Alumacraft 1232 Jon Boat (Miss Peach) - Complete!

[super_dork]

I recently got a sweet deal on a 2002 Alumacraft 1232 with a trailer, 2 6HP outboards (already have a working 6HP Johnson), a trolling motor and more. I sold everything except the boat and trolling motor, bought a new Harbor Freight trailer and bow mount trolling motor. I assembled the trailer last night and am starting work on the decks. I have been looking at the various projects on here and have gotten some good ideas. I think that I'm going to try to make it similar to Donaldsonmb's 1960 1232 Eldor Project https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=18593.

I've been reading about the issue with a high deck on a 1232, but it is mostly for my wife to lay out on. I'm actually looking at making it modular so I can add the high deck when she comes then take it out and have a low deck when it's just me.







Here's a link to the album. I'll be adding pics as I go.
https://picasaweb.google.com/100696660778494092748/MissPeach?authkey=Gv1sRgCJTi6crAx_XaRA#

Anyway, just thought I'd share. I hope to keep this project moving. I've got all sorts of stuff on order. Other than the deck, my plan is to add a bow and transom trolling motor, wired in lights, storage and a fish finder. Maybe a portable livewell, but I generally catch and release, so that's optional at this point.

For the trailer, I've got the factory bunks on it and the boat sits really high. Any thought on how to mount new bunks that will sit lower (maybe just above the rollers).

 

[super_dork]

Updating with trailer pics. I looked at several of the Harbor Freight trailer mods on here and made a few adjustments. Enjoy.









Just need to move the trailer jack to the other side so it doesn't get in the way of the winch crank on the same side.

 

[gillhunter]

Good looking project! My wife also uses the front deck to lay out on when she tires of fishing.

You might want to check out the link below and reconsider you winch and bow stop positioning. You could end up with your boat in the back of your tow rig if you had a winch or winch strap failure.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19707

 

[super_dork]

Thanks for the reply.

I went back and forth on the positioning. In this pic you can see that the bow stop sat higher (prior to changing the bunks) so it worked the right way. I will probably install a bow eye just below where the bow stop will hit so that I can hook it properly. I was just rough fitting everything last night, but I guess I had a brain fart on the position.

 

[wwoodard]

Is possible to raise your crank up, to make more level with the eye?

 

[super_dork]

Not really about where the eye will go at this point. The front deck is solid, so I would have to cut it open in order to get in and add an eye there. As far as moving the wench up, I'm not sure. I really have a clearance issue with the handle hitting the front of the boat as I crank. This was the best position I could make work without having the fabricate something.

 

[wihil]

I'd get rid of that non-load bearing carabiner you've got in between the boat and the winch. Those things are notorious for failing under even a small load. Would be fine for a bowline, but not for the winch.

Other than that, looks like a great job on the trailer!

C

 

[super_dork]

I'd get rid of that non-load bearing carabiner you've got in between the boat and the winch. Those things are notorious for failing under even a small load. Would be fine for a bowline, but not for the winch.

HAHAHA!! I knew someone would notice that. It turns out that the clip on the strap in the winch doesn't fit the boat handle so just for test purposes I grabbed the carabiner from my camera bag and threw it on there temporarily. I am certainly going to do something better there.

 

[super_dork]

Not really about where the eye will go at this point. The front deck is solid, so I would have to cut it open in order to get in and add an eye there. As far as moving the wench up, I'm not sure. I really have a clearance issue with the handle hitting the front of the boat as I crank. This was the best position I could make work without having the fabricate something.

I just thought about this a bit more and I think that I may be able to add a bow eye and use the wings (nut piece) from a toggle bolt to make it cinch up tight. Anyone ever ran into this issue?

 

[Brine]

I'd just cut an access hole in the side of the bow seat. Maybe 4"x8"??? It would also allow you to reinforce a bolt-on bow eye from the inside with a piece of aluminum plate etc. Might be a consideration if you're planning on weighing the boat down.

You could add another 2 x 4 to the bow stop to give you that much more clearance with the winch handle.

 

[super_dork]

I made the suggested changes to the winch position. It worked better than I anticipated. I'm going to add a ring of some sort to the handle to be able to clip the winch on to. Some day I may add a bow eye, but for now the handle is pretty sturdy.

I proceeded to work on the front deck. My goal is to have a platform my wife can lay on, storage underneath and seat mount that I can use for a low seat for travel and a high seat to lean on for trolling.

After several iterations I ended up attaching a 2x2 to the bow seat then using it to support 2x2's that span the gap. Then I added more 2x2's as cross braces and used them to frame up the storage hatch. I decided to make a large hatch. I ended up adding a 2x4 under the center 2x2 to provide extra support when standing. I also added 2x2's under the hatch lid that rest on the frame underneath. It all seems pretty sturdy. No one over 200 lbs will be on the front.

My next step is to frame up the middle seat to support the seat mount. I think I will use a combo of toggle bolts and 2x6's to build up a sturdy base.

Let me know what you think.

 

[super_dork]

This morning before work I went out to take a fresh look at things. I decided to see how the bow mount trolling motor would fit. It turns out that it will hit the edge of the hatch I cut out when it opens so I am going to have to rework the top corner of the opening to work better. Oh well, it's just wood.

 

[super_dork]

Well I've been in the garage sweating it out in the Houston heat every night until midnight since Sunday. I have been able to get the Harbor Freight trailer assembled and 99% complete (still think I may add a front support on the trailer just before the bow curve). I have the front deck coming a long nicely. Still have lots to do but I'm really happy with the progress.

I added the bow mount trolling motor support last night but found that it lays over the front hatch, so I'm either going to have to rework the hatch or deploy the motor each time I need to get in the hatch. I also can't decide on hinges. I've seen lots of talk about piano hinges but I really want it so the hinge is totally hidden Any thoughts?

Also, today I widened my back gate to let the 52" trailer make it into the back yard. This was a requirement from the wife so she can still park in the garage. Anyway, enjoy.

 

[super_dork]

I'm almost done! I added the back seat deck with a battery hatch. Then I cut a hole in the seat for storage. Basically all I have left is carpet and electrical panel.

So, a few things.

1) I didn't even think about weight. the max weight is 455. I would guess about 340 lbs for me and a guest leaving only 115 lbs for motor, gear and deck. I would guess I'm going to be about 200 lbs over after deck (150), motor(50), gas(25), battery(50), and trolling motors(35) (all estimates). Any thoughts on this? Is it really a big deal?

2) any suggestions on a a simple electrical panel with breakers and switches

3) Carpet? What's the cheapest option? Should I glue then tuck the edges in tight aroung the edges or take the decks off, wrap and staple, then attach with screws through the carpet?

 

[Ictalurus]

You'll have to figure if the weight is a big deal for you, but as far as carpet, I would take the decks off then wrap and staple. Good looking boat btw.

 

[super_dork]

Thanks! I really hope she turns out nice.

The wrap and staple is what I thought from day one but I've been waffling. I'll give that a shot.
So, do you just slit the carpet, screw the deck down then glue it back over the screw holes? I just don't want a bunch of screws showing everywhere.

If it comes down to it, I can pull out the floors and maybe rework some of the seat supports and trolling motor mount.

I just ordered 6'x20' light grey from SportsMan's Guide for $109 https://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/lancer-enterprises-inc-marine-carpet.aspx?a=790775 as recommedned in the materials link page. I also ordered carpet glue. We'll see how it goes.

I also just ordered the electrical. I got 2 bus bars, 2 50 amp manual reset breakers and a switch panel from Amazon. They should be here Wednesday.

Only 8 days in on this deal and almost ready to get wet! I just hope my wife doesn't decide to add up all the trips to the store. I've been splitting them between about 4 places so it's not as obvious

 

[Ictalurus]

I just screw right through the carpet and into metal/wood/whatever. The screw head usually buries itself into the carpet and is not so noticable. I did notice though that once secured for the first time, if you unscrew and screw back in, the heads will show.

 

[super_dork]

Last night I removed the front deck and rear floor to seal with Thompson's Water Seal. I left the framing in place but coated all exposed areas thoroughly. While I had it apart, I took a bit of time to rethink the framing to see about reducing the weight some. It was good to get a fresh look at it since my inital framing was more just to get everything to fit and be sturdy. This time, I focused on structure and was quite successful. I weighed each piece just to get an idea. For the front seat, I had used 2 2x6 treated boards running 3/4 of the seat width and another 3 treated 2x4's on top running the full width. Total, this was just over 30 lbs of lumber. I was able to reduce this a couple 2x2's and about 4' of 2x4 cut to create the base for the seat. For the back floor deck I was able to reduce from about 6 2x2's to 3 1x2's with the same amount of support.

I am very happy with how it's turning out. Tonight I'll take some pics. I hope to remove the rear decking and take the same weight reduction approach and seal it all up. Then I have to cut carpet gaps for the hatches. I also should be getting in some electrical today so that should be in also.

I ordered carpet, but I'm in the process of trying to cancel the order. I found it cheaper at Home Depot, so as soon as I get notice that they have canceled, I'm going to get the Home Depot carpet. I am really hoping to have it all done by this weekend, but who knows.

 

[Ictalurus]

Don't mean to be a wet blanket here, but you may want to rethink the use of treated wood in your boat. Going to non-treated wood will also reduce your weight, but will completely throw your schedule out of the window :wink:

 

[super_dork]

Thanks for the input. As I originally was researching on the site, I thought I read that treated was the way to go, but have since realized that maybe that was a mistake. At this point I'm just going to lieave it and see how she floats. Worst case, I'll get on the water and it will sink like a rock and I'll have to wade. Certainly the next time I will make some different choices.