Aluminum v boat paint

[Boogman]

I’m wanting to paint my 14 foot aluminum boat, it has one coat of old paint which I’d like to remove but would take a while. So instead, I want to paint over it but I’m not sure what kind of paint/primer to use or whe to buy it. any help would be appreciated

 

[Rampaige]

If you're going over existing paint, you won't need to prime. If you have bare metal spots, you'll want to prime with an aluminum primer. I've had good luck with Mueller Zinc Chromate primer for projects, both marine and non-boat related. You can find a spray can of the primer pretty cheap and just hit the bare spots. You'll hear it over and over: the key to a good finish is all in the prep. You will get what you put into it as far as effort and attention to detail. I'm going to be giving Rustoleum Topside Paint a shot in the next few weeks but I truly can't recommend a finish paint because I've only done small scale projects and have been able to use spray cans. I plan to tip and roll the outside with the gloss paint, and roll the inside with a flat paint.

 

[Axhammer]

Total Boat has a paint that doesn’t require a primer. They have several colors, I painted my duck boat with their Khaki. Scuff sand it read good, clean it with acetone real good, and roll it on.

 

[freeisforme]

Never remove paint that's well adhered, especially on aluminum.
Scuff the old paint with Scotchbrite, prime any bare spots with zinc chromate primer and paint.

 

[thill]

I agree with Freeisforme, except that I always test an area with the paint I am using. I put some heavily on the EDGE of the painted areas and let it soak for a few minutes, and then check it.

If the old paint sticks hard and isn't affected - PERFECT. That is probably the factory paint and it is the best primer you could ever want. Feather the edges smooth with some 400-600 grit and GO.

If the paint starts bubbling or loosening, then it's not the original paint, and it probably has to go, unfortunately. You might try an epoxy primer over it, and it might still be fine to leave, but I generally use stripper and scrape it off with a plastic scraper and start fresh.

 

[mirrocraft16]

The guy I bought my Mirrocraft Lake Fisherman 16 from owned a body shop and had repainted it in the original color right before I bought it. (It was sanded down when I first looked at it). The orginal paint had a good bit of dock scrapes and some chips from where the anchor had been laid on the bow deck
The inside was white, the outside kind of a school bus yellow color.
They sanded down the whole hull inside an out and feathered out all the chips, they spot filled a few minor dings and primed the shiny bare spots with a yellow etching primer and then a sealer, following it right away with 5 coats of urethane based color. They painted the bow deck the original off white but used a chip proof coating, and painted the bottom of the boat with the same type of paint in gray. They did the sides and bench seats i the original off white. That was about 12 years go now and it still looks great now.
Personally, I would never have gone through all that work for a fishing boat and I still feel I got the boat for cheap, far less than what all that labor was worth if I had paid someone to do it.
(I got the boat for $600 cash with a running motor and a bunk trailer).
The guy was retiring and had bought himself a 31ft center console so he just wanted to sell off the aluminum boat and retire to fish. Two years later he was asking me if I wanted to sell the Mirrocraft because he hated fishing big water and could never find anyone to go with him. By then I knew the 16ft was a keeper and would never part with it.

 

[AlanT]

Total Boat has a paint that doesn’t require a primer. They have several colors, I painted my duck boat with their Khaki. Scuff sand it read good, clean it with acetone real good, and roll it on.

I've also used Total Boat Aluminum paint. Lightly sand or scuff, depending on the oxidation of your existing paint, acetone to clean, then paint. Holds well, but not as good as factory paint. I don't think any aftermarket paint are as good as factory paint.

 

[thill]

The guy I bought my Mirrocraft Lake Fisherman 16 from owned a body shop and had repainted it in the original color right before I bought it. (It was sanded down when I first looked at it). The orginal paint had a good bit of dock scrapes and some chips from where the anchor had been laid on the bow deck
The inside was white, the outside kind of a school bus yellow color.
They sanded down the whole hull inside an out and feathered out all the chips, they spot filled a few minor dings and primed the shiny bare spots with a yellow etching primer and then a sealer, following it right away with 5 coats of urethane based color. They painted the bow deck the original off white but used a chip proof coating, and painted the bottom of the boat with the same type of paint in gray. They did the sides and bench seats i the original off white. That was about 12 years go now and it still looks great now.
Personally, I would never have gone through all that work for a fishing boat and I still feel I got the boat for cheap, far less than what all that labor was worth if I had paid someone to do it.
(I got the boat for $600 cash with a running motor and a bunk trailer).
The guy was retiring and had bought himself a 31ft center console so he just wanted to sell off the aluminum boat and retire to fish. Two years later he was asking me if I wanted to sell the Mirrocraft because he hated fishing big water and could never find anyone to go with him. By then I knew the 16ft was a keeper and would never part with it.

MAN, boats are cheap in NJ!!!

 

[thill]

I've also used Total Boat Aluminum paint. Lightly sand or scuff, depending on the oxidation of your existing paint, acetone to clean, then paint. Holds well, but not as good as factory paint. I don't think any aftermarket paint are as good as factory paint.

I agree with this. Some manufactures will tell you the paint they use. I think Crestliner uses a 2-part epoxy paint over their etching primer. It will usually wear down but never peel off, unless the boat is badly corroded.

Factory paint is VERY good stuff and makes the best primer ever.

 

[Boogman]

Total Boat has a paint that doesn’t require a primer. They have several colors, I painted my duck boat with their Khaki. Scuff sand it read good, clean it with acetone real good, and roll it on.

I’ve heard that total boat is pretty good paint and seems to be the go-to for a lot of small boat owners. I kinda wish they had more of a selection of colors. I’m not a fan of anything camouflage and would like to find some blue paint compatible with an aluminum boat.

 

[Chris Tidwell]

I built a 23' aluminum hard top boat and had it painted with Awlgrip paint system. Beautiful finish but literally one of the most expensive parts of the build. I've touched up a few spots with their "roll on" version. It's easy to use, really hard when it dries but wow it's expensive. I'm currently working on a 12' Starcraft and will be using Total Boat Wet Edge in gloss white. I wanted a gloss finish so I went with the wet edge. I gave them a call and their suggested process for an aluminum boat with gloss finish is: sand/scrape loose paint down to clean aluminum, Acid etch wash, 2 part aluminum barrier coat epoxy primer, then the Wet edge top coat. I will be painting to just the water line and leave the bottom raw.

 

[Ray Clark]

I used Rustoleum Farm and Implement Paint. I went that route due to cost. This is available in most home centers and my most recent purchase cost about $17/quart. It comes in a variety of colors and I was able to roll and brush it on. I wasn't looking for a factory-perfect finish, just something that made the boat look decent. The process is described in my build thread in my signature block.

I've found good durability with the Farm and Implement paint. It seems to be a very hard coating. I painted the upper portion of the hull in 2021 and I have had absolutely zero flaking or peeling to this point. The black-painted lower portion of the hull is in its first season.

 

[thill]

I also go with Rustoleum paint, but I use a $15 Harbor Freight HVLP sprayer and additives.

The "Secret Sauce" is adding a capful of Japan Drier and thin it with Acetone to get it to dry and cure VERY quickly, compared to without. The Japan Drier is a hardener and accelerator, and the Acetone helps to evaporate the solvents.

This mixture will give you a super-glossy finish that will be dry to the touch in an hour or so, and be a tough finish within a few days

That being said, it is VERY important to lightly sand with 400 grit and use a good aluminum primer first. Rustoleum makes aluminum primer in a rattle can that works well, but there are many others you can use. I use this one because I know they will be compatible.

Set your gun using paint thinner to get your spray pattern decent. Mix up your paint, use a straining filter, and then lay down a "dust coat", not trying for full coverage, just a light, powdery coat that you can see through. Let it flash off for maybe 2-3 mins, then do it again, this time going for better coverage. Let it flash, and then go for your first "wet" coat. Let it flash for 5 mins, then do another wet coat.

With a spray gun, it goes shockingly fast. I can paint the whole side of the boat in maybe 2 mins, if that.

I typically use 3-5 coats, letting the solvents flash off for about 5 mins in between. You don't want a lot of liquid buildup, but you also don't want it to dry too fast.

After it's looking good, go clean up your gun and mixing stuff carefully. This paint system will be dry to the touch in about an hour, and will actually be hard the next day. Still, I would wait 5 days in the summer before doing anything with the boat to let the paint fully cure.

This is by far the best system I have ever used to paint a boat or anything this is compatible with, for that matter. Some guys use this system to paint cars, and they look shockingly good. That is where I saw the instructional video, in a car-painting YouTube video.

I hope this helps. I'll never go back to a rattle can or brush/roller as long as I can do this.

 

[Boogman]

I also go with Rustoleum paint, but I use a $15 Harbor Freight HVLP sprayer and additives.

The "Secret Sauce" is adding a capful of Japan Drier and thin it with Acetone to get it to dry and cure VERY quickly, compared to without. The Japan Drier is a hardener and accelerator, and the Acetone helps to evaporate the solvents.

This mixture will give you a super-glossy finish that will be dry to the touch in an hour or so, and be a tough finish within a few days

That being said, it is VERY important to lightly sand with 400 grit and use a good aluminum primer first. Rustoleum makes aluminum primer in a rattle can that works well, but there are many others you can use. I use this one because I know they will be compatible.

Set your gun using paint thinner to get your spray pattern decent. Mix up your paint, use a straining filter, and then lay down a "dust coat", not trying for full coverage, just a light, powdery coat that you can see through. Let it flash off for maybe 2-3 mins, then do it again, this time going for better coverage. Let it flash, and then go for your first "wet" coat. Let it flash for 5 mins, then do another wet coat.

With a spray gun, it goes shockingly fast. I can paint the whole side of the boat in maybe 2 mins, if that.

I typically use 3-5 coats, letting the solvents flash off for about 5 mins in between. You don't want a lot of liquid buildup, but you also don't want it to dry too fast.

After it's looking good, go clean up your gun and mixing stuff carefully. This paint system will be dry to the touch in about an hour, and will actually be hard the next day. Still, I would wait 5 days in the summer before doing anything with the boat to let the paint fully cure.

This is by far the best system I have ever used to paint a boat or anything this is compatible with, for that matter. Some guys use this system to paint cars, and they look shockingly good. That is where I saw the instructional video, in a car-painting YouTube video.

I hope this helps. I'll never go back to a rattle can or brush/roller as long as I can do this.

I’m thinking I’d like to give your process a try. What kind of rust-oleum paint do you use?

 

[thill]

I used the Industrial in the gallon cans. Big box stores will tint it for you, if you ask.

I'll look for that video and post it, if I can find it... There are SO many, it's hard to find one a year later

 

[airshot]

I have used the rust o leum in the can myself on my Jon boat. Rolled it on, then rattle canned the can't reach spots. That was eight years back and no issues, no peel, cracking or anything. Will never win as a show piece, but many compliments on how good it turned out. Prep is everything !

 

[thill]

I couldn't find the video... I searched "Rustoleum Japan" and came up with many people who use the same methods to paint almost anything.

It is very good paint. I hope the price doesn't keep going up!

 

[Boogman]

I couldn't find the video... I searched "Rustoleum Japan" and came up with many people who use the same methods to paint almost anything.

It is very good paint. I hope the price doesn't keep going up!

I’m gonna go with rustoleum and have it tinted to whatever color I decide also bought a cheap paint sprayer so we’ll see how that turns out since I’ve never used one. It’s actually kinda difficult to find Japan drier but finally found it and ordered from online. Can’t wait to finish this paint job and put her in the water finally. Your help is much appreciated

 

[thill]

I found the Japan drier on Walmart.com and also Amazon, but I'm sure there are other places.

When you get your sprayer, watch a couple of YouTube videos on how to set them up and get the spray pattern right using paint thinner onto carboard. Once you do that, when you put paint in it, it only takes a minute to get it spraying well, then you can go to town.

I think you are going to be thrilled with the results and also how easy it is. Compared to using spray cans, it's almost like cheating. I told a buddy that it's like going from a stick welder to a MIG, if you know what that means. You can do it with either, but the MIG is way easier, once you get it dialed in.

Definitely post your experiences here as you go. Will be interesting to follow along with your progress.

 

[Boogman]

I should have my Japan drier delivered tomorrow or the next day then I’m ready to mix and get it done. I will for sure post progress pictures from start to finish. Thanks a lot for the help