Suck it out into a 5 gal container and add it one gal at a time to your car, you'll be fine.the hammer said:Was able to find the fuel capacity is 16, so it's got between 3 and 5 gallons.
Pappy said:We deal with this on an almost weekly basis. Customers always proudly tell us they just put fresh fuel in.....
Much cheaper to drain and get known good fuel in the tank, lines and complete powerhead fuel system.
the hammer said:Pappy said:We deal with this on an almost weekly basis. Customers always proudly tell us they just put fresh fuel in.....
Much cheaper to drain and get known good fuel in the tank, lines and complete powerhead fuel system.
So, hook up the boat and drive around the block to shake up any sediment in the tank?
Pappy said:the hammer said:Pappy said:We deal with this on an almost weekly basis. Customers always proudly tell us they just put fresh fuel in.....
Much cheaper to drain and get known good fuel in the tank, lines and complete powerhead fuel system.
So, hook up the boat and drive around the block to shake up any sediment in the tank?
???
If you have sediment in the tank you have bigger issues than just stale fuel.
the hammer said:I've had some fuel since 2016 with additional added in late 2017, about 1/4 tank/1/3 left. Should I drain the tank a bit or just add some gallons to what I got and some fuel stabilizer or some such. Thanks.
Pappy said:Okay, then what I will tell you is this.
Gasoline is cheap. Powerhead damage, high pressure fuel pumps, lift pumps, vapor separators, pre-formed fuel lines, carb rebuilds, etc. are not.
I have seen and made out bills in the thousands for folks that tried to run large carbureted and injected engines on junk fuel. Smaller engines are not so bad at least but for the price of a few gallons of gasoline??
Get rid of "questionable" fuel in your tank, boat fuel lines and all fuel lines under the engine cowling, replace with fresh and never look back! How'zat?
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