Any idea what year this Alumacraft is?

[bgsweet]

There is no hull ID on this new-to-me Alumacraft, which I think means that it's pre-1972. I have the old registration numbers but the boat was last registered so long ago that the DNR wants to verify the hull ID. The problem is that there is no hull ID on the boat (we've done an exhaustive search). The DNR can issue a new hull ID but they want to know the year that the boat was manufactured. I'd be taking a stab in the dark, which would be ok enough to get me a new hull ID, but I'd prefer to be accurate if possible.

It's 12" long and the beam is about 4'.

Does anyone have an idea what year it is?

 

[Steve H.]

That's the biggest 10 footer I've seen. Three full bench seats? I'm guessing that's at least 12', prolly 14'.

 

[Shaugh]

There should be a number engraved on the edge of the center brace at the transom.

 

[bgsweet]

That's the biggest 10 footer I've seen. Three full bench seats? I'm guessing that's at least 12', prolly 14'.

Just remeasured it and it's a 12 footer. My mistake. I've corrected the original post.

 

[bgsweet]

There should be a number engraved on the edge of the center brace at the transom.

Are you saying that the etching should be on the center brace itself or on the transom near the edge of the center brace?

 

[Shaugh]

 

[bgsweet]

IMG_1783.JPG

Thanks for the tip. I'll have a look again and see if there's anything stamped into the rib.

 

[Kismet]

Kinda reminds me of an "A" model, but mine was 14' .

Let us know.

 

[bgsweet]

Unfortunately there is nothing etched into the rib. Thanks for the ideas. Guess I'll head to the DNR to get a new hull ID!

 

[Kismet]

Hey BG....

you've got registration numbers.

Call the DNR or whatever agency you have, tell them you got an old shed boat, and want to register it. They GOTTA have a record of a previously-registered craft, and in my experience, they can be remarkably accommodating if you are extraordinarily courteous. They get beat up upon a lot.


Let us know.

Be safe.

 

[bgsweet]

That's exactly where I started. The DNR could verify that the registration numbers were for an alumacraft boat, but that's about it. The last time it was registered was long enough ago that they have no record of a hull ID so they wanted to verify it. I've had a few conversations with them (all very cordial) and they said once I've exhausted all efforts to locate a hull ID on the boat, they can generate a new one and I'll need to affix it to the hull in a tamper proof way. I'm going to have some plates made and will rivet them in. Here is the guideline in my state (WI):

State and Federal regulations require you to permanently affix this number in two places. The primary hull identification number in watercraft with transoms shall be affixed to the starboard outboard side within 2 inches of the top of transom, gunwale, or hull deck joint, whichever is lowest. The duplicate hull identification number shall be affixed in an unexposed location on the interior of the vessel or beneath a fitting or item of hardware.
-Each hull identification number must be carved, burned, stamped, embossed, molded, bonded, or otherwise permanently affixed to the watercraft so that alteration, removal, or replacement would be obvious.
-Use of a plate must be fastened so that removal would cause scarring or damage to surrounding hull area.
-Hull identification number characters must be no less than 1/4 inch in height and not attached to any removable part.

 

[KYfisherman56]

Yes that's right because I couldn't find numbers on my boat trailer they issued me a metal plate with more numbers nut now I have to pay separate taxes on trailer of $4.00. My boat is a 16 ft Alumna Craft flat bottom bass boat that I redid it in 2001. New 1/2" plywood, new Marine carpet, Boat was painted Battleship gray. Boat was rewired, added two fourway gang switches with USB hookups and a cig hookup. And mounted in a painted to match boat square box and attached to decks. Has new gang switches with fuses in dash. Also switch for timer to aerator that is noth new to. Has two led spot lights on front. Also two string like led lights, one is red to the outside edges of boat. Second one is white down inside edge to one side. Has two manual anchors with two ten pound mushroom anchors.

 

[airshot]

I remember those from my childhood days, once you get all the paperwork sorted out and ready to splash her, be carefull!! That design is one of the old round bottom styles and can feel quite tippy if your not used to small light aluminum rowboats. Looks to be in nice shape, just go slow and get a feel for her in the water..

 

[mbullen]

I understand this thread has some age on it, but for the sake of future lookups...

Vintage Alumacraft had an alpha-numeric serial system. The letter denoted the model type, the numerals denoted the production number. Both are found on the spine of the transom knee brace. (not the ribs)
If it's not readily visible, try a charcoal etch on paper or a light and mirror hack.
But it's there from the factory and the information can be used to accurately date the vessel. Alumacraft kept all their old records and will share that info freely through their customer service department.


*also fwiw, the factory serial number isn't the same as the post-1972 HIN which was a Coast Guard format of 12 digits, so registering an older-than-1972 boat is different in each state. Some states will use the boat's original serial, and some states will make up their own 12 digits. (so it's not uncommon for any state registration info to be wildly inaccurate) That being said, I understand there might be a federal change coming in the near future that standardizes the 12-digit requirement for the old boats. However, it will still be a process unique to each state.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Going through the same thing with my Alumacraft. Not sure how old it is, but it's from the days before they had hull IDs. I'm in Indiana and the BMV are being real jerks about all this. I sent in a pack of forms including a checklist that I carefully ran down to ensure I didn't miss anything. I got it back a few days ago saying I had omitted another damned form. They did supply it at least, so filled it out and sent it back in with a letter explaining I was trying hard to obey the laws of the state, but they sure weren't making it easy.

The only no. on my boat is on the transom brace too. If I had not seen a picture I'd have never found it as it was covered with paint. A little sanding revealed: F 11711

I tried registering it using that no. and they said no dice, that is NOT a hull no. So now going through a long drawn out procedure to basically just allow me to give the state some of my money! You know if this were a 50' cruiser I could maybe understand the red tape, but this is basically a row boat AND I had to send them a picture of it, so no doubt this is not some nefarious scheme to steal an expensive boat.

I contacted AlumaCraft but they ignored my request for a model year. If anybody could tell me how old mine is I'd be grateful.

OK sorry about the rant. Hopefully the original poster had better luck where he's at. All this just to legally put a motor on the back.....sheesh.

 

[mbullen]

Going through the same thing with my Alumacraft. Not sure how old it is, but it's from the days before they had hull IDs. I'm in Indiana and the BMV are being real jerks about all this. I sent in a pack of forms including a checklist that I carefully ran down to ensure I didn't miss anything. I got it back a few days ago saying I had omitted another damned form. They did supply it at least, so filled it out and sent it back in with a letter explaining I was trying hard to obey the laws of the state, but they sure weren't making it easy.

The only no. on my boat is on the transom brace too. If I had not seen a picture I'd have never found it as it was covered with paint. A little sanding revealed: F 11711

I tried registering it using that no. and they said no dice, that is NOT a hull no. So now going through a long drawn out procedure to basically just allow me to give the state some of my money! You know if this were a 50' cruiser I could maybe understand the red tape, but this is basically a row boat AND I had to send them a picture of it, so no doubt this is not some nefarious scheme to steal an expensive boat.

I contacted AlumaCraft but they ignored my request for a model year. If anybody could tell me how old mine is I'd be grateful.

OK sorry about the rant. Hopefully the original poster had better luck where he's at. All this just to legally put a motor on the back.....sheesh.

hey LaqueRatt,

Your Model F is going to fall in the 1955 production year.

In 1955, Alumacraft produced 2850 F hulls ending with number 12845 (#9986 - #12845)
Technically, your state clerk is correct, it's not a hull number. Not in their definitions of hull numbers anyway.
It's a factory model/serial number. It translates to Model F, Production #11711 and it's unique to that boat.
Each state is different with registering the older pre-1972 boats (when the federal HIN program began).
Some states use this serial number, some add zeros to fill in the 12 empty boxes on their paperwork, and some create their own state-unique HIN.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Thank you sir. Pretty amazing when you think about it. How many other products this old are still in use today? Now I don't feel quite so old, owning a boat that's been around longer than I have!

 

[St.Clair Flatsrat]

There is no hull ID on this new-to-me Alumacraft, which I think means that it's pre-1972. I have the old registration numbers but the boat was last registered so long ago that the DNR wants to verify the hull ID. The problem is that there is no hull ID on the boat (we've done an exhaustive search). The DNR can issue a new hull ID but they want to know the year that the boat was manufactured. I'd be taking a stab in the dark, which would be ok enough to get me a new hull ID, but I'd prefer to be accurate if possible.

It's 12" long and the beam is about 4'.

Does anyone have an idea what year it is?

I had one similar and it was a 1954. Can you claim the boat as a salvage and create your own data plate. I once salvaged a KMart 12 semi-v and the State of Michigan allowed be to do that.