Best product to clean electrical connectors

[Douglasdzaster]

Stick with the Fluid Film.

Don't use Isopropyl alcohol anywhere near Lexan or plexiglass (or your eyeglasses). It will remove protective coatings and can cause fracturing of some plastics.

Windex (blue) is an awesome cleaner around boats, wires, connectors.

Once the gold plating is gone the base metal will deteriorate quickly in electrical connectors. When you spray Fluid Film into an electrical connection that has corrosion, it will bubble and get the corrosion out of the way. Fluid Film is food safe and is perfect for boats. Use it on your hydraulic rams to keep rust off that can ruin seals.

If you must substitute for Fluid Film, try LPS-1 for penetrant / lube, LPS-3 for sealing

For stuck metal that has corrosion, use iodine (povodone 10% topical usp is good), and it can be in your first aid kit.

I thought the instructions on the Fluid film said to spray after connections are made. If I spray it directly into the connections on the outboard like the CDI unit for example would I need to remove the Fluid film afterwards? Will it interfere with current flow?
It has worked awesome keeping corrosion at bay. When I first got the 1992 Yamaha there was a couple of small spots on the head that had no paint and corrosion setting in as well as some bolts corroded. Fluid film stopped it in its tracks.The only problem I have with it is it stays sticky. I have to be careful hooking and unhooking the trailer because I have the stuff inside my receiver, on the ball , the trailer jack and hitch itself. Is there anything that forms a dry corrosion protected coating?

 

[Al U Minium]

Douglasdzaster,

I have always sprayed Fluid Film (and shake it well!) directly into connectors and to battery post. Let it bubble and dislodge oxidation, then connect. You can wipe off the excess if you want. The film will protect until it gets rubbed off or worn away. For example, shake the can, spray on wrenches, then wipe off excess. it will protect metal finishes quite some time.

For dry corrosion protection spray galvanizing paint, paint, hard wax.

To address current flow with Fluid Film, most connectors use a mechanical wipe and the contact area is generally quite small. I expect the film to yield and leave a lasting electrical connection protected by the film.

Digital High Impedance DC Voltmeters with a mV range are pretty inexpensive. You can check the connection resistance in your battery terminals, lugs, buss bar terminations by measuring across the connection. Check out a YouTube video that explains the method. I tested some on my car recently and got 28mV from the negative terminal of the battery to the ground strap on the engine mount after replacing a corroded grounding strap. 28mV was in an acceptable range for voltage drop.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Douglasdzaster,

I have always sprayed Fluid Film (and shake it well!) directly into connectors and to battery post. Let it bubble and dislodge oxidation, then connect. You can wipe off the excess if you want. The film will protect until it gets rubbed off or worn away. For example, shake the can, spray on wrenches, then wipe off excess. it will protect metal finishes quite some time.

For dry corrosion protection spray galvanizing paint, paint, hard wax.

To address current flow with Fluid Film, most connectors use a mechanical wipe and the contact area is generally quite small. I expect the film to yield and leave a lasting electrical connection protected by the film.

Digital High Impedance DC Voltmeters with a mV range are pretty inexpensive. You can check the connection resistance in your battery terminals, lugs, buss bar terminations by measuring across the connection. Check out a YouTube video that explains the method. I tested some on my car recently and got 28mV from the negative terminal of the battery to the ground strap on the engine mount after replacing a corroded grounding strap. 28mV was in an acceptable range for voltage drop.

Thanks for the information. When I first started using it I found that the More I shook it up the better. I think I’ll stick with the FF and I have a digital multimeter. $9 a can vs. $30 is a lot better for my wallet as well.
I just re wired the entire boat. Should I just treat the fuse block over the connections or disconnect the ring terminals first? I ask because I use blue thread lock the prevent any loose ring terminals due to vibration. I just finished installing but I’m out of Fluid film and need to get this done. The fuses all have dielectric grease when installed. Definitely doing the battery switch as it is mounted next to the new switch panel and the post on it are exposed copper. All the connections on the whole set up are under the reach bench in a John boat. The battery is removed whenever the boat is not in use. The switch panel spade connectors are coated with liquid tape. I’ll spray those as well though.
With a name like Al U Minum you must know a little about dealing with corrosion. Check out my post Repair turning to rebuild. I’d give you the link but not sure how.It all started when I looked under the floor of my 1983 Monark I purchased. Give me your opinion about the corrosion I dealt with under the floor. I still have to seal off where the seats close better.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Thanks for the information. When I first started using it I found that the More I shook it up the better. I think I’ll stick with the FF and I have a digital multimeter. $9 a can vs. $30 is a lot better for my wallet as well.
I just re wired the entire boat. Should I just treat the fuse block over the connections or disconnect the ring terminals first? I ask because I use blue thread lock the prevent any loose ring terminals due to vibration. I just finished installing but I’m out of Fluid film and need to get this done. The fuses all have dielectric grease when installed. Definitely doing the battery switch as it is mounted next to the new switch panel and the post on it are exposed copper. All the connections on the whole set up are under the reach bench in a John boat. The battery is removed whenever the boat is not in use. The switch panel spade connectors are coated with liquid tape. I’ll spray those as well though.
With a name like Al U Minum you must know a little about dealing with corrosion. Check out my post Repair turning to rebuild. It all started when I looked under the floor of my 1983 Monark I purchased.
View attachment 114829View attachment 114830

Opps didn’t mean to start another reply.

 

[Al U Minium]

Your wiring looks fine. Be sure your battery Box is strapped down and well secure.

No need to break connections just spray with Fluid Film when you can. I like that you babeled your fuses

Storm approaching here fast.
Signing off for now.

 

[donbra91]

I thought the instructions on the Fluid film said to spray after connections are made. If I spray it directly into the connections on the outboard like the CDI unit for example would I need to remove the Fluid film afterwards? Will it interfere with current flow?
It has worked awesome keeping corrosion at bay. When I first got the 1992 Yamaha there was a couple of small spots on the head that had no paint and corrosion setting in as well as some bolts corroded. Fluid film stopped it in its tracks.The only problem I have with it is it stays sticky. I have to be careful hooking and unhooking the trailer because I have the stuff inside my receiver, on the ball , the trailer jack and hitch itself. Is there anything that forms a dry corrosion protected coating?

Crc electrical cleaner is good

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Your wiring looks fine. Be sure your battery Box is strapped down and well secure.

No need to break connections just spray with Fluid Film when you can. I like that you babeled your fuses

Storm approaching here fast.
Signing off for now.

I got a new can and did the fuse box. The battery switch lugs which are exposed copper 2 weeks old and looks like new. When I sprayed them to coat them it bubbled away cleaning corrosion that already started which I couldn’t see but the Fluid Film found it. Then I sprayed it in the trolling motor plug and breaker lugs and it bubbled like crazy. The trailer wire plug.
If you shake it good and keep it shook it sprays a lot thinner and more evenly not making the mess I was complaining about.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Crc electrical cleaner is good

Got me a new can of it as well. I used it yesterday to clean the connections under the hood of my wife’s car while reassembling everything after doing the valve cover gasket’s. Coil wire and sensor connectors.