South Sound
Member
Would you go with one sheet of coosa board for your transom or two epoxied together?
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Coosa board transom 1 sheet or 2
- Thread starter South Sound
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Didn't know what coosa board was until I just now googled it. Pretty impressive stuff. I liked what they say about it weighing less than plywood. Didn't like the cost so much!
I guess what I would ask is if they make it in the correct thickness, then why go to the trouble of laminating 2 sheets together.
I guess what I would ask is if they make it in the correct thickness, then why go to the trouble of laminating 2 sheets together.
Bob9863
Well-known member
I had to look it up too, but nice stuff I've used the cutting board tyoe plates but these look lighter and stronger.
This is probably excessive but I'd glue or bolt a piece on each side with a rubber backing plate over the two.
As a matter of fact I might order so and do exactly that.
This is probably excessive but I'd glue or bolt a piece on each side with a rubber backing plate over the two.
As a matter of fact I might order so and do exactly that.
Coosa board comes in different thicknesses.
plus - it is unfair to run a poll on this material as probably 99% of the members here have never heard of it, much less used it.
you need to be more specific as to gluing two pieces together.
the Coosa Board distributor, Boat Outfitters, is only a few miles up the road from me in Ocoee, FL.
I have used about 3 full 4x8' sheets of the 1/2" and one 4x8' sheet of the 3/4" and it is some pricey stuff - but awesome.
I made a transom for my Crestliner and the outside outboard motor plate.
I attached the outside plate with 3M-5200. big mistake. Luckily, I did not glue the inside transom board in.
here are photos of what I had to go through when it came time to remove it. it was hammers and chisels all the way.
heat only softens the 5200 but not enough for a complete removal. (without distorting the metal).
Note: this is very nasty stuff to work with using normal woodworking tools. the dust is much worse
than fiberglass and can cause severe respiratory issues if you breathe it in.
and before you start making suggestions like - why not see-saw a wire leader through it
why not burn it off - why not use acetone to soften it, yada yada yada.
like I said, I have used this stuff in several different projects and I know what works and what won't.
this material was "supposedly" to have been used on the Space Shuttles back in the 1990s.
but - NASA will never confirm nor deny such material even exists, much less if they ever used it.
this is some pretty severe stuff. very rigid, waterproof, rotproof, fireproof, bugproof, etc etc etc.
much, much stronger and lighter than the same thickness of laminated fiberglass panels.
.
plus - it is unfair to run a poll on this material as probably 99% of the members here have never heard of it, much less used it.
you need to be more specific as to gluing two pieces together.
the Coosa Board distributor, Boat Outfitters, is only a few miles up the road from me in Ocoee, FL.
I have used about 3 full 4x8' sheets of the 1/2" and one 4x8' sheet of the 3/4" and it is some pricey stuff - but awesome.
I made a transom for my Crestliner and the outside outboard motor plate.
I attached the outside plate with 3M-5200. big mistake. Luckily, I did not glue the inside transom board in.
here are photos of what I had to go through when it came time to remove it. it was hammers and chisels all the way.
heat only softens the 5200 but not enough for a complete removal. (without distorting the metal).
Note: this is very nasty stuff to work with using normal woodworking tools. the dust is much worse
than fiberglass and can cause severe respiratory issues if you breathe it in.
and before you start making suggestions like - why not see-saw a wire leader through it
why not burn it off - why not use acetone to soften it, yada yada yada.
like I said, I have used this stuff in several different projects and I know what works and what won't.
this material was "supposedly" to have been used on the Space Shuttles back in the 1990s.
but - NASA will never confirm nor deny such material even exists, much less if they ever used it.
this is some pretty severe stuff. very rigid, waterproof, rotproof, fireproof, bugproof, etc etc etc.
much, much stronger and lighter than the same thickness of laminated fiberglass panels.
.
Bob9863
Well-known member
Thats awesome, anything that strong is perfect.
You wouldn't need to remove it in most cases for the life of the biat.
You wouldn't need to remove it in most cases for the life of the biat.
Ebug
Well-known member
I recently purchased a 1/3 sheet of 1-1/2 Coosa Bluewater 26 for my scooter project. I asked the sales guy the same question about two 3/4 or one 1-1/2. He said personally he would go with the 3/4 sheets bonded together with epoxy.
I ended up getting the 1-1/2 simply because I needed the extra thickness for another project.
Interestingly the product that was shipped to me was not Coosa like I purchased, but rather Kay-Cel. Same product...different manufacturer.
Rob
I ended up getting the 1-1/2 simply because I needed the extra thickness for another project.
Interestingly the product that was shipped to me was not Coosa like I purchased, but rather Kay-Cel. Same product...different manufacturer.
Rob
I haven't checked, but there may be some tutorial videos on YouTube.
once primed and painted, Coosa Board will hold any top surface such as
carpet, vinyl coverings, etc. key word is PRIMED and PAINTED....
I have had a stack of maybe a dozen 2x2' pieces in the back of my shed
for maybe 15 years..... raw, unprimed and unpainted.
other than discoloration, there is no separation, delamination, splits or cracks.
so it holds up remarkably well in the elements in its raw state.
I am talking about the original formula that NASA used back in the '90s.
I can not vouch for what is on the market today. once a product is cloned
several times, it looses something each time it is copied so you really don't know how it
will act in the elements for another few years.
once primed and painted, Coosa Board will hold any top surface such as
carpet, vinyl coverings, etc. key word is PRIMED and PAINTED....
I have had a stack of maybe a dozen 2x2' pieces in the back of my shed
for maybe 15 years..... raw, unprimed and unpainted.
other than discoloration, there is no separation, delamination, splits or cracks.
so it holds up remarkably well in the elements in its raw state.
I am talking about the original formula that NASA used back in the '90s.
I can not vouch for what is on the market today. once a product is cloned
several times, it looses something each time it is copied so you really don't know how it
will act in the elements for another few years.
South Sound
Member
I ended up getting 1 1/2. The supplier in my town had them on sale. Cheaper than buying a board and epoxying it together. It is crazy light for an 8 x 4 1 1/2" Bluewater 26
Skunked again
Well-known member
Johnny - Why did you have to remove the coosa?
South sound - how did it go, using the coosa?
South sound - how did it go, using the coosa?
