Break In After A Rebuild

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BigTerp

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So I just thought about something that hasn't crossed my mind until today. Any need to break in an outboard after a rebuild? I'm boring out cylinders to .30 over and installing new, pistons, rings, etc and replacing the obvious seals, gaskets, etc. This is on a 94 50/35 Johnson. Thanks!!
 
Yes sir. THere is a break in period to allow the seals to set. I followed the breakin that Chris Carson Marine has outlined on their website since that who did my rebuild. Basically just like a new engine and need to start out slow.
 
Thanks!! My buddy is doing the rebuild, and he doesn't have a website with break in instructions (worthless) :LOL2: . What should I do for the break in? Follow what Johnson recommends for that size motor? I don't think my manual has break in instructions, but I'll have to double check.
 
At the end of an assembly line, for any engine I know of, including GM engines, the final guy starts it up and holds it at 2500 RPM for at least 30 Seconds before he finally is done with all his "Checks" and let's the throttle off. Then Restarts, just to see, then off and out the door.

In my youth we rebuilt engines (refreshed) is probably a better description.
We'd turn them over to watch the Oil, check the valve clearances.
Then pour the Coals to them. =D>

I still think it's the proper way to put a rebuild out on the line for work. I never knew what Rebuild oil was for. I never read anything that might make the Auto Industry change it's mind.
Especially when the Chrome Rings came out.

I'd change oil right after the Start-up though. =P~ In your outboard you'd check the Gear box oil.
 
Here is what I copied off Chris Carson Marine's site. This is what I used for my break in.

BREAK IN SCHEDULE
Hrs. 1-2: Trolling speed-under 2,000 rpm. Vary speed.

Hrs. 3-4: Under 4,000 rpm. Vary the speed (bring on a plane for a few minutes and off a plane.)

Hrs. 5-6: 4,500 rpm. Vary the speed.

Hrs. 7-8: Under 5,000 rpm. Vary the speed.

The first 8 hrs: Mix the oil 40:1, for a 50:1 Fuel/oil mix motor.

After the 8hrs: Go to a 50:1 mix. If this is an oil injected motor mix fuel at 100:1 during the first 8hrs. of running time. Then, verify that the oil injection is working by making sure a normal amount of oil has been used from the oil tank, before using oil injection alone. Use TCW-3 grade oil and good (FRESH) Gasoline-(Less than 2 months old.)

Thereafter: Use at any speed but avoid continuous wide open speeds until 20 hrs.

Important: Please note that we bore and hone engine blocks ourselves, and hand fit for exacting tolerances. Our rebuilt powerheads are not built ‘loose’, like mass produced factory units. Therefore, it is very important to follow our break in schedule. Disregarding the break in instructions will likely result in piston seizure, resulting in mild to major damage! Engine damage or failure caused by running the motor too fast too soon will not be covered by warranty, and this type of damage is easily detectable by compression testing or visual inspection.

Thank you for your trust in our work. Your efforts given to regular maintenance, using good oil, fresh fuel, and regular use, in addition to proper break in should result in years of dependable engine service. This is pleasure boating!

Remember: The only dumb question is the one you don’t ask. Please keep in touch; most problems are best handled fresh. This is imperative if the motor has water intrusion, from a complete or partial submersion, blown gasket or water in fuel. If the motor does not run correctly, always check the spark plugs for signs of water. If water is suspected, call immediately. If in doubt, call!

Maintenance tips:
Every six months or fifty hours: Change lower unit oil, grease all zerks, carbon treatment, check zincs, inspect steering and controls, batteries and connections, fuel filter, lines, prime bulb, propeller, and boats general condition.

Every year or one hundred hours: Also change water pump, clean carburetors or main jets, change spark plugs, change fuel filter, inspect all systems ,hull, transom, trailer, etc.
 
Thanks for the info!! How much can I run my motor while having a garden hose hooked up to the flush adapter? I'm thinking I could do at least some of the breaking in this way rather than having to put in the river. Maybe the flushing adapter isn't made for much running though??
 
Guessing I caught this too late but here is some info anyways. If you have the lower unit and prop on the motor still you can do the first hour or so of break in at idle. When you have to actually turn the prop is when you will need to put in a tank or lake. The motor will need back pressure on the prop when running. If you have the jet lower unit on it then you need to be in some water. Hope this isn't too late or is at least useful.
 
River Rider said:
Guessing I caught this too late but here is some info anyways. If you have the lower unit and prop on the motor still you can do the first hour or so of break in at idle. When you have to actually turn the prop is when you will need to put in a tank or lake. The motor will need back pressure on the prop when running. If you have the jet lower unit on it then you need to be in some water. Hope this isn't too late or is at least useful.

Thanks!! Not to late. My buddy is still working on the rebuild. No prop for this motor though, just a straight '94 Johnson 50/35. Guess I'll be hitting the river alot this summer to break her back in. Thanks for the help.
 

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