Electrolysis pin holes

[justintr34]

I got a Lund Mr pike down to the bones and found some electrolysis on the side where the foam was. I wire brushed it and found it goes through the hull. Thoughts on fixing it? Is there a long term fix? I don’t want to spend a bunch of money on something that won’t last.

Thank you!!

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Welcome to TinBoats!

There have been a number of discussions on this issue. When I encountered it, it was where the wooden transom was in contact, above the water line. After cleaning, some marine epoxy on pin holes, used a couple coats of gluvit. The replaced transom wood was also sealed with gluvit. It has been a few years and have not seen any signs of "new" spots or leaks.

Hard to tell from the pictures how extensive yours is or if it is all above the water line. Might be able to rivet in a "backer patch" of aluminum. Others that have dealt with something similar will guide ou better than i can.

 

[justintr34]

Welcome to TinBoats!

There have been a number of discussions on this issue. When I encountered it, it was where the wooden transom was in contact, above the water line. After cleaning, some marine epoxy on pin holes, used a couple coats of gluvit. The replaced transom wood was also sealed with gluvit. It has been a few years and have not seen any signs of "new" spots or leaks.

Hard to tell from the pictures how extensive yours is or if it is all above the water line. Might be able to rivet in a "backer patch" of aluminum. Others that have dealt with something similar will guide ou better than i can.

Thanks for the reply! It is below the water line and does have a few pin holes that go all the way through.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

How big of an area does it cover?

 

[justintr34]

How big of an area does it cover?

I would guess about 6" x 8-10".

 

[justintr34]

If there is not a super solid fix, I would rather cut my losses now then dump a lot of money into it rebuilding it. I have the boat torn all the way down.
View attachment IMG_8252.mov

 

[FuzzyGrub]

If the area "feels" strong and there are only a few pin holes, I see others that recommend just drilling them out and adding solid rivets. I'd still seal the inside.

 

[DaleH]

If indeed just pin holes, I'd prep, vinegar wash, prime (and too bad we can't use 2-part epoxy-based Zinc Chromate any longer ...) and then apply West Systems G-Flex 650 (as it's flexible) or Steel Flex. Note any epoxy product like this MUST be painted over to protect it from UV exposure.

I did that on a tin hull, used in saltwaters no less, and it's still going strong ...

 

[justintr34]

okay! thank you! I guess if I rebuild it and it gets worse I can patch it.

 

[DaleH]

I had it on the bottom, from the boat resting on the carpet bunks that were immersed in saltwater every time she was dunked. I learned my lesson there and added vinyl gutter material over my carpeted bunks.

 

[mbullen]

Some solutions include a number of two-part marine epoxies, marine JB Weld, riveted scab patch backbuttered with 3m 5200, etc.
If previously covered with wood for some reason, avoid treated materials when rebuilding.
Consider adding a sacrificial anode to the hull.

 

[DaleH]

Consider adding a sacrificial anode to the hull.

Good point, here's a post with pictures on adding anode: https://www.tinboats.net/threads/adding-a-zinc-anode-to-a-tin-boat-for-saltwater-use.39331/

NOTE there are 3 different anode types available - zinc, aluminum, or magnesium. So choose the right one for your use. A good source to buy these is www.boatzincs.com, as they sell all 3 materials in all sizes and shapes.

Mil-Spec Zinc is the traditional anode choice for saltwater vessels.

Mil-Spec Aluminum anodes are for use in all types of water: Salt, Brackish, and Fresh. They are an alternative to zinc anodes as they are 1) more active, 2) provide better self-cleaning performance, and 3) offer a longer service life. They are preferred for protecting vessels with marine grade aluminum underwater metals.

Mil-Spec Magnesium anodes are the best choice for fresh water vessels (only).