Rectifier- Regulator failure

[InSaneFisherMan]

Noticed that my charge voltage was lower than normal. Checked service manual and the regulated voltage should be 13.5-14.4vdc @ 3000 rpm.

Checked charge coil, relays, fuses, ECM, wiring, and regulator.

All were good except, regulator inputs from charge coil. Open, when they should have been .85 - 8.5 ohms.

Will post a follow-up update, when regulator comes in and installed.

 

[wmk0002]

Just out curiosity, are you using a traditional or lithium cranking battery?

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

Just out curiosity, are you using a traditional or lithium cranking battery?

Lead acid battery.

Just replaced 7 year old battery, not sure if the bad battery caused it or a result of the failure.

 

[MrGiggles]

If the stator is open, then you should be replacing that, not the regulator.

Resistance testing these electronic components is pretty much one step above useless, really all you need to check is the AC voltage coming out of the stator with the engine running, and if the connection between the regulator and the battery is sound.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

If the stator is open, then you should be replacing that, not the regulator.

Resistance testing these electronic components is pretty much one step above useless, really all you need to check is the AC voltage coming out of the stator with the engine running, and if the connection between the regulator and the battery is sound.

Charge coils are good per service manual ohms check.

Regulator inputs from charge coils are open per service manual ohms check.

Couldn't run engine in the garage and don't want to risk any damage to charge coils, so, didn't do AC voltage checks.

Don't think Suzuki would put it in the service manual if it was useless.

 

[LDUBS]

I'm pretty jealous of that NMEA interface to the screen image.

I just keep repeating: "I don't need it. I don't need it. I don't need it."

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

I'm pretty jealous of that NMEA interface to the screen image.

I just keep repeating: "I don't need it. I don't need it. I don't need it."

That was using my phone. Tablet, obviously gives a bigger display.

 

[LDUBS]

That was using my phone. Tablet, obviously gives a bigger display.

Don't rub it in!

 

[JL8Jeff]

I had my rectifier/regulator go bad a couple of years ago and it drained my battery. I put in one of the cheap new ones and it lasted all of 1 day before taking a crap. I got a used one off Ebay and it was still working over a year later when I lost all spark. I swapped out coils, cdi box, regulator/rectifier and still no spark. I swapped the trigger and stator at the same time and it was the stator that was bad. All the diagnostic stuff kept showing wires to test that did not exist on my motor and it looks like mine was an odd combination that only showed up a couple of years so the repair manuals didn't have it. I lost 3-4 weeks of boating in the middle of the summer trying to troubleshoot it but I'm actually glad I replaced all the spark stuff with new CDI parts since the new stator might have cooked the next weak link anyway. My motor is a 94 Merc so it was probably overdue for some spark maintenance anyway. If your motor starts and runs but has low or no charge it could be the reg/rect. My motor had no spark and wouldn't start when the stator went bad.

 

[Still Afloat]

When I bought my Crestliner/115 Evinrude the charge voltage was around 18 to 20 volts as I recall. A quick CDI regulator replacement solved the issue.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

17.9-18 Vrms on each charge coil output. No output voltage is listed in the service manual.

Since the charge coils ohmm check good, the voltage is probably correct.

Hope to have regulator in soon, and have it fixed.

 

[InSaneFisherMan]

New rectifier- regulator solved the no charge voltage issue.

Here is an after replacement video.