Hey y’all! Bought my first boat ever last week and sealed up the main seam with gluvit, as it had a couple of small leaks. It has set for 48 hours and dried pretty much clear. I’d like to just clear coat over the 2” strip of gluvit, as I do not need to repaint the whole boat. Is there any problem using lacquer clear coat? Or should I use an enamel clear coat on the gluvit. Thanks!
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Clear coat over Gluvit. Enamel or lacquer?
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mbullen
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Bit of an odd question to answer from my experience. Generally speaking, any top coat can be used if it's epoxy friendly, so I suppose the specific research needs to be done with your unique choices of product. Not sure a blanket answer can apply.
But that being said, Gluvit application usually requires a bare metal, sanded surface, so I've never really run into a clear coat scenario.
Also, for what it's worth, Gluvit isn't UV-protected so the typical topcoat is a paint - after which, the normal clear-coat rules apply.
Keep us informed of your decisions. I'd like to know the outcome of doing it this way.
But that being said, Gluvit application usually requires a bare metal, sanded surface, so I've never really run into a clear coat scenario.
Also, for what it's worth, Gluvit isn't UV-protected so the typical topcoat is a paint - after which, the normal clear-coat rules apply.
Keep us informed of your decisions. I'd like to know the outcome of doing it this way.
Epoxies need to be over-coated to shield it from UV rays ... not sure if the choice is lacquer or enamel as much as it is CLEAR vs COLORED.
When I had a large offshore boat with many, many pieces of brightly finished teak brightwork, I epoxied them and then varnished over them with 4 to 6 coats of varnish ... and still I would be removing a few sun damaged pieces a year and re-coating with varnish. If I as 'late' re-doing the varnish coats and the epoxy coat had sun damage ... I'd have to mechanically strip the whole piece and start again. The boat was a ;looker', but the effort and process was an absolute pain in the arse, just one 'other' chore to be done!
By the same token, I also had epoxy-coated plywood pieces (same Raka epoxy mix) painted with 2 coats of a 1-part marine paint to match my hull color and those lasted so well that I NEVER had to re-paint them! The 'tint' blocked any UV effects.
When I had a large offshore boat with many, many pieces of brightly finished teak brightwork, I epoxied them and then varnished over them with 4 to 6 coats of varnish ... and still I would be removing a few sun damaged pieces a year and re-coating with varnish. If I as 'late' re-doing the varnish coats and the epoxy coat had sun damage ... I'd have to mechanically strip the whole piece and start again. The boat was a ;looker', but the effort and process was an absolute pain in the arse, just one 'other' chore to be done!
By the same token, I also had epoxy-coated plywood pieces (same Raka epoxy mix) painted with 2 coats of a 1-part marine paint to match my hull color and those lasted so well that I NEVER had to re-paint them! The 'tint' blocked any UV effects.
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