Educate me: Trolling motors

[KevinWI]

Have always been an oar man.....never had much need for a TM. One came with my boat, but the mount is actually for a kicker motor converted to a TM bow mount....but it obstructs my view. now that my build is nearing completion I'm thinking of getting a different trolling motor.....just not sure about what I need.

There are different thrusts. How am I to know what thrust I need? I fish rivers and flowages and have a 1648.
The motor on there now is a 42lb thrust manual...seems to pull it along fine.
There are different shaft lengths...I don't have a clue...until now I thought all TM's were the same length.
Foot control or manual.....I like fishing from the rear, but want the TM up front...do they make cable to be operated from the back?
I've heard of the remote control...but that is way beyond my budget.

Help me out.

Here's the TM mount...too big IMO

 

[KevinWI]

Found the following on https://alltrollingmotors.com...but if you have input, please feel free to add your .02.

When looking for a motor there are several important issues that always come up. In order to cover these issues we have put together this guide. We have covered many points such as saltwater, thrust, shafts, voltage, props, batteries, mounts and more! If you have anything else you think we should include then let us know.

We have posted answers to many questions below. Feel free to send us your question too!


Should I go with a bow or transom mount motor?

Bow mount motors offer very precise control. In the wind or on a river a bow mount motor will help you the most. The drawback of a bow mount motor is that most of them are more or less permanently mounted on your bow.

Transom mount motors are more versatile and can be moved easily from boat to boat. On a small craft like a canoe or row boat they can be used as the primary source of power.


How much thrust do I need?

In general you want to have as much thrust as possible for the times when you run into wind and current. The rule of thumb in choosing thrust is to take the total weight of the loaded boat and divide it by 70. For example, if your boat with people and gear weighs a total of 3500 lbs you will then divide that by 70. That means that ideally you should have a motor with at least 50 lbs. of thrust.

Motor Thrust Total Weight
30 lbs 2100 lbs
36 lbs 2520 lbs
40 lbs 2800 lbs
42 lbs 2940 lbs
44 lbs 3080 lbs
48 lbs 3360 lbs
50 lbs 3500 lbs
55 lbs 3850 lbs
65 lbs 4550 lbs
74 lbs 5180 lbs
101 lbs 7070 lbs

What type of steering should I choose?

First of all there are several types of steering to choose from. There is hand control, foot control, remote control, and even voice activated. Yes, that's right - voice activated. Believe it or not.

What it comes down to is your preferences and style of fishing. Some like the foot control because it allows for hands free control while fishing. While pulling in a big one you can maneuver your craft if necessary. If you are a no-frills type of person then hand control might be right for you. If you aren't a talker then I don't recommend a voice activated model. Fancy features aren't for everyone.


What length of shaft do I need?

First, that depends on whether you want a transom mounted motor or a bow mounted motor. If you go with a transom mounted motor then you need to know the distance from the transom to the waterline when your boat is loaded. You want to take that distance and add at least 20 inches to it. If there isn't a shaft in that size then round up. Let's say the distance is from the transom to the waterline is 10 inches. You then add 20 inches to that and the length of shaft you want is 30 inches.

If you want a bow mounted motor then you take the length from the top of the bow (where the motor would be mounted) to the waterline when the boat is loaded. You then add 20 inches to that number and then round up to the next longest shaft if you have to. So, if the distance from the bow to the water is 15 inches then you will add 20 inches to that. You come up with 35 inches but find that there is no motor for the brand you want with a 35 inch shaft. Therefore, all you have to do is round up to the 36 inch shaft. Simple, right?

Bow to Waterline Shaft Length
0-10 inches 30 inches
11-16 inches 36 inches
17-22 inches 42 inches
23-30 inches 50 inches
31-34 inches 54 inches

 

[atuck593]

Hey Kevin I am in the same boat you are figuratively speaking. I am looking for a new trolling motor myself. This is what I have learned from reading on here and my experience while fishing.

Thrust- The more lbs. of thrust the better, especially if you fish currents. I believe that you can go as high as 55lbs of thrust while still running a 12 volt (single battery) system. If you want more 60 - 101lbs of thrust you will need a 24 volt (2 batteries) or 36 volts (3 batteries).

Placement - Bow or Transom? I have a 50 lb Minn Kota Endura. When I had it on the transom it pushed the boat just ok. However, when I mounted it on the bow it pulled the boat and created a wake behind it. I guess they pull better than they push.

Length - I have a 14ft Starcraft Semi- V. My motor is a 48" shaft length model (it was cheaper) and it's plenty long for either bow or transom mount. When your boat is in the water, measure how far it is from the top of the deck to the water line. That will give you an idea for shaft length. I think Minn Kota recommends that the motor head should be in the water 9". Double check for your own research though.

Foot or Hand Control - That is up to you. This is just my opinion but when I mounted my motor up front I found it to be a pain to get into the water when I made it to my fishing spot. You had to lean pretty far forward (dangerous ) and loosten the screws to drop the motor in the water (noisy). Not to mention when I was fishing with someone I gave them the bow to fish from so I could operate the gas motor. They usually had no idea how to drop the TM into the water. I had to shift forward and move it myself (a real pain) as well as lean forward to steer with my hand (pain in the back). They make tiller extension handles but that won't reach to the back of the boat. Traditional cable steering foot control bow mount trolling motors I don't think will reach the back of your boat either.
I personally am looking into a Minn Kota Power Drive. Its a bow mount style TM that has an electric steering motor. The cord is 18' long, about the size of an extension cord, and will stretch to the back of the boat. They are a bit pricey (about $400 new) but you can find used ones on eBay or craigslist for around 150 - 200. I have heard that some guys don't like the electric steering because it is slower than the cable style, but I am willing to compromise because you can operate it from the back of the boat and still have the bow mount style TM.

This is just my opinion. I hope it helps you out a little bit. If anyone else has any ideas I am sure they will add to the thread.

 

[KevinWI]

I personally am looking into a Minn Kota Power Drive. Its a bow mount style TM that has an electric steering motor. The cord is 18' long, about the size of an extension cord, and will stretch to the back of the boat. They are a bit pricey (about $400 new) but you can find used ones on eBay or craigslist for around 150 - 200. I have heard that some guys don't like the electric steering because it is slower than the cable style, but I am willing to compromise because you can operate it from the back of the boat and still have the bow mount style TM.

This is just my opinion. I hope it helps you out a little bit. If anyone else has any ideas I am sure they will add to the thread.

I bought an Edge yesterday and canceled it today after thinking about it for a bit.
Bought a Minn Kota Power drive instead....the 18' electric foot control cord sold me...although I'm not crazy about the bow mounting system and the shaft is longer which makes making room for it a pain..... but I like to fish from the rear of the boat. Edge was a less expensive alternative, but it would be very inconvenient to have to fish from the front with my Humminbird setup in the back. $50 more, but worth it in the end. Got a good price on it.

 

[shawnfish]

I personally am looking into a Minn Kota Power Drive. Its a bow mount style TM that has an electric steering motor. The cord is 18' long, about the size of an extension cord, and will stretch to the back of the boat. They are a bit pricey (about $400 new) but you can find used ones on eBay or craigslist for around 150 - 200. I have heard that some guys don't like the electric steering because it is slower than the cable style, but I am willing to compromise because you can operate it from the back of the boat and still have the bow mount style TM.

This is just my opinion. I hope it helps you out a little bit. If anyone else has any ideas I am sure they will add to the thread.

I bought an Edge yesterday and canceled it today after thinking about it for a bit.
Bought a Minn Kota Power drive instead....the 18' electric foot control cord sold me...although I'm not crazy about the bow mounting system and the shaft is longer which makes making room for it a pain..... but I like to fish from the rear of the boat. Edge was a less expensive alternative, but it would be very inconvenient to have to fish from the front with my Humminbird setup in the back. $50 more, but worth it in the end. Got a good price on it.

the shafts are very easy to shorten for your needs...

 

[KevinWI]

afraid to ask.....how?

<<<edit>>> never mind.....a Minn Kota service shop near me will do it....and I don't have to worry about screwing it up.

 

[atuck593]

Kevin...

If you don't mind me asking, where did you order your Power Drive from? I am watching a few on eBay, but they are quickly becoming as expensive as buying a new one once shipping costs are added. Plus, the ones on eBay won't have a warranty and you don't exactly know why the person is getting rid of it.

As for cutting the shaft, I would take that to a certified service center....I would hate to void any warranty with something that expensive.

 

[KevinWI]

Kevin...

If you don't mind me asking, where did you order your Power Drive from? I am watching a few on eBay, but they are quickly becoming as expensive as buying a new one once shipping costs are added. Plus, the ones on eBay won't have a warranty and you don't exactly know why the person is getting rid of it.

As for cutting the shaft, I would take that to a certified service center....I would hate to void any warranty with something that expensive.

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Non member cost was $449.97
Member cost was $404.97
Membership fee: $29.99 (no brainer to get $45 off)
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Real savings $25.00
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Total cost including TM, membership and shipping: $444.45 plus they have a 4 payment system to break it into 1/4ths over 4 months interest free with a CC...auto billed to cc each month.

Missed out on free shipping....code ended on 2/11. Love this place...have ordered lots of stuff from it for good price and now with membership get xtra 10%off everything.....plus they also will send me two $10 off coupons with this order.
If you want coupon code for $10 off, PM me.

I'm lucky...biggest minnkota service center in WI is 20 miles away...called them and for $50 can get the shaft/wiring shortened and keep warranty.

 

[TNtroller]

might want to check out cabelas, I ordered a 55# Terrova from them last yr when they had a $5 S/H special, and it shipped for $5 to E TN. No damage either LOL>

 

[KevinWI]

Cabela's was $469 plus tax.....when I want to throw money out the window, I go to Cabelas...otherwise I shop for lowest price elsewhere....usually Amazon.com or Sportsmansguide.com has the lowest prices....and I also look for coupon codes too.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

If you plan to cut the shaft, make sure you leave enough so that the the motor is not all the way down. Doing that will make lifting to stowing position significantly harder. Having the collar down around 6" is a good rule of thumb.

 

[KevinWI]

If you plan to cut the shaft, make sure you leave enough so that the the motor is not all the way down. Doing that will make lifting to stowing position significantly harder. Having the collar down around 6" is a good rule of thumb.

Lets put it this way.....from the bow to the water is 16"......the minimum shaft length these come in is 48"....a little overkill, no?
I think the recommended shaft length is 20" more than the distance from the mount to the water surface...this should be enough for cavatation in high waves and for the 6" you mentioned. I was thinking of cutting it down to 42" from 48".

 

[FuzzyGrub]

If you plan to cut the shaft, make sure you leave enough so that the the motor is not all the way down. Doing that will make lifting to stowing position significantly harder. Having the collar down around 6" is a good rule of thumb.

Lets put it this way.....from the bow to the water is 16"......the minimum shaft length these come in is 48"....a little overkill, no?
I think the recommended shaft length is 20" more than the distance from the mount to the water surface...this should be enough for cavatation in high waves and for the 6" you mentioned. I was thinking of cutting it down to 42" from 48".

Since you have the motor, I wouldn't make any cuts before testing. With your boat fully loaded and only you in stearn, in the rough water, see what the minimum depth is to prevent cavitation at high thrust speeds. It may require something more than the "general" rule. Also, see how much difference there is in stowing with varying lengths above.

I have a 48" shaft on my 14' starcraft, and with just me in the back of the boat, I can cavitate in 2'ers, and will drop it down that last 6" or move to the bow, or both. Also, when fishing from the back, the higher the head is above the deck, the easier to see what direction it is pointed in. On powerdrive style trolling motors, you tend to forget what direction you left it in.

 

[KevinWI]

If you plan to cut the shaft, make sure you leave enough so that the the motor is not all the way down. Doing that will make lifting to stowing position significantly harder. Having the collar down around 6" is a good rule of thumb.

Lets put it this way.....from the bow to the water is 16"......the minimum shaft length these come in is 48"....a little overkill, no?
I think the recommended shaft length is 20" more than the distance from the mount to the water surface...this should be enough for cavatation in high waves and for the 6" you mentioned. I was thinking of cutting it down to 42" from 48".

Since you have the motor, I wouldn't make any cuts before testing. With your boat fully loaded and only you in stearn, in the rough water, see what the minimum depth is to prevent cavitation at high thrust speeds. It may require something more than the "general" rule. Also, see how much difference there is in stowing with varying lengths above.

I have a 48" shaft on my 14' starcraft, and with just me in the back of the boat, I can cavitate in 2'ers, and will drop it down that last 6" or move to the bow, or both. Also, when fishing from the back, the higher the head is above the deck, the easier to see what direction it is pointed in. On powerdrive style trolling motors, you tend to forget what direction you left it in.

sounds like sound advice. Thanks.

 

[Bob Landry]

I'm watching this thread with a lot of interest. While I have been in the marine business for over 15 years trolling motors is not one of my areas of expertise and I need to replace one.

I have a G3 CC DLX that I picked up on the coast. The boat had a lot of salt water blahs which I have remedied, all except the trolling motor, and it was beyone help. I don't know what the rig weighs. It's an 1860 with a 90 HP 2 stroke Yamaha. I've added a Fishmaster T-Top which I'm guestimating added around 100 lbs.

The TM that was on it was a MinnKota hand control 40lb motor. I don't have any idea if that TM was sized correctly for the boat, or if it was used because it was the cheapest G3 could go and wanted to offer it because of marketing, so I don't know if a 40lb thrust motor will be sufficient or not. You guys tell me. When it gets used, it will be for fishing around rock cliffs and bluffs on fresh water lakes, so current wouldn't be a factor, wind may be. So what I really need is something to troll with while I'm crappie and panfishing, and keep me off the rocks.
Hand or foot control? I don't have a clue. The foot control would be a convenient hands free way to do it, but is it really necessary? Given a specific price point, I can get more motor(power) by staying with a hand controlled motor. A have a fishing buddy that has a foot control and can't wait to get rid of it because he says the cord on the deck is a PITA, so I guess it's a matter of taste, again, I'm asking for opinions on that.
MinnKota or MororGuide... All the reviews point to MinnKota, parts are plentiful, but my buddy swears by MotorGuide, so again, personal preference?

So far, I'm looking at MinnKota and either the Edge(new) or the Power Drive V2, both in my price range and I have to decide on a 45 or 55 lb thrust motor. I assume tha bigger is better. The reason I'm looking at the PowerDrive is because it has the digital motor control which is supposed to help you get more time out of a charge, and if possible, I would like to be able to sthay with a single deep cycle battery. I would add a second battery if I need to. So many choices, so little time.

 

[KevinWI]

Based on all I read, the size of your boat and motor, I'd go at least 55. But I'm no expert....All my knowledge is based off of what I read.

 

[Bob Landry]

That's kinda the way I'm leaning unless someone comes up with a really cmpelling reason to go otherwise. I think I'l better off with more power and learn to love the hand control aspect of it. Really, how hard can it be to reach over and make a course adjustment by hand. LOL

 

[KevinWI]

That's kinda the way I'm leaning unless someone comes up with a really cmpelling reason to go otherwise. I think I'l better off with more power and learn to love the hand control aspect of it. Really, how hard can it be to reach over and make a course adjustment by hand. LOL

You'll regret it the first time you have a fish on and your hands are busy reeling it in and you either need to turn it off or move the boat while fighting the fish.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Bob,

Given that size boat, I'd say the minimum would be 55lb. Probably should consider the possibility of a 24V system.

The main advantage of a powerdrive type trolling motor is the flexibility of where you can be to control it. You are not tied to the trolling motor, such as a cable steer or hand steer. As you mentioned, all power type drives have PWM control which can be more efficient at lower speeds. With that, comes the possibility of electrical noise. Your ff may require isolation, chokes, or other remidies. Also, power type drives, be it MK or MG, tend to have more issues than the other two types.

The cable steer is preffered by the bass tx guys. It has quicker turning speed, and does not require visual looking at where the head unit is pointed. It doesn't require any hands so can keep fishing the whole time.

Hand steer is lowest cost, but does require you to stop fishing, and must stay in the bow.

As far as brands, MK tends to be more innovative and offer features MG doesn't. MG bundles allot with their Mercury line, so can offer boat mfgs very good deals.

 

[atuck593]

Bob,
First of all sorry about the long post, but I figured that maybe it would help you. I agree with what Fuzzy has said there are a lot of options out there and it is a matter of preference. I know you would like to keep one battery (12 volt system ). I fish tournaments with my neighbor and he has a Lund 19' Tournament Series Deep V. He has a ( 24 volt two battery system ) with a bow mount Minn Kota 70 lb thrust cable foot controled motor. The motor works great, but here's the thing. He only has it set at 55lbs of thrust. The full 70lbs works well when the water is rough and choppy but most days he has it dialed back at 55lbs because it isn't needed. The 55lbs would work for you if you still want to go that route. And I may be mistaken but 55lbs of thrust is the cut off for still being able to run off that 12 volt system. Any more thrust and you need another battery.

My suggestion would be look for some version of the bow mount option, either foot controlled cable, foot controlled electric steer, or bow mount tiller. You can get away with a 55lb thrust ( cheaper ) version with any of these mounted on the bow. From there it's just a matter of preference.

Personally, I am looking into a 45lb thrust Power Drive. Here is my reasoning, maybe it will help you. I like the ability to control the boat from the bow. I can fish there and it provides better boat control. I was spoiled with the foot control on my neighbors boat it freed up your hands to fish, but I constantly had to balance my foot while trying to control the boat with the cable steer. However, the electric steer the motor only moves when I press the pedal. The steering cable to the foot pedal is more flexible with the Power Drive compared to the bluky cable of the traditional style bow mount TM's. (Space is tight on a smaller boat.) It can be rolled up like an electric extention cord to save space on the bow, but yet stretch to the back of the boat if I wanted to fish from there. I often fish from the stern when I have someone with me (not much room to move around on the 14 footer with two or three people on board ) you need to fish from where you are. The long cable is helpful.

The only major downside to the Power Drive that I have read about compared to the traditional cable steer is the fact that the foot pedal has been known to act up from time to time and not work. Especially if it gets wet. I plan on buying the quick mount and store it in my basement to keep it out of the elements when not fishing to avoid this problem as well as buying new will bring a warranty with it too. The PD's are also know for a little bit slower turning ability compared to the faster turning of the cable steer style, but I think "slow" is just a matter of opinion. I don't plan on fishing that close to stumps and rocks to have to need that quick of reaction time.

Again, this is just my opinion and what I learned from my experience. Sorry again for having typed such a long novel.