Bow mount trolling motor safety switch?

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vahunter

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Hey guys,
I have an older bow mount minn Kota trolling motor with a Bigfoot switch on the deck and I've been thinking of a simple system that involves a safety switch that disables the trolling motor when in the stored position. I have no problem with fabrication but I just wanted some ideas and comments on the electrical part of it. I was thinking of the mercury style momentary kill button on their outboard tiller handles and have the motor make contact with the button when laid down.

Thanks guys!
 
Great idea.

I don't think ANY mercury switches still exist. Yet, something must presently be made to function in the same way. My furnace thermostat used to use mercury, but the newer ones do not.?????

Of course, the large current usage of a TM means you would have to wire it in so that a relay is actually shutting the system down.

This (below) is a similar discussion but focused on a pull-a-part kill switch. However, I think the thread is helpful in orienting one's thoughts.

https://www.bckfc.org/showthread.php?1399-FOR-THOSE-OUTCASTS-WITH-TROLLING-MOTORS-YOU-KNOW-WHO-YOU-ARE&s=b804caa287cc12de7e9784cdf7c6c45b

I have a TM that could benefit from your idea, too.

regards, R
 
Thanks for your comments Rich. Im no electrician but I would have thought that if I found a heavy gauge momentary pushbutton that was 'reversed' for no better word, where it breaks the connection when pressed (when motor is down) I wouldn't need a relay but I didn't know if any company made such a thing. Does that make sense? I don't mind wiring or researching how to wire a relay and push button in such a way but I was trying to avoid the extra parts that can go bad making it a more simple of a setup. Is that possible?
 
vahunter said:
Ah! A Normally Closed (Momentary Open) pushbutton is what I'm looking for...should that work?

From what you're describing, that's the type switch you'd want. But as mentioned above, I think your problem would be finding one that would carry the amount of load that would be passing through it without burning out your switch. That's why most applications that require switching that sort of amp load is accomplished using a relay.
 
In the article from the Kayak fishing site that I LINKED... one guy said he was able to get his TM to start and stop by removing the white wire...and....I think....that the white wire was small in diameter.

That statement would leave me to believe that the white wire in his TM was hooked to the starting and stopping relay portion of the TM wiring itself. ......then..... IF...that assumption is correct...you already own the relay and it is all wired up for you. It is part of your TM.

All that you'd then have to get would be a --NC-- Normally closed switch; and connect the white wire though it. It would keep your TM going all of the time, when it was in the down position.... until you triggered (opened) the switch by moving the TM to a folded/stored position.

Anyhow...that is what my simple mind is telling me right now. .What say you? R
 
The only time you would need one is when the boat was on the trailer....Being towed, or stored.

I don't see why you would need one when the motor is stowed, and your still using the boat.


Just unplug the motor, when you are done each day.
 
LonLB said:
The only time you would need one is when the boat was on the trailer....Being towed, or stored.

I don't see why you would need one when the motor is stowed, and your still using the boat.


Just unplug the motor, when you are done each day.
X2 i was wonder what your trying to do also
 
I have a plug for the motor but I constantly have to plug it in and unplug it. I duck hunt as well as fish and I have a popup blind. It's very easy to accidentally step on it or for my dog to step on it or setting decoys on it. So it makes perfect sense in my setup. It's not a matter of being lazy but it's more convenience. Too many other things to think about because it can be easy to forget. One less thing...
 
my motor guide came with a simple 2 position switch mounted under the body of the head . didn't think i needed that till i hit the foot switch by mistake one day and like to cut my toe off .now before i pull it up i turn that switch OFF . that prop might not spinn fast but theres a lots of raw power there
 
What about using a simple on/off switch that is typically used for a main system switch? They are what around $20?


KRS
 

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