Zinc Anode Info: They say a picture is worth a 1,000 words, so I’ll be brief. Quite simply I don’t paint or I remove the paint where I’ll affix a common ‘rudder’ zinc to the hull.
For a zinc anode to work correctly, it must be in full contact with bare, clean metal. I drilled out, then wet out the wood transom core with thin epoxy, then imbedded a SS threaded-insert into the wood using thickened epoxy once the thin stuff had ‘kicked’ (tacky, i.e., starting to cure). This makes sure that the 2 epoxy layers chemically bond with each other, making a stronger junction, and albeit a waterproof one to boot!
Then I just affix the rudder zinc with a short SS bolt, gooped up well (bolt threads only) with marine synthetic water-resistant grease, e.g., OMC/Bombardier ‘Triple Guard’ grease.
Simple and it works 8) !
For a zinc anode to work correctly, it must be in full contact with bare, clean metal. I drilled out, then wet out the wood transom core with thin epoxy, then imbedded a SS threaded-insert into the wood using thickened epoxy once the thin stuff had ‘kicked’ (tacky, i.e., starting to cure). This makes sure that the 2 epoxy layers chemically bond with each other, making a stronger junction, and albeit a waterproof one to boot!
Then I just affix the rudder zinc with a short SS bolt, gooped up well (bolt threads only) with marine synthetic water-resistant grease, e.g., OMC/Bombardier ‘Triple Guard’ grease.
Simple and it works 8) !