accurate that platform is! Using 150-grn a Power Shok softpoint ammo he put 10 into an honest 1-1/4" group @ 100Y.

I myself have a Nat. Match M1 in 308 that will shoot sub-MOA w/ aperture sights. My 30-class battle rifle is a custom PSL, where I had the barrel cryo'd (frozen -300F) and now it groups well!
 
Here's my 7.62 rifles:

US M24 (Rem 700) with 5R mil-spec barrel, and Leupold 6.5-20X50 M1 Long Range Tactical scope. Also shown is a Bushnell range finder, and the NV scope that attaches to the picatinny rail.

Screen Shot 2015-01-17 at 9.55.41 AM.png


But this is still my favorite:
Screen Shot 2015-01-17 at 9.56.26 AM.png

This is my PSG1 rifle. It's built from an HK-91, using a heavier trunnion (barrel support) reinforcing rails welded into the receiver grooves, a 30" Hart 416 stainless barrel (1 in 12 twist with '95 JGS Palma Match Chamber) a PSG-1 stock, Williams Set Trigger, and a picatinny rail that accepts all kinds of optics. The scope shown is a Leupold 6.5-20X50 M1 Long Range. The gunsmith that did this modification was a DOD contractor for 20 years. During his time as a gunsmith, he built rifles that placed in national, and international events, like Camp Perry. He built rifles for elite police and military units.

On a good day, with the right ammo, and the right shooter, this particular rifle will break 4" clay pigeons at 800 yards. That's 1/2 MOA at 1/2 a mile.
 
anyone have a good way of removing cosmolime from an sks? i'm going to wrap my stock in shop towels,vacuum seal it in my foodsaver and submerse it in hot water and see if i can't sweat most of it out,however the interweb has a million different ways to do the steel parts.i'm looking for safe/fairly quick.
 
bcbouy said:
anyone have a good way of removing cosmolime from an sks? i'm going to wrap my stock in shop towels,vacuum seal it in my foodsaver and submerse it in hot water and see if i can't sweat most of it out,however the interweb has a million different ways to do the steel parts.i'm looking for safe/fairly quick.

Wrap the stock in rags and place in a hot car during the summer or wrap it and place in an oven on a low heat(160 to 180 degrees) for a while if it will fit in the oven. Let the heat sweat the cosmoline out of the stock. I wouldn't wrap it in food saver bags because then you will be sealing the cosmoline in the bag. As for the steel parts I use a plastic tub with a mixture of Super Clean and hot water and let it soak for a while. I slosh it around every so often as it is sitting in the mixture. Then rinse with very hot water. You will still have some left in the nooks and crannies of your parts. Then you can take a heat gun or hair dryer and heat the stubborn stuff to get most of it off.
 
KMixson said:
bcbouy said:
anyone have a good way of removing cosmolime from an sks? i'm going to wrap my stock in shop towels,vacuum seal it in my foodsaver and submerse it in hot water and see if i can't sweat most of it out,however the interweb has a million different ways to do the steel parts.i'm looking for safe/fairly quick.

Wrap the stock in rags and place in a hot car during the summer or wrap it and place in an oven on a low heat(160 to 180 degrees) for a while if it will fit in the oven. Let the heat sweat the cosmoline out of the stock. I wouldn't wrap it in food saver bags because then you will be sealing the cosmoline in the bag. As for the steel parts I use a plastic tub with a mixture of Super Clean and hot water and let it soak for a while. I slosh it around every so often as it is sitting in the mixture. Then rinse with very hot water. You will still have some left in the nooks and crannies of your parts. Then you can take a heat gun or hair dryer and heat the stubborn stuff to get most of it off.

Thank you for the idea. That sounds like it would work great.

One of my old teachers did an experiment on how hot the interior of a vehicle gets in the summertime. It was 140 after three hours in 90 degree temperatures. That oughta cook it outta there :mrgreen:
 
bcbouy said:
anyone have a good way of removing cosmolime from an sks? i'm going to wrap my stock in shop towels,vacuum seal it in my foodsaver and submerse it in hot water and see if i can't sweat most of it out,however the interweb has a million different ways to do the steel parts.i'm looking for safe/fairly quick.

i have used nitro solvent to get it off the metal. remove the stock and use a shark handheld steamer to getit out of the wood, or you can set the stock out in the sun in the middle of the summer.
 
i ended up using crud cutter and mineral spirits on the metal.fyi,the hot water/foodsaver plan worked like a charm and didn't stink up the whole house.lots sweated out after an hour of sitting.i guess i don't need to wait untill summer to fire the gun :roll: .shot 80 rounds thru it on sunday and a little more leached out so i broke it down and recleaned it. i have a feeling i'm going to be doing that every time i fire it for the next few times.
 
i was planning on hittting the gun shop for a new crate of 7.62 ammo.i saw on the website they have a deal on 1320 rounds and a russian refurb 54 tula laminate sks for $375.my other sks is now a blacked out tapco with a bushnell red dot. its amazing how fast a guy can blast through a 1440 round crate. i can't resist the deal.can't hurt to have a spare right?
 

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