OK, so.....I was mid project on my last boat when we moved halfway across the country from North Carolina to Nebraska. I decided I didn't want to lug a half done project out here. (Really wish I had, but oh well). So a couple days ago i picked up a new tinny. 1967 crestline, super seaman. 14ft 56"wide (top) v hull. Very nice and clean with an 88' Johnson 9.9 with electric start that runs flawlessly. Water test went great, way more stable than I had thought it would be. Motor even got her up on a plane! So, everything is basically cosmetic. First step was to move the battery and gas tank to the front. Then I removed the middle bench, I know I know, structure, flotation..... Blah blah, I'm taking care of that too.
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Looks like a nice & clean rig, w/ e-start to boot. Good luck with it!
If a saltwater boat, I would advise putting back in some kind of superstructure report to prevent the bow from bending back over on herself ... but last I knew, Nebraska was a loooooooong way from any salt pond :wink: . So you should be fine.
Looks like you'll have some fun with it, plus the excitement and adventure of exploring new-to-you waters and fisheries.
If a saltwater boat, I would advise putting back in some kind of superstructure report to prevent the bow from bending back over on herself ... but last I knew, Nebraska was a loooooooong way from any salt pond :wink: . So you should be fine.
Looks like you'll have some fun with it, plus the excitement and adventure of exploring new-to-you waters and fisheries.
Yes...I plan on adding a small floor where the bench seat is and will add a good bit of bracing there with foam underneath. I can't imagine the small deck I want to add with throw the weight off too much. I can practical dance around on the bench seats as is so a couple 2x2 braces and 1/2 ply shouldn't do too much to it. I'll update with some pics later today.
OK, started with some mods. Removed the bench seat. Nice large open space, it's ribbed for support and I plan on adding more with a floor and some angle braces where the left over supports are coming out of the side. Foam will be added under floor. I'm not too worried about flexing because there are still 3 benches in there, plus I'm only running a 9.9. Next, instead of a full deck I'm only bracing between the front two seats and adding a section on 3/4 ply to fill the void. Bracing is done with 2x2. Not worried about treated here because it's only touching wood. The gap in the front will be left open for access to the anchor and rope. The hatch will allow for life vest and such. I've moved the battery and gas to the front so the entire back is left wide open (used 4ga wire for both cranking and tm if you were wondering. Going to fish this setup this weekend and see where I want to go from here!
A nice 3 hours on the lake today. Shifting some weight forward she'll get on a plane and cruise comfortably at 15mph. I don't think that's too bad for a 9.9. Zero flex with the bench seat removed. It came with a large metal omc 6 gallon gas tank. I think I'm going to get rid of that and get a smaller plastic 3 gallon tank. Most of the local lakes are 5mph/zero wake so I don't need a speed demon or a lot of gas. Should have time tomorrow to get the wood cut to fit between the remaining front benches. The seat I put on is to high and sketchy, going to put a floor in and move it down and forward about a foot.
Just finished cutting the wood, pop it in place and it's Rock solid without any additional bracing! Now....I know better, so yes I'm going to put 2 more braces just because.... But it's going to leave me more open space! Glad I decided to go this route instead of completely decking over the whole thing, and I didn't at 15lbs to the boat! Going to water test this in the morning and then get to painting the wood inside
Just scored a 4 gang switch panel on eBay for $8. I'll be running a bilge pump, a couple of LED lights, navigation lights and MAYBE a small stereo system on the switch panel. I also have a Lowrance elite 4hdi, but that has a separate fuse so no need to run that through the switch panel. I have a separate 30ah battery to run all that and I have a big one for cranking and trolling motor. Plan on being pretty meticulous on my wiring using circuit breakers, bus bar, the works.
A little early, but thinking of paint. And right now question it cleaning up and re painting the motor. Here are a couple pics, wondering what would be the best way to clean up and paint the motor. It runs extremely well, very clean under the hood
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So....I can't believe that somehow the deck is more stable than walking around on the floor... Any reason/ideas there? Anyhow, going to have to replace the trolling motor, shaft is about 3 inches too short. I'll also wire in a Bigfoot switch on the deck...I like tiller over for controlled. Then, I have a second Lowrance unit to put on the tm up front. Other then that I don't plan on many more mods this year, only 2 months before things start to ice up
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So today I've been thinking, since that deck seems to be so much more stable, I think I'm going to put the bench i removed back in, and extend the deck back in the same manor I did the front. It'll put the foam back in and give me another storage hatch. Still plan on keeping everything to a minimum, but originally I was excited about the larger floor, now not so much. And I'll feel better about putting a larger motor on her in the future.
Looking good!
OB Painting - I just use suitable rattle can color paint, making sure to sand and prime as needed. There are a TON of nooks and crannies when painting a motor, so focus on them first. Many thin coats rule! Once all thoe are suitable covered, then go for the big pieces.
I had a cowling that was all roughed up and filled the dents with Bondo, sanded smooth, repainted with color and it looks almost new! Or at least newer. Have since learned on my latest motor (learned the trick here ...) to top-coat the color paint with many THIN coats of clear gloss. Where my skiff is left out on a mooring, in the full sun 24/7 at least when there is sun, I invested in a $20 canvas motor cover and man the OB still looks great! Prevents sun/UV damage/fading to the paint, at least on the cowling.
Deck/Floor Stability - Your deck seems more stable as it was supported by the superstructure you put in place. I like the idea of a big area LOW floor, but can see why you'd want to extend that front deck. On your existing floor, you're stepping on the skin and ribs that were designed to flex ... that's what you're feeling. If too rigid, the rivets or welds will break, rather than 'move'.
OB Painting - I just use suitable rattle can color paint, making sure to sand and prime as needed. There are a TON of nooks and crannies when painting a motor, so focus on them first. Many thin coats rule! Once all thoe are suitable covered, then go for the big pieces.
I had a cowling that was all roughed up and filled the dents with Bondo, sanded smooth, repainted with color and it looks almost new! Or at least newer. Have since learned on my latest motor (learned the trick here ...) to top-coat the color paint with many THIN coats of clear gloss. Where my skiff is left out on a mooring, in the full sun 24/7 at least when there is sun, I invested in a $20 canvas motor cover and man the OB still looks great! Prevents sun/UV damage/fading to the paint, at least on the cowling.
Deck/Floor Stability - Your deck seems more stable as it was supported by the superstructure you put in place. I like the idea of a big area LOW floor, but can see why you'd want to extend that front deck. On your existing floor, you're stepping on the skin and ribs that were designed to flex ... that's what you're feeling. If too rigid, the rivets or welds will break, rather than 'move'.
Put the removed bench seat and then braced and added another piece of ply in the same manor. Again, very solid, didn't add more than 15lbs to the boat. Next plan is to build a small electronics box with my switch panel mounted, a bus bar and it'll hold my smaller deep cycle battery that'll power my lights, bilge and possibly a stereo added next year. I got the trolling motor mounted to the side just how I like it, so I'm just going to wire in a Bigfoot switch. I'll coat the decks with the rustoleum resurfaced I got for $10. I plan to do a full strip down and nice paint job next spring
OK, this weekend is going to be the painting. Plan is to power wash, use vinegar to clean, then use a rustoleum clean metal primer, then rustoleum smoke gray for the bottom 2/3rds and then rustoleum royal blue for the top. Will spray a flat black on the inside and coat all my wood in the deck product I got. Main question is how much paint will I need for this boat? I was thinking 1qt of each?
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