Anyone try Rhino Liner or LINE-X on an aluminum deck?

[Still Afloat]

So now that I’m finished with log cabin staining, mowing 10 acres every few weeks and other summer chores I’m ready to get back in the shop to complete some boat projects. I started replacing the deck on the North River last spring and the project failed when the new marine plywood delaminated. Now I’m going with an aluminum deck. The problem is that it’s now probably too cold to apply epoxy paint mixed with grit. So on to my question.

Has anyone used a profession application of Rhino Liner or Line-x on an aluminum deck? If so, were you happy with the results?

 

[mbullen]

You're likely to get a wide variety of answers on these products as many folks use bedliners and flexseal products to seal their leaking aluminum boats.
In my experience, however, they rarely work on aluminum in the long term.
These products are largely in the urethane family of compounds and they stick to themselves really well but not always to the substrate. What looks like a consistent coating may actually be leaving pockets between the compound and the aluminum which allow for corrosion to begin....and then the removal of urethanes is worthy of an entire thread by itself. It ain't fun.
Of course, I'm sure there are folks that are experiencing good results at the moment.
My experience comes from rescuing vintage boats and having to reverse these decisions after the fact. I've now begun to just walk away from even the cool projects if any type of bedliner or flexseal is involved.
Just my thoughts on it.

 

[LDUBS]

You're likely to get a wide variety of answers on these products as many folks use bedliners and flexseal products to seal their leaking aluminum boats.
In my experience, however, they rarely work on aluminum in the long term.
These products are largely in the urethane family of compounds and they stick to themselves really well but not always to the substrate. What looks like a consistent coating may actually be leaving pockets between the compound and the aluminum which allow for corrosion to begin....and then the removal of urethanes is worthy of an entire thread by itself. It ain't fun.
Of course, I'm sure there are folks that are experiencing good results at the moment.
My experience comes from rescuing vintage boats and having to reverse these decisions after the fact. I've now begun to just walk away from even the cool projects if any type of bedliner or flexseal is involved.
Just my thoughts on it.

You say it very well. I hate to see bed-liner products on boats because people misuse it to hide problems. I can see it used for a floor covering, but the adhesion and water intrusion issues you mention would be a big concern.

I know it wasn't asked -- I am a huge fan of vinyl. Easy on the feet, non-slip, looks good, easy to clean, and durable. Like the epoxy paint, I suspect the glue involved should be applied within a certain temperature range.

 

[Still Afloat]

You're likely to get a wide variety of answers on these products as many folks use bedliners and flexseal products to seal their leaking aluminum boats.
In my experience, however, they rarely work on aluminum in the long term.
These products are largely in the urethane family of compounds and they stick to themselves really well but not always to the substrate. What looks like a consistent coating may actually be leaving pockets between the compound and the aluminum which allow for corrosion to begin....and then the removal of urethanes is worthy of an entire thread by itself. It ain't fun.
Of course, I'm sure there are folks that are experiencing good results at the moment.
My experience comes from rescuing vintage boats and having to reverse these decisions after the fact. I've now begun to just walk away from even the cool projects if any type of bedliner or flexseal is involved.
Just my thoughts on it.

I appreciate that input. I’ve had really good results with professionally applied bedliners on my pickups. Although, I don’t think I want a coat of it that’s an 1/8” thick. No intention of using a do it yourself bedliner type product.

I also saw some epoxy based products on the Rhino Liner website.

 

[Still Afloat]

You say it very well. I hate to see bed-liner products on boats because people misuse it to hide problems. I can see it used for a floor covering, but the adhesion and water intrusion issues you mention would be a big concern.

I know it wasn't asked -- I am a huge fan of vinyl. Easy on the feet, non-slip, looks good, easy to clean, and durable. Like the epoxy paint, I suspect the glue involved should be applied within a certain temperature range.

I suppose vinyl is possible but, I’m not sure how a guy would wrap the edges. Carpet is a definite no and IMO EVA falls into the same category.

I gave up on wood, planning on buying a couple of 1/8” x 48 x 120” sheets of 5052 aluminum when we get a dry day so I can pick it up. That’s why I’m thinking of epoxy or urethane based high traction finishes.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I like your idea of putting it on the floor but not the actual hull.

 

[Still Afloat]

I like your idea of putting it on the floor but not the actual hull.

Yes, that’s plan. I agree that it’s royal PITA if you ever decide to remove it.

 

[airshot]

As a non skid sub floor yes, but using that on the hull itself whether inside or outside...nope !! Never !

 

[LDUBS]

I suppose vinyl is possible but, I’m not sure how a guy would wrap the edges. Carpet is a definite no and IMO EVA falls into the same category.

I gave up on wood, planning on buying a couple of 1/8” x 48 x 120” sheets of 5052 aluminum when we get a dry day so I can pick it up. That’s why I’m thinking of epoxy or urethane based high traction finishes.

I would say it definitely needs to be wrapped over the edges. Since it cannot be stapled on the underside, I would guess a contact cement would be used. But in all honesty, I don't know.

I also saw the epoxy flooring stuff on the Rhino liner site. Interesting.

 

[Still Afloat]

I spoke with a local Rhino Liner guy. Told him what I was doing and he thought the urethane product would wear better than epoxy but, he could do either. He can spray the urethane based from 1/16 to 1/4” thickness. I’m thinking about 1/8” thickness. Estimated price $810 for 54 to 55 sq ft.

 

[Still Afloat]

I could do an epoxy base finish myself for under $200 plus fuel to try to keep the shop at 50 degrees during the daylight hours for a few days. I might be able to pull that off if I work quickly. Our days are running 45 to 50 degrees and nights are ranging from the low to high twenties. That’s almost balmy for late October but, it won’t last. With the pellet stove on high the shop will stay above freezing at night but, not above the minimum application temperature of 50 degrees.

The surrounding mountains are getting snow. It will be here soon.