Adding a Stereo and other equipment.

[freiguy]

I just ordered a 1652 Alweld with an Opti 115/80jet that is to be delivered in about a week and I had some questions about potential modifications. I plan to add a stereo, graph, and cigarette lighter to the console right away. Ive never wired a boat before and was wondering if anyone had diagrams etc. I planned to run the trolling motor, stereo, and graph all off of the same toggle and battery. Suggestions? The opti alt makes 60amps which I believe is about 1/3 to 1/2 of what most cars and trucks produce. Is there a way to figure out what it can handle? Does making it a 24 or 36volt system make a difference? As of now I just have a cranking battery and a trolling motor battery and would like to keep it that way to save on weight.

 

[tnriverluver]

Run the graph and the stereo off the cranking battery and you should be fine for several hours. The biggest issue is going to be how much amperage the stereo uses. Some are current misors and some are current hogs. Check your specs!

 

[Wallijig]

I just ordered a 1652 Alweld with an Opti 115/80jet that is to be delivered in about a week and I had some questions about potential modifications. I plan to add a stereo, graph, and cigarette lighter to the console right away. Ive never wired a boat before and was wondering if anyone had diagrams etc. I planned to run the trolling motor, stereo, and graph all off of the same toggle and battery. Suggestions? The opti alt makes 60amps which I believe is about 1/3 to 1/2 of what most cars and trucks produce. Is there a way to figure out what it can handle? Does making it a 24 or 36volt system make a difference? As of now I just have a cranking battery and a trolling motor battery and would like to keep it that way to save on weight.

Will be fine running stereo and graph on same toggle, but they do not make one that could handle current of trolling motor. Only way you could use toggle is use with a relay to handle current. But the relay would be drawing some current then also. I would hook trolling motor directly to batter with inline fuse and just pull fuse, when not in use, if worried about draw in idle state.

 

[tnriverluver]

I just ordered a 1652 Alweld with an Opti 115/80jet that is to be delivered in about a week and I had some questions about potential modifications. I plan to add a stereo, graph, and cigarette lighter to the console right away. Ive never wired a boat before and was wondering if anyone had diagrams etc. I planned to run the trolling motor, stereo, and graph all off of the same toggle and battery. Suggestions? The opti alt makes 60amps which I believe is about 1/3 to 1/2 of what most cars and trucks produce. Is there a way to figure out what it can handle? Does making it a 24 or 36volt system make a difference? As of now I just have a cranking battery and a trolling motor battery and would like to keep it that way to save on weight.

The outboard does not charge the trolling battery in most cases, only the cranking battery. The charging system is plenty capable of running your stereo, graphs, pumps, and such. The Trolling motor is a separate system of it's own on the trolling battery.

 

[lowe1648]

I hope you let us know how that thing runs in jet boat section. That thing has to move . I get 25-28 in my 1652 with a 40/28 yamaha

 

[Brian B.]

Opinions are like hiney holes- but I don't like running anything but the outboard's starter off the cranking battery. Just my opinion, but- its the cranking battery. You are safer drawing down your trolling motor battery vs your cranking motor. I would rather have an over-size trolling battery/ (s) than listen to music/ run FF and four hours later I can't crank the big motor.

 

[tnriverluver]

Opinions are like hiney holes- but I don't like running anything but the outboard's starter off the cranking battery. Just my opinion, but- its the cranking battery. You are safer drawing down your trolling motor battery vs your cranking motor. I would rather have an over-size trolling battery/ (s) than listen to music/ run FF and four hours later I can't crank the big motor.

Bass boats etc are usually wired where the accessories run off the cranking battery. Graphs especially because of interference that can be generated by electric trolling motors. Unless he is planning on running high powered amplifiers and such most stereos would not drain a battery enough after an entire day to even be noticeable. . If you do a little running from time to time the battery is completely replenished

 

[Brian B.]

I believe the Skeeter has the two depth finders ran with the cranking battery- but that's it, they don't have a real large draw though. I may have been the lucky one on the interference thing- in most of the Jons I have ran I have used just one battery for everything (rope starts) and I couldn't ever see any evidence of interference. I did keep the power and tx wires from running parallel, that eliminates a lot of that emi as well. I almost wonder if the earlier sonar units neglected to use shielded tranny wire, I could definately see that creating a potential for emi interference.

Congrats on the Alweld- heck of a nice product.

 

[Badbagger]

Just finished figuring out the same thing for my SeaArk. I'll end up with 4 batteries. 2 for my trolling motor which is a 24V system. 1 battery for cranking and my bilge pump and the house battery for my Lowrance HDS 12 Touch, Garmin GPSMPA 720 and Lenco Trim Tabs. To avoid issues, I'm running all of my electronics on a dedicated line direct from the battery to the console with a Blue Sea breaker/on-off switch and a Blue Sea 5025 Fuse Box/Buss. One set of wires to contend with and the electronics will feed off of the 5025.

You may want to consider an ACR so you'll charge BOTH the starting battery and your house battery at the same time. I've got 2 3 bank chargers going in.
One for the 24V setup and a second for the 12V setup. The dedicated house battery for the electronics will eliminate any issues with the electronics and the cranking/starting battery. I've seen and read far to many stories lately of issues that folks had with electronics and they SWORE their electrical system was straight - Just from my months of reading, NOT a good idea to run your electronics from your cranking battery and the SAME with your trolling motor battery - Hence my need for 4 batteries and a hell of a lot of weight. But, it'll be done right.

 

[freiguy]

Thanks for all the feedback. Im taking it out for the first time today. Ill try to remember to post my speeds tonight. Prob wont get to electronics till next week but I will post some pics.

 

[fender66]

Thanks for all the feedback. Im taking it out for the first time today. Ill try to remember to post my speeds tonight. Prob wont get to electronics till next week but I will post some pics.

You better post pics. We're going to hold you to that. :roll:

 

[jvanhees]

x2 on the wiring diagram!

 

[freiguy]

Got 35 upstream and 40 down at 5000rpm. Sound about right?

 

[freiguy]

Do these rpms and speeds sound right? 5000 rpm is on the lower side of the rpm range. Shouldnt I get at least 5500?