Curly Alumacraft F 50’s ? Older?

[Tumble*Home]

Forgive me if I hv posted in the wrong place and set me straight. This is my first time other than the introduction.

I rescued this little vessel from a back yard in SWFlorida. She was ignored covered by tall grasses and full of old rainwater and leaves. The owner inherited her from a Michigan grandfather and had no interest in the boat. We traded for artwork. She, the former owner, had the most wonderful bouncy curls hence the name Curly…

After 4 years I finally am ready to embark on a mid level restoration. Curly needs a visit to the spa. She deserves it and has waited patiently for me. My intentions are to make her pretty again to the best of my ability. Then we will adventure together up the Florida rivers and watch birds and alligators.

I will need guidance from time to time. I already have learned a lot from you people, so thank you for that.

Age? She is a “F” series. She had a registration sticker as old as 59 from Michigan.

Notable:
1: she has a pair of Aluminum oars!!!! So excited to buff those up.
2: her wheel is so close to the front bench seat it would be impossible to run her from there? Totally baffled on that one.
3: she has a gazillion holes drilled in all over for who knows why ( above water line thankfully)
4: she has very little stainless, screw-wise and many screws are either rusted out or completely corroded.
5: yesterday I discovered a broken pill bottle. the cap was screwed horizontally (corroded) just under and inside front dash area. Most of bottle was cracked off. Hidden key or what else?
6: there are 3 sets of oar locks. One is so far aft that it would not hv been practical?

My plans:
1: Replace transom woods.
Q: Does the outter piece have to be ply? Can it be a solid? And if ply does it hv to be marine or even exterior if I do 3 coats of spar?

2: inside transom wood 1”. Looking for a beautiful hardwood. Recommendation?

3: painting the stripe over rub rail (where numbers are) an aqua color. The paint is Total Boat Wet Edge. I called them and they recommended Interlux 200E primer. Interlux 333 brushing thinner if necessary. (MarineMaxx)
Q:Sand in between? 320? Thoughts? Brush or roll? I am leaning to roll for fear of brush marks.

4: install floor boards and cover with marine flooring mat.

5: trailer … pretty rough

Thanks for any thoughts, Melissa

 

[airshot]

Very cool old boat, can't wait to follow along on your rebuild. Remember to post pics....can't wait to see her on the water !

 

[Canoe]

Forgive me if I hv posted in the wrong place and set me straight. This is my first time other than the introduction.

I rescued this little vessel from a back yard in SWFlorida. She was ignored covered by tall grasses and full of old rainwater and leaves. The owner inherited her from a Michigan grandfather and had no interest in the boat. We traded for artwork. She, the former owner, had the most wonderful bouncy curls hence the name Curly…

After 4 years I finally am ready to embark on a mid level restoration. Curly needs a visit to the spa. She deserves it and has waited patiently for me. My intentions are to make her pretty again to the best of my ability. Then we will adventure together up the Florida rivers and watch birds and alligators.

I will need guidance from time to time. I already have learned a lot from you people, so thank you for that.

Age? She is a “F” series. She had a registration sticker as old as 59 from Michigan.

Notable:
1: she has a pair of Aluminum oars!!!! So excited to buff those up.
2: her wheel is so close to the front bench seat it would be impossible to run her from there? Totally baffled on that one.
3: she has a gazillion holes drilled in all over for who knows why ( above water line thankfully)
4: she has very little stainless, screw-wise and many screws are either rusted out or completely corroded.
5: yesterday I discovered a broken pill bottle. the cap was screwed horizontally (corroded) just under and inside front dash area. Most of bottle was cracked off. Hidden key or what else?
6: there are 3 sets of oar locks. One is so far aft that it would not hv been practical?

My plans:
1: Replace transom woods.
Q: Does the outter piece have to be ply? Can it be a solid? And if ply does it hv to be marine or even exterior if I do 3 coats of spar?

2: inside transom wood 1”. Looking for a beautiful hardwood. Recommendation?

3: painting the stripe over rub rail (where numbers are) an aqua color. The paint is Total Boat Wet Edge. I called them and they recommended Interlux 200E primer. Interlux 333 brushing thinner if necessary. (MarineMaxx)
Q:Sand in between? 320? Thoughts? Brush or roll? I am leaning to roll for fear of brush marks.

4: install floor boards and cover with marine flooring mat.

5: trailer … pretty rough

Thanks for any thoughts, Melissa

I moved this thread to an area with better visiblity.

 

[Stand Up]

I love boats that have a "hood" up front. So cool and purposeful.
Nice boat and I hope you have good luck with the restoration.
Thanks for posting.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Welcome to Tin Boats! Please post your progress on your project.

I have that same trailer that came with a used boat. Have had it for over 20 years, with no major repairs.

I prefer exterior grade plywood that has been sealed. Both for the transom and the protective back plate.

 

[Stevum]

Melissa,
Congratulations on your excellent find. I couple of years ago I purchased a very same model. Unfortunately, it had been severely damaged in a high wind storm (boat flipped off the trailer & caved in the gunwales) but I got a great trailer out of the $100 deal. I think the steering wheel on your's - like mine, was in that position because people in the 50's had about a 30% less body mass than now days & fit behind the wheel a lot easier. This is an easy fix with a modern 13" dia. steering wheel. Most of the ones I've seen had the standard 3/4" taper on the steering shaft. The pill bottle you mentioned may have been an easy way to secure the current registration or other small documents pertaining to the boat ownership. I have used this method dozens of times to keep the right paperwork with the right boat. Just my nickel....(can't call it 2 cents anymore).

Good Luck & keep us posted!

 

[TriBull]

Regarding paint - most paints today contain levelers that practically eliminate any brush strokes or roller bumps. I used Total Boat paint on my boat. I like using a good soft brush because it’s easier to get into corners, cracks and crannies as you go. My boat came out great - honestly it looks like it was sprayed on… Good luck, Melissa!

 

[DanOStarcraft]

Awesome! Last summer I embarked on a low level restoration of a 1959 StarCraft and shared the process here on the forum. I rescued the boat as well and had a challenging time resurrecting the paperwork but finally tracked down descendants and have full live titles for the boat and trailer. It’s a work in progress.

 

[DanOStarcraft]

Here’s a quick video I did on the boat last fall.

 

[Tumble*Home]

I moved this thread to an area with better visiblity.

Canoe, I don’t know where to post. I hv some questions. Where did you move my post so I know where to go. Thanks?

Melissa,
Congratulations on your excellent find. I couple of years ago I purchased a very same model. Unfortunately, it had been severely damaged in a high wind storm (boat flipped off the trailer & caved in the gunwales) but I got a great trailer out of the $100 deal. I think the steering wheel on your's - like mine, was in that position because people in the 50's had about a 30% less body mass than now days & fit behind the wheel a lot easier. This is an easy fix with a modern 13" dia. steering wheel. Most of the ones I've seen had the standard 3/4" taper on the steering shaft. The pill bottle you mentioned may have been an easy way to secure the current registration or other small documents pertaining to the boat ownership. I have used this method dozens of times to keep the right paperwork with the right boat. Just my nickel....(can't call it 2 cents anymore).

Good Luck & keep us posted!

Hi, My brother just dropped by and we got under and noticed that the trailer is about to corrode off in the back. Same spot both sides. He is suggesting I get a smaller diameter galvanized metal tube to thread in the existing. I mean after I use my angle grinder to take off the existing welded area s. I have never welded so I would need to get that done. Weld in the new pipe and weld back on what I take off. Perhaps extend a bit? So, another step has reared its head!

Thank you

 

[FuzzyGrub]

DanOStarcraft,

Do you have a link to the motor conversion? While loud, was just interested in how they converted a vintage motor like that. I did look at Waynes site, but didn't see it there.

 

[Tumble*Home]

Regarding paint - most paints today contain levelers that practically eliminate any brush strokes or roller bumps. I used Total Boat paint on my boat. I like using a good soft brush because it’s easier to get into corners, cracks and crannies as you go. My boat came out great - honestly it looks like it was sprayed on… Good luck, Melissa!

Thank you.
Question: would you prime with Zinc Chromate?
What did you use? And do you think I have sanded enough?
I am so happy to get replies to my post. Thank you.

 

[Tumble*Home]

Regarding paint - most paints today contain levelers that practically eliminate any brush strokes or roller bumps. I used Total Boat paint on my boat. I like using a good soft brush because it’s easier to get into corners, cracks and crannies as you go. My boat came out great - honestly it looks like it was sprayed on… Good luck, Melissa!

Thank you.
Question: would you prime with

Welcome to Tin Boats! Please post your progress on your project.

I have that same trailer that came with a used boat. Have had it for over 20 years, with no major repairs.

I prefer exterior grade plywood that has been sealed. Both for the transom and the protective back plate.

FuzzyGrub, I just discovered the trailer is almost corroded through in back. I posted a video to Stevum of it moments ago. I am still learning to navigate a forum. I don’t know where the video went. I don’t see it now. Perhaps it has to be approved. Thanks for your reply

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Canoe, I don’t know where to post. I hv some questions. Where did you move my post so I know where to go. Thanks?

Hi, My brother just dropped by and we got under and noticed that the trailer is about to corrode off in the back. Same spot both sides. He is suggesting I get a smaller diameter galvanized metal tube to thread in the existing. I mean after I use my angle grinder to take off the existing welded area s. I have never welded so I would need to get that done. Weld in the new pipe and weld back on what I take off. Perhaps extend a bit? So, another step has reared its head!

Thank you

That doesn't look good. I would test other points of the bottom of the tube to make sure the rest is worth saving. It may only be that area where water sat in there. Sounds like you are in a salt/brackist waters which would accelerate corrosion. No welder, but that doesn't look like it will be an easy area to repair.

 

[Tumble*Home]

Here’s a quick video I did on the boat last fall.

Huge smile from Melissa down here in SW Fl on SPLASH day! Looks sweet on the water! Thank you for sharing I may never have found that on here.
Wondering if that light on your bow is what was on this bow hood way back? There are so many holes there. I have been stewing on what to put there to cover the holes.

That doesn't look good. I would test other points of the bottom of the tube to make sure the rest is worth saving. It may only be that area where water sat in there. Sounds like you are in a salt/brackist waters which would accelerate corrosion. No welder, but that doesn't look like it will be an easy area to repair.

poo poo

 

[Tumble*Home]

Huge smile from Melissa down here in SW Fl on SPLASH day! Looks sweet on the water! Thank you for sharing I may never have found that on here.
Wondering if that light on your bow is what was on this bow hood way back? There are so many holes there. I have been stewing on what to put there to cover the holes.

poo poo

Poo poo was supposed to be on a comment about my corroded trailer. I am still learning

 

[Tumble*Home]

Huge smile from Melissa down here in SW Fl on SPLASH day! Looks sweet on the water! Thank you for sharing I may never have found that on here.
Wondering if that light on your bow is what was on this bow hood way back? There are so many holes there. I have been stewing on what to put there to cover the holes.

poo poo

Huge smile from Melissa down here in SW Fl on SPLASH day! Looks sweet on the water! Thank you for sharing I may never have found that on here.
Wondering if that light on your bow is what was on this bow hood way back? There are so many holes there. I have been stewing on what to put there to cover the holes.

poo poo

Huge smile from Melissa down here in SW Fl on SPLASH day! Looks sweet on the water! Thank you for sharing I may never have found that on here.
Wondering if that light on your bow is what was on this bow hood way back? There are so many holes there. I have been stewing on what to put there to cover the holes.

poo poo

 

[Tumble*Home]

Could someone explain. When I post to one comment/person am I posting to everyone that replied to me? I was trying to reply to each person and it looks like I posted the same thing 3 times.

 

[DanOStarcraft]

DanOStarcraft,

Do you have a link to the motor conversion? While loud, was just interested in how they converted a vintage motor like that. I did look at Waynes site, but didn't see it there.

It’s a fun motor conversion. I’ve built some myself but this one was built by a friend of mine. It’s basically a 48v golf cart motor built into a shell from a 35hp Johnson from the 50s.

 

[boatyard]

Years ago I played around with using the motor from an electric EZ Go golf cart but it was long before the days of Li-Ion batteries.
I took the lower from a 60hp twin combined with the cover from a 70hp.
Using the same batteries that were in the working golf cart I simply made a direct drive to the driveshaft but made up an upper bearing to support the modified drive shaft. It worked okay, but would not plane a 15ft glass run about and the battery life was fair at best. It was fine for a lake with no current but if it got into any opposing current the batteries went down fast. The donor cart was from around 1996, so it was new enough to have pulse control and a controller but it lacked power. The biggest improvement we made was to increase all the battery cable sizes and to run with no cover to keep things cool but it was far from a viable boat to use.
I did a smaller set up using a large bow thruster motor, one that ran off 36v, mounted to what was basically a a home made trolling motor but with a speed controller that a buddy built to run the motor. It did as good as the 48v cart motor but still would not plane the boat. (In comparison, a 50hp gas motor on that boat was more than it needed to get on plane, and an old 115 Tower of power Merc was insanity.

I gave the second motor to an old guy with a 12ft Feathercraft who used it for fishing. I think I sold the cart motor but have thought about maybe using a larger motor from a car to power a small inboard set up to eliminate the loss of efficiency through the lower unit.

The rig in the video is impressive but the noise is also a concern. Something I considered is to use a belt drive to reduce the motor load at the top of the motor and trying it again in a smaller or lighter boat.


I had a 14ft Sears boat that looked a lot like that Alumicraft, it was a lot rougher but with a ton of sealer I made it work with an old 5.5hp back in the 70's. I think it fell off a trailer at some point because one whole corner was missing and patched with rivets, sheetmetal, and a gallon of tar. I didn't care as long as it would float then. two old bleach bottles cut into scoops served as the much needed bilge pump. I'm not sure what ever happened to it, I moved away from home back then and it was gone when I came back 18 years later. I think it got given away after sitting half sunk down by an old farm pond we used it on.

With an old pitted aluminum boat, Gluvit is your best friend. Just be sure to paint over it afterwards since it can't take direct sunlight. I'd sand and identify any pitting that needs more serious attention, bang any loose rivets tight, and chemically clean the hull of corrosion and let it dry. Fill any bigger pits with JB Weld, then sand and treat it like body filler. I'd sand the outer hull with 220 grit, wire brush around the rivets, then coat the interior with Gluvit, then pant the outer hull with zinc chromate, and then your color coat, and I'd paint the inside of the hull with something like Awlgrip or similar to further seal any potential leaks.
(Truck bed liner can also work for interior paint and its super durable but if your adding a full floor, anything more than just a heavy coat of enamel over the Gluvit would be a waste of money. I painted the interior of my current boat with spatter paint, the stuff meant for car trunks. its super abrasion resistant and looks like what the factory used).

Plywood is the best material for the transom, its far stronger than solid wood and when laminated in layers with epoxy it can last a lifetime. On a boat that size, any good exterior grade plywood will work fine, just do not use pressure treated or marine plywood, they are both treated with cupric sulfate which will cause severe corrosion issues.
The last transom I made was done with four layers of 3/8" BCX plywood. I cut and laid in a layer of fiberglass in between each layer of plywood and coated the whole thing in epoxy. I then bedded the panel into the hull with heavy coat of bed liner to seal out any water and all through holes were drilled oversize with aluminum reinforcement tubes and washers bedded into the panel with epoxy. It was severe overkill but it was going to be a forever boat. Or so I thought, until I found the next one, and the next one and so on. When I sold it, someone got a hull that was built to outlast five generations. I did the same thing for the deck and the seat tops, all done with epoxy and held in place with stainless screws and finished in a soft bed liner paint to match the hull. The outer motor plate was made from 3/8" plywood with a teak veneer also epoxy coated and pre-drilled for motor mount studs for the Johnson 35hp I hung on it. Part of the reason I sold it was that I had originally set out to just fix the boat up to use to test motors out on, but it went way beyond that and rarely got used because of it.