help with pre-buy checklist for 1974 16' Sea Nymph

[iam2sam]

Hello. I'm in coastal NJ, recently retired. Most recently I have been using a Michicraft T-15 square stern canoe with a 3 HP Gamefisher. It's a pretty good little set-up, but has obvious limitations. For a number of reasons, I'm looking to move up a bit in size, to 14-16' semi-V or V. Intended use will be river, salt creek, and limited open bay/inlet fishing. I have found a 1974 16' Sea Nymph (exact model currently unknown) for sale with trailer and a 40 HP Mercury for what seems to me to be a very reasonable asking price. The (alleged) story on this boat is that the seller's father bought it new when he lived near the shore, used it a few times, then was transferred to a inland location. The boat was garaged (in 1975) and never used again until this year, by the son who inherited it. The son swapped the 6 HP Evinrude Fisherman that it was equipped with for a 40 HP decent used Mercury, took it out once, and scared himself (he claims to be used to much larger boats). So, if this story is true, the boat has nearly zero water hours. I'm planning to look at it tomorrow evening. Thanks to several years spent in aluminum canoes (I've had a couple of Grummans in addition to the Michicraft) I have a fairly good idea what to look for in general terms when evaluating an aluminum boat. What I could use some help with are any items specific to Sea Nymphs of similar vintage that I might overlook, and anything that would be specific to a boat that was barely used, then stored indoors for 40 years. Any tips on how to verify (or disprove) the alleged use and/or storage history by examining the boat would be very useful as well. Thanks in advance for any help or tips.

SAM

 

[iam2sam]

So, a follow-up in case someone wants to comment... I saw the boat Wednesday evening in relatively low light. It is a Sea Nymph Coho 16. I had a couple of items wrong about the history in my OP - 90% sure I misinterpreted what the seller had said over phone. Original owner purchased boat and Tee Nee trailer new in Ohio in 1974, and used boat on freshwater a few times, then was transferred to inland NJ. Boat was then garaged for ~40 years. Current owner bought it intending to use it for fishing, but then decided he really wanted a larger boat. Before he made that decision, he bought another boat with a running 40 HP Mercury 2-stroke for the motor, built up (raised) the Sea Nymph transom to accomodate a long shaft motor, and put in a center console to be run from the rear bench. As far as I could tell in the limited lighting, the boat is in the condition one would expect given the claimed history - like new. The seller is asking $850. Although I will examine the boat again in broad daylight before I make an offer, I'm pretty confident in the condition of the boat and trailer. Since seller only test ran the current motor on the old boat before he transplanted it (in fact, he has never had the Sea Nymph in the water, so it has never seen salt) and there is neither battery nor controls, the motor is a big question mark. I'm thinking if I can convince him to take $750, I'd be assured of a pretty good deal even if the motor is a total loss. Anyone have an opinion on that, or other advice? Thanks in advance.

 

[DaleH]

NADA only had model back to 1976 where they put the retail value more than he's asking, so it might be a wash if the OB is crap or a really, really good deal if the motor is ideal! See valuation. Now where I'm from ... boats usually sell for 20 to 40% more than the NADA values, from my experience.

Concerns -

OB - Was that stored or run? Personally I'd go for a used but cared for motor over one that hasn't been run in a long time. Assess or determine the use, but at a minimum replace the waterpump and thermostat (if equipped, as some Merc 40hps use a therm switch you don't need to change out).

Be prepared for carb cleaning or such if not stored properly using stabilized fuel, E10 or not.

Hull - I''d really assess how good a job they PO did on raising the transom. It can work when done well ... can be a nightmare if not.

As far as leaks, if nothing else, fill the boat with water! FWIW a friend looked at a boat last weekend and I told him I'd go with him. He goes by himself and likes what he sees and calls me and tells me it looks mint, he's buying it. I told him don't be so hasty and to FILL IT with water first ... it leaked like a sieve! Leaks all over, yet the hull "looked mint" for all appearances. So he had to walk ...

Other - So ... are you handy and can do the repairs or work needed? Can you hook up the controls yourself? Is there any harness with that 40hp OB? If you can't do these things yourself ... you really need a full list to know what you're getting into ...

It could be a deal, a steal, or a small money pit ...

 

[bonz_d]

Hello,
Missed this post earlier. IMO he is asking a fair price even w/o any known history. Here in the Wisconsin area that Merc is worth anywhere from $50.00 to $700.00 depending on year and condition but generally between $400.00 to $600.00 in running condition. Do you know what year it is?

The boat and trailer even w/o an engine is also easily worth $400.00 to $800.00 depending on condition. I paid $450.00 this summer for a 1984 Sea Nymph 144 Pike Attacker that someone started working on and didn't have an engine. You can see it here, https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=39165

The one thing that I am aware of with the older Sea Nymphs is cracking around the rivets in the ribs. Otherwise from what I'm experiencing is that they are pretty well built and easy to do repairs on

As long as there are no big holes or major dents I'd certainly take a chance if I was looking for that size/style boat.

 

[iam2sam]

Follow-up: Purchased the boat this morning. Asked the seller if he would separate the motor from the deal, but he was unwilling. I did get the price reduced to $750. Boat was uncovered and full of rainwater nearly up to minimum WL with no evidence of leaks. Boat is dirty, but condition appears consistent with the alleged history. No sign of any pitting or even much "standard" aluminum oxidation (unpainted) anywhere. NJ title says boat is actually a 1973. The s/n is not in standard HIN format (B93145446411636), so that seems plausible. It still has an Ohio registration number and sticker, so at least part of the story is corroborated. Seller claims he raised transom by bridging a piece of 2 x 6 in the existing opening with bracing, then covered with SS sheet metal attached with SS screws. I plan to dismantle that shortly so that I can see exactly what he did. My tenative plan is to revert to the short shaft transom if I get rid of the Mercury (likely). The motor is a bit sketchy. Seller claims it is a 2-cylinder 40 HP, but the serial number is OB272613? (there should be a 7th numeral, but I can't make it out). According to the tables I found on-line, that would seem to be a 1969 35 HP, however, perhaps there was a transition to the 40 HP serial numbers that isn't captured in the tables (apparently the 40 HP 2-cyl debuted in 1970...) The cover says "40 HP"... The starter bracket casting is cracked, but the owner previous to the seller made an "overhead" bracket from about 9-in of steel strap that seems to be doing the job. We got the motor to turn over but not start because there seems to be an intermittent short in the battery cables, which are taped together (seller has never had the boat or motor in the water). There is no battery, so we were jumping from his truck. Didn't turn over fast enough for a compression check. My current plan for the motor is to invest a modest amount of effort into getting it running. If I can do that, I'll sell it in the Spring. I plan to look for an OMC 25 - 40 HP (short shaft - see above) 2-stroke from the same era as the boat. I also plan on removing the seller's home-built center console, and either going with a side console or reverting to tiller control (I'm a big fan of simplicity). I will follow with pics after I remove the leaves and acorns (gotta love squirrels - my canoe is full of black walnuts every morning) and run it through the car wash...

Thanks for the advice!

P.S., the Tee-Nee trailer is as unused as the boat, but is already beginning to acquire a patina of surface rust. I plan to launch in brackish water most of the time. Is there something I can do to make the trailer more corrosion resistent if I take care of it now, or should I just plan on it rusting to bits over the next few years?

 

[Johnny]

I plan to dismantle that shortly so that I can see exactly what he did

That is a good plan for every thing you bought from this guy.

Brackish water will definitely hasten the rust factor on the trailer.
Several options - depends strictly on your time available and budget.
Just do the search for "painting a trailer"
good luck in your new rig !!

https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/



.

 

[bonz_d]

Nice. I'll be looking forward to seeing what you bought.

I've run a 1994 30hp remote on my Sea Nymph and it's performed well with it. Shows plenty of power. I'm partial to OMC outboards.

Is that trailer a tube design or C channel?

 

[iam2sam]

Pics:

 

[user 20022]

Man that's a great deal! Nice tin!

 

[bonz_d]

Certainly a nice score. Well worth the price.
Trailer doesn't look as bas as I imagined. A little paint and good to go.

iam2, I'm not certain from the pictures but that transom looks to be original height..

 

[iam2sam]

Re transom: pics are a little deceiving in that respect. From a slightly lower angle, a tiny bit of the original transom curve can be seen under the SS sheet added by the PO. When I take that apart, should the original transom be topped with an aluminum cap of its own, or just expose wood sandwiched between aluminum sheet?

Re: trailer, my very first item of business is to replace the tires. The sidewalls are in exactly the condition you might expect from a rig that sat loaded in one position for 40 years - not pretty. I may try to sell/trade/swap for a galvanized trailer come spring, if I can find someone looking for this specific vintage for freshwater use.

Certainly a nice score. Well worth the price.
Trailer doesn't look as bas as I imagined. A little paint and good to go.

iam2, I'm not certain from the pictures but that transom looks to be original height..

 

[iam2sam]

Motor seems to be a bit of mystery meat. It's badged 40 HP, but the serial number (found in 2 places on the motor, so likely correct) indicates it's a 1988 35 HP. Also, the s/n equates to a rope start model (model number beginning with "M") but this motor has electric start and no rope or obvious evidence of a previous rope starter).

Hello,
Missed this post earlier. IMO he is asking a fair price even w/o any known history. Here in the Wisconsin area that Merc is worth anywhere from $50.00 to $700.00 depending on year and condition but generally between $400.00 to $600.00 in running condition. Do you know what year it is?

The boat and trailer even w/o an engine is also easily worth $400.00 to $800.00 depending on condition. I paid $450.00 this summer for a 1984 Sea Nymph 144 Pike Attacker that someone started working on and didn't have an engine. You can see it here, https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=39165

The one thing that I am aware of with the older Sea Nymphs is cracking around the rivets in the ribs. Otherwise from what I'm experiencing is that they are pretty well built and easy to do repairs on

As long as there are no big holes or major dents I'd certainly take a chance if I was looking for that size/style boat.

 

[bonz_d]

Agree that pictures can be deceiving. You'll have to post some up as you take it apart cause it will be interesting to see what they did. What changes were made.

I suppose you could leave the top of the transom wood uncovered as long as it's sealed well though I would cover it to help keep the water out and to help protect it from bangs and dings which would allow water to penetrate. You can look at what I did with my Sea Nymph. On a lot of the old boats they used a pcs. of wood on the outside of the transom as a motor mount cushion. It helps protect the aluminum and reduces motor vibration to the boat.

For the trailer, a good cleaning, a coat of paint and repacking the bearings for sure and as you stated 2 new tires. Check the keel rollers and bunk boards. Cleaned up that trailer should fetch a few hundred bucks if you're inclined to find a galvanized or aluminum one to replace it. Or just keep it and rinse it down after each trip.

Have you tried running that Merc yet? If that is a 1988 35hp it's not a bad little engine. A lot of times folks like us will take 2 engines and make one good runner. Which is what they could have done here with the electric start that is on it. The OMC guys do that a lot. So try and run it and see what it sounds like.

Again, good luck.