DIY aluminum livewell riveted together.

[Dowellz]

Has anyone tried making their own livewell out of aluminum, and instead of welding it, rivet 90 degree brackets into all of the corners and seal it with 3m 5200? Think it would hold up?

 

[DaleH]

I think it could be done ... if care was taken. But I would be sure to PRIME all surfaces where they mate together first. I also wouldn't use 5200; as take a look below at the photo Johnny once posted of the corrosion imparted to 'bare' aluminum by the application of silicone and 3M 5200.

And the reason why I would use West Systems G-Flex 650 epoxy over Steelflex epoxy is that the 650 product is truly a ‘flexible epoxy’. Having used both products, I would use 650 hands-down over 5200. Read the tip in the link below for how you can warm the metal and that 650 epoxy will 'weep' into cracks and crevices. 5200 ain't gonna do that!

See here for info on that epoxy - https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40954

So here's what I'd, if I were to attempt such a thing ...

1) Fab, cut to size, prep

2) Prime mating surfaces

3) Add 3M vinyl closed cell tape to the surfaces to be riveted together

4) "Dry fit" together and make a few positioning holes, to be secured together with Cleco fasteners (see Jay-Cee Rivets, https://www.rivetsinstock.com/)

5) Take apart, wet out and apply WS 650 to both sides of the joint - 1 joint at a time! Wait until just about kicked (starts to get tacky) and rivet that joint together.

6) Repeat on other joints/corners, then 'paint' the outside of the joint with more 650 epoxy.

TIP - If you squeeze or rivet together mating surfaces immediately - whether with epoxy or even 3M 5200 - you risk having a "dry joint" as the pressure of the build will squeeze all of your goop OUT of the joint ... which is where you want it.

On my frp boats, whenever I had to apply something subject to high stress, like a deck cleat or bollard/sampson post - it was a 2-day affair. Day 1 assemble, apply goop, and torque bolts maybe 1/2-way snug. LEAVE IT ALONE. Day 2 or 3 or later (depends highly on product used) ... come back and torque to spec. For such installs, I'd back off the nut carefully, add a 2nd washer, so it could 'spin' as the bolt/nut was torqued, but the bedding under the 1st washer remained undisturbed.

 

[RiverBottomOutdoors]

Would probably work. Jacklegged way to make one....but it would probably work.

 

[water bouy]

Worth trying but you can buy them ready made in almost any size.

https://greatlakesskipper.com/g3-white-19-x-13-x-9-inch-poly-boat-livewell-baitwell-storage-box-container

 

[Dowellz]

I got a good deal on some aluminum. So only expense now is anything needed to put it together. I might get it welded, but I was looking for opinions on if diy was a option.

 

[water bouy]

You might find a welder on craigslist who also works at home. The one I found works for a medical manufacturer and he can tig weld anything and doesn't charge much.

 

[Buckethead]

I built one of mine from the bench seat I removed. Here's the link to my build.
Buckethead's 1974 Duracraft 1720

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=21494&share_tid=26781&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforum%2Etinboats%2Enet%2Fviewtopic%2Ephp%3Ft%3D26781&share_type=t

 

[user 21876]

I use a 3M product that we use in aviation. Google 3M 8802 sealant and I usually buy the 2part kit and keep it in the refrigerator in the garage. I have never had an issue with corrosion or leaks since switching to it.